71BDF30-01-2-AJN | Grayhill, Inc. 71BDF30-01-2-AJN Stock available from Infinity-Component.hk | 71BDF30-01-2-AJN with Best Price at Infinity-Component.hk
This one is different in one letter (no F), don't know what it means.
https://www.newark.com/grayhill/71b...y4bYRJiJjKVoIr6Kb333H4yOon_kx8ORoCzbIQAvD_BwE
This one is different in one letter (no F), don't know what it means.
https://www.newark.com/grayhill/71b...y4bYRJiJjKVoIr6Kb333H4yOon_kx8ORoCzbIQAvD_BwE
Last edited:
I ordered a cheap textbook from India about 3 years ago. It got from India to Pittsburgh Pennsylvania in 3 days. After about 10 more days I get an email from DHL that states that they have a package for me with an invalid address could I please provide the correct address. I provided it, and they again told me that there is no such address.
I then pasted in a copy of the results of a Google search for my address containing a picture of the house, then I grabbed a screen shot from my phone of turn by turn directions from the Pittsburgh DHL hub to my house. I sent these to DHL, and they promptly dropped the book into a USPS envelope and mailed it to me. That was probably cheaper than sending a driver here, 70 miles each way.
UPS has a facility about 7 miles from here. They deliver to this house. Outgoing shipments can be brought there during limited hours and there is usually a long wait in line. I can take UPS to the ACE hardware store in town. The brown truck stops there twice a day. There is a UPS counter in the store.
Fedex has two facilities that serve this area, one in Pennsylvania and another in Ohio, both are about 50 miles away, but they get enough business from this area to make it worthwhile to deliver to the house most days. DHL does not.
Fedex will drop stuff off at a drug store in town (2 miles away) if they are notified in advance to do so. Small domestic packages and envelopes can be shipped from there if done online first. The closest DHL drop off point is about 15 miles from here. I have to go there to ship outgoing international or large stuff by Fedex.
JLCPCB is a very good option indeed. The only problem I ever had with them is that their blue soldermask used to be very sensitive to scratches, haven't ordered a PCB with blue mask from them since, hopefully it is resolved by now. The FR-4 laminates they use aren't particularly optimal for the higher temperatures associated with using lead-free alloys, but I never had a problem with delamination or lifted traces even when doing SMD rework. What I don't like about JLCPCB is that they only offer 0.5oz copper on the inner layers of 4-Layer boards. And don't expect US levels of silkscreen quality from chinese board houses. They do many things very well, silkscreen is usually not one of them.
Which other brand? Dale/Vishay is very good. If you have to pay the same shipping charge for either,
I would get the Dale. If it would cost several dollars extra to get the Dale, probably not worth it.
That first switch vendor is in Hong Kong, so they're probably not a Grayhill vendor. Forget them.
The F option in the switch part number is for PC mount terminals, do you want that?
If yes, and no other option, you can hard wire the switch terminals to the board.
Last edited:
It looks like that might be my only option . im wondering if maybe a different company besides grayhill makes that same type of switch with the same specs only able to mount it via through hole like the manual calls for..
I recently could not find parts I needed except at Profusion in the UK. They had the courtesy to email me they normally would not ship that part to the US but they checked with the manufacturer and learned about the shortage.
They shipped promptly by DHL and at a fair price. Was delivered actually a day early!
I can't say enough good things about them.
Mouser on the other hand is still listing the part as back ordered and has not notified me that the delivery date is still slipping. There is as far as I can tell no other source of the part. I did notify the manufacturer well in advance of my needs. I did try to order a few reels of the part and no response from the manufacturer.
I have found two alternates, so a PCB redesign is underway.
My digikey orders are fine by digikey's part but fedex runs longer than promised.
Mouser is still running a bit slow, but so far not awful. I just no longer believe their back order dates.
Arrow has given me issues with their website promising things they don't even carry. Worse they have a local sales office so I get bothered by salesman on occasion.
I haven't really paid attention but I am sure I spend more than $10,000.00 a year on parts, but not much more. I do have a local assembly house that often buys parts I specify for my projects, but I still think even counting those parts I am well under $100,000.00 a year.
Tube lab of course is really not far away and I am sure spends much more!!!
They shipped promptly by DHL and at a fair price. Was delivered actually a day early!
I can't say enough good things about them.
Mouser on the other hand is still listing the part as back ordered and has not notified me that the delivery date is still slipping. There is as far as I can tell no other source of the part. I did notify the manufacturer well in advance of my needs. I did try to order a few reels of the part and no response from the manufacturer.
I have found two alternates, so a PCB redesign is underway.
My digikey orders are fine by digikey's part but fedex runs longer than promised.
Mouser is still running a bit slow, but so far not awful. I just no longer believe their back order dates.
Arrow has given me issues with their website promising things they don't even carry. Worse they have a local sales office so I get bothered by salesman on occasion.
I haven't really paid attention but I am sure I spend more than $10,000.00 a year on parts, but not much more. I do have a local assembly house that often buys parts I specify for my projects, but I still think even counting those parts I am well under $100,000.00 a year.
Tube lab of course is really not far away and I am sure spends much more!!!
Last edited:
We had an in house PCB shop at Motorola. Their blue mask also scratched easy, and tended to fade under UV exposure. Several black solder masks have been known to upset sensitive circuitry, and even flash over under high voltages, possibly due to carbon content in the dye. I like the look of black and gold boards, but wouldn't use them in a tube amp. I'll stick with green.
Not even close. Total sales for 2020 (worse full year ever) were under $5K, can't spend more than you make for long.....
I hate black boards because it's extremely difficult to see the traces. If everything works from the off then that's no issue, but troubleshooting on green (or red/blue) substrate is so much easier.
EDIT: I probably hate white PCBs even more though, because the black boards are just impractical whereas the white ones are impractical and ugly at the same time
Last edited:
Your black boards came from JLCPCB?
PJRC, the people who make the Teensy microcontroller boards reported funny effects in some boards that used black mask. These were seen in high impedance A/D and clock inputs, and the issue went away when they switched to green.
I have not tried black, but I may try it on a music synthesizer board that sees 12 volts max.
The board lab at Motorola basically said "we will try anything once."
The blue board is a 4 layer design (3 layers of laminate, 4 layers of copper) I asked if they could use two different kinds of material in one board....."we'll try it."
Rodgers Duroid is a pricey laminate made with ground ceramic particles in a Teflon base. It's good to dozens of GHz, but too flexible for many applications. I got some boards made with one layer of Duroid, and two layers of FR4. They worked fine and held up through all sorts of stress torture, but the performance gain did not justify the cost until about 4 GHz. This board runs at 2.3 GHz.
Duroid is white, hence the bright color. The tan board was a quick turn (2 to 4 hours) with no solder mask. ON a high frequency RF board position of the caps along the RF runners matters. Placement is used to tube the board, so early in the design solder mask is a nusiance since you will be scratching it off in places anyway. The blue board incorporates "tweakability," long strips without solder mask. Mentor Graphics would let me do that, Cadence would not. After the company wide switch to Cadence I just ditched the solder mask all together on my proto boards.
Another "dumm blonde idea" to improve board density, place small SMD parts vertically in holes through the board. This allows things like placing the RF bypass caps right under the pins of the chip, or under the chip itself. I got some boards made, and another multi layer batch made with real tiny parts (0204 and 0102) laying horizontally in slots that only go one or two layers deep.
Both neat ideas, and patent applications were written, but neither of these passed the typical heat, cold, vibration, and drop torture testing. That was 10 years ago, further work continued after I left, but soon after I left, the PC board lab was closed down and all the people were laid off.
Last time I visited the plant (almost two years ago) the SMD assembly lab was still running, but most other engineering support organizations were gone.
Attachments
Here is a video with a closer look at the black soldermasks of 2 popular Chinese board houses. He says he made it on viewer request - that viewer was actually me
SDG #188 JLCPCB or PCBWay's Black PCBs? - YouTube
We had a severe weather event a couple weeks ago that made a mess out of a large part of the southwest USA. Some places still do not have power or a clean water supply. Mouser's main facility was right in the middle of that mess, as was Fedex's main hub for the southwest part of the US.
Here is a video with a closer look at the black soldermasks of 2 popular Chinese board houses. He says he made it on viewer request - that viewer was actually me
SDG #188 JLCPCB or PCBWay's Black PCBs? - YouTube
The statements about the PCB Way black mask being hard to clean may explain the leakage effects taken in the context of another issue that came to light about a year ago.
Several of the usual "maker" suppliers sell a solder with "water soluble flux" intended for water clean up. This may be fine on a 5 volt Arduino, but NOT on a 400 volt tube amp. If the flux is not completely removed from the board the trace remnants can and will absorb moisture leading to leakage and possible flashover in HV applications.
A customer bought a tube amp board from me, built it, and cleaned it. He then left it in the garage for some time while the chassis was being built. Upon power up the board started arcing in several places. The biggest burn mark occurred between a leaded resistor and a trace under the solder mask below. There was a gap between the resistor and the board. The board used GREEN solder mask.
I got this board back, examined it and set up some experiments.
Using a fresh pair of new green boards made by my usual US vendor, I soldered in several resistors. One board was soldered with my usual 30 year old Alpha Metals 63/37 lead based solder. I made no attempt to clean the board after soldering. The other board was soldered with the exact same "Chip Quick" solder the customer used. It was wiped down with a damp cloth as the customer did. Both boards were left on the drill press in my garage for 2 weeks.
I brought them inside and used a 750 volt power transformer with a 40 watt incandescent bulb in series with the primary with a meter across the bulb to "test" for breakdown in the board / solder combination. No issues were seen in the board soldered with my old solder. I got conductivity between adjacent soldered connection, with smoke, sizzling, and an arc in two places. I could not get an arc between a resistor and the trace underneath it. Even so it appears that the flux in this "water cleanup" solder can absorb moisture and cause problems. It must be removed completely to be reliable under all possible conditions.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.