Maybe. I know that Gryphon uses them. I think on the Duelund website are some makers mentioned that use them. I can send a photo next week.
ah yes, Joachim now I understand, the temperature compensation... yes it is especially very important with loudspeakers, they will change a lot when played loud end get warm and the filter wont work anymore as the are supposed to if no compensation are designed in.
Now my memory may be little bit rusty but I have a memory there are resistor wire you can buy and there are different types of temperature coefficients, so one can make temperature compensating resistors to incorporate in the cross over filter for loudspeakers from these wires.
One loudspeaker designer do that I know since very long time back.
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So by having to keep your shielded L element in a separate box even, so to minimize harmonic noise, the distance and cabling involved aren't of some concern for it being a possibly counter productive arrangement in the detail department? I mean does it worth the hassle over a tightly laid out Shinkoh resistor and a Teflon cap for instance in an RC RIAA filter?
Yes, resistors are not that simple as it seems. I can show you resitors that lift the sonund in the midle of the soundstage by 2 meters. It´s weird.
Well, to put them in a seperate box ( i call that DOCK) i can change type and value of the coil. I found i could tweek the circuit in AudioXpress to a better result with a defferent value of the coil. Sorry i do momentarily not show all details i am working on but you are right, that should not be the final arrangement. Anyway, i am quite surprised how much trouble i got with hum.
Surely the choke does not sport analogous DCR that a resistor would, so to up the noise in the lows where you use your inductance, and I would expect some better differentiation of the fundamentals with your copious and expensive LCR version. Did you feel something worthwhile in that direction?
What are your preferred resistors, for cart loading and Riaa filters BTW? Talking subjectively of course.
There is a certain clarity in the whole midrange , say from 180 - 4000Hz that sounds like more looking then hearing. it´s hard to discribe. it is not sharp or agressive but kind of "architectural". Not from stone but from a hard wood like oack. It´s very exiting and new to me so i am dedicated to solve the mysthery of the coil, so to say.
Why not the feeling continue in lower? Maybe still smothered by some residual harmonic noise with a 50Hz fundamental and 150Hz product?
Best: Charcroft naked foil, tremendous speed and safety the same time.
second: Dale RS55 antimagnetic, neutral, extremely good value
Also kind of best but very different: antimagnetic Tantal resistors, sweet like honey but transparent the same time, one of the secrets of the Essex equaliser.
There are other new types that claim more or less the same perfor,mance then the Dale i did not try. I plan to try the new Caddocks with very close tolerances and low temperature dependency. I forgot the name, maybe UHP or something.
second: Dale RS55 antimagnetic, neutral, extremely good value
Also kind of best but very different: antimagnetic Tantal resistors, sweet like honey but transparent the same time, one of the secrets of the Essex equaliser.
There are other new types that claim more or less the same perfor,mance then the Dale i did not try. I plan to try the new Caddocks with very close tolerances and low temperature dependency. I forgot the name, maybe UHP or something.
Yes Salas, i think it is the hum that i still have. The lows should sound better too with the coil because of lower Johnson noise there. It is only 8 Ohm in my case compared to the 100 to 500 Ohm i see often.
The Shinkoh does the transparent honey trick best, sadly defunct and NOS stock prices rising. I like the Dale too. The PRP is analogous and the new REY Takman is noticeable to test too.
Yes, thoose are the two (PRP and Takman) i got attracted too. There was a review of an english man that tried resistors and found also the Charcroft best and liked the Mills second best. I think they are not better or worth then the Dale. Much better then Dale and it´s gets exotic and VERY expensive but i do not mind. A single expensive component in DIY is still cheaper then a fat frontplate in High End.
I have used the PRP and the Takman carbon REX so far. The PRP I find a bit cleaner but cooler than the Dale. The REX better than the KIWAME, but still slightly of a ''loudness button'' as all carbon.
So now you need the Takman metal film as all the others where not better then the Dale. They are quite persistent that Dales. When they whould not be from england i whould think they are from Japan. I asked my japanese friend: what is typical for japanese ? He said : "Resisting, Insisting, Persisting"
Not to start talking about special cones prices.Never a truer word was spoke!😀
