It's marked C1. That should make it an SST111. The MMBFJ111 was used in some of the amps. It was marked 6P.
That axial resistor the one that got hot do you happen to know which value they used in the Amplifer? My is so hot the colors are faded. I call mtx Tom was pretty rude and didn't wanna release any values for the part. His return was "it's like going to restaurant asking for the recipe."
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Try MTX again and get someone else. They have always given this information in the past.
What does it read in ohms?
What does it read in ohms?
called them again they said that they no longer release that information due to the fact they no longer have a repairs facility. they just simply doing exchange and they no longer authorized repairs. Will post what it's reading in 2 hrs. Away from my home right now.
A similar amp uses 10k, 2w.
If you replace it, using a larger resistor with leads left long are less likely to melt the solder.
If you use a 10k, confirm that the voltage at the opto-couplers remains constant during operation.
If you replace it, using a larger resistor with leads left long are less likely to melt the solder.
If you use a 10k, confirm that the voltage at the opto-couplers remains constant during operation.
Got it all put back together. As soon I hook up the remote wire with a subwoofer to the amp. The sub is playing a very load tone and it push the subwoofer almost to full exersion.with no RCA hook up too the amp thermal and short light is flickering with a weird clicking noise coming from amp
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Also the amp is pull extremely high amount of amperage. I hook the amp up to a car battery. My power supply was turning off when the remote wire was applied. With the car battery. The positive wire was getting hot. the too inductors inside the amp by the power connection was super hot so was the heat sink. Amp was only contacted for 1 mins Max. Then of course a load bang came from the amp. Plus some smoke. I used the old output fets.
Did you check all of the outputs for leakage before reinstalling them?
Did you check the drive signals before reinstalling the outputs (after reinstalling the opto-couplers but before reinstalling the large 220 ohm resistor)?
At each step, after installing the outputs, you need to confirm that a load on the speaker terminals easily (no significant current draw) pulls down any DC on the speaker terminals.
Did you check the drive signals before reinstalling the outputs (after reinstalling the opto-couplers but before reinstalling the large 220 ohm resistor)?
At each step, after installing the outputs, you need to confirm that a load on the speaker terminals easily (no significant current draw) pulls down any DC on the speaker terminals.
Yep I just fought 4 bad fets plus 4 burnt gate resistor. Just pick up the new one will replace them tonight
I will double check the drive signal before installing the new fets.
The large resistor your referring to is R4111?
I will double check the drive signal before installing the new fets.
The large resistor your referring to is R4111?
All the output fets have been replace. Four of the fets was bad. Along with gate resistors. Now I'm getting -106.00 DC at the speaker terminal with no load. Amp pulls 3.5 amp at idle. With a put a 4 ohm load on the speaker terminal(subwoofer) it push the cone fully up and the amp drain shoots throw the roof. Have the current set to 25 max. The resistor that was silicone to the board starts to smoke from and getting so hot with no load.
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If the op-amp has pin 6 connected to R4111, it's going to get hot.
Did you remove any of those diodes to check them? That's a lot of diodes to have open. The part number is printed on them ES2D.
Did you remove any of those diodes to check them? That's a lot of diodes to have open. The part number is printed on them ES2D.