Another option I have read is to connect the amp up to the "not measured" drivers, and feed the amp No Signal. That way the Not Measured drivers will be reacting (or not) the same/similar way they would with music.You also need to short the terminals of drivers your not measuring.
Or said another way, if the amp can control the Not Measured driver then it won't show a difference in the measurements, but if it can Not control the driver the measuring with the driver shorted could/would give inaccurate measurements.
that's my understanding anyway.
Before i start to modify the new throat, i was interested in the raw frequency response of the "tweeter" and i am very happy with it 😉
It's measured 40cm in front of the mouth.
It seems, that i could start lower then 500Hz. What do you think? And keep in mind: just home, not pa 😉
Christian
I have moved the port a little bit forward, that it should fit for 400Hz at diaphragm. If I can go higher in crossover… fine 😉
That CD response looks very nice.Before i start to modify the new throat, i was interested in the raw frequency response of the "tweeter" and i am very happy with it 😉
It's measured 40cm in front of the mouth.
It seems, that i could start lower then 500Hz. What do you think? And keep in mind: just home, not pa 😉
Christian
I like to take the response of the CD like that too, before adding any ports into the horn, to find out how much adding the ports effects reponse.
As low as your CD/horn go, you have room to play quite a bit with xover frequency. Although that said, I've found I like crossing to CD in the 700-900 Hz range, even when I could easily go down to 500Hz or lower. Just something we have to play with ime/imo.
I know folks often talk about only needing SPL for home use, not PA, with these things.
But I think that kind of misses the boat.
For me, I like PA SPL capability not nearly as much for the high average SPL, but for the cleanliness it guarantees at home listening levels....including full headroom for transients.
I believe that's why I end up crossing CDs higher than they can go down to.
Because I think anytime we lower excursion by high-passing a little higher (and automatically decreasing bandwidth some),
we make for both a cleaner (and louder) system.
just sounds a bit clearer to me.....
mmmhhh....
Big difference in the tweeter after making the ports at 900Hz ;(
Bass: i would say, something i could work with.
To me it seems, that its maybe better, to move the ports more to the mouth. first notch is at 2,5kHz. This will maybe also make less trouble in the tweeter?
My problem: no experience what is a good result including the ports 😉
Any comment is welcome!!!
Thx a lot.
Big difference in the tweeter after making the ports at 900Hz ;(
Bass: i would say, something i could work with.
To me it seems, that its maybe better, to move the ports more to the mouth. first notch is at 2,5kHz. This will maybe also make less trouble in the tweeter?
My problem: no experience what is a good result including the ports 😉
Any comment is welcome!!!
Thx a lot.
Because this is a project without experience, i only have one speaker for the moment... but sounds already promising!
At the moment the mids are open... but will try closed as well!
I have to tweak the frequency response... because this is jut roughly done in one hour, i am sure there is space for improvement 😉
EQ's are just IIR, not FIR and i have tried to avoid to many of them.
And what's definitely need's to be done: thicken the rest of the horn... 😉
At the moment the mids are open... but will try closed as well!
I have to tweak the frequency response... because this is jut roughly done in one hour, i am sure there is space for improvement 😉
EQ's are just IIR, not FIR and i have tried to avoid to many of them.
And what's definitely need's to be done: thicken the rest of the horn... 😉
How thick is the normal Horn?
Maybe for homelevels bitumen will work as damping, too.
Do you use conefiller? The response of mids is not perfect maybe that helps or the closed back.
Maybe for homelevels bitumen will work as damping, too.
Do you use conefiller? The response of mids is not perfect maybe that helps or the closed back.
What is conefiller? PhasePlug? No.
Thickness: I would say less them 5mm… just the original GFK from EV
Maybe double walls and sand filling?!
Thickness: I would say less them 5mm… just the original GFK from EV
Maybe double walls and sand filling?!
I am freaking out…
Now the FaitalPRO 5PR160, 8 ohm is out of stock…
Any idea where could get 4… quick?
Or 8 peace’s as replacement?
Thx
Now the FaitalPRO 5PR160, 8 ohm is out of stock…
Any idea where could get 4… quick?
Or 8 peace’s as replacement?
Thx
In Germany Adam Hall has no stock so it's nearly impossible to get some in germany.
Maybe a cheap replacement is the Dayton pa130-16 until you get 4 more faital.
Maybe a cheap replacement is the Dayton pa130-16 until you get 4 more faital.
Use a cone filler Something Like this.
And Experiment with the exit-form.
How is the distortion at this Point? Maybe you have refelctions.
And Experiment with the exit-form.
How is the distortion at this Point? Maybe you have refelctions.
OK! But would this help for the tweeter?
I thought it's just to flatten the midrange.. but would make the system also better 😉
Will try!
I thought it's just to flatten the midrange.. but would make the system also better 😉
Will try!
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