Hi guys,
today I took a closer look at the Mouser order, which came in yesterday. In order to connect my DAC/Streamer (Auralic Altair) with the new Mod286s, I had ordered the Neutrik EMC connectors (NC3MXX-EMC and NC3FXX-EMC). Today I realised that the connectors have some capacitors / resistors (?) between pin1 and the shield / housing.
Also in the Altair Manual it is stated, quote (page8) "The amplitude of analog outputs is adjustable with maximum level at about 4.4Vrms
Now I am wondering if I made a mistake here a) with the Neutrik EMC connectors and b) with the not grounding any pin statement from Auralic, as the Mods286 have a RFI rejection circuit on them as well (presumingly therefore the required pin1/shield and PCB Connection)?
Any help / advice would be appreciated.
Thx in advance.
SH
today I took a closer look at the Mouser order, which came in yesterday. In order to connect my DAC/Streamer (Auralic Altair) with the new Mod286s, I had ordered the Neutrik EMC connectors (NC3MXX-EMC and NC3FXX-EMC). Today I realised that the connectors have some capacitors / resistors (?) between pin1 and the shield / housing.
Also in the Altair Manual it is stated, quote (page8) "The amplitude of analog outputs is adjustable with maximum level at about 4.4Vrms
on both XLR and 2.2Vrms on RCA outputs. Please pay double attention NOT to short
any pin of any analog output to ground."Now I am wondering if I made a mistake here a) with the Neutrik EMC connectors and b) with the not grounding any pin statement from Auralic, as the Mods286 have a RFI rejection circuit on them as well (presumingly therefore the required pin1/shield and PCB Connection)?
Any help / advice would be appreciated.
Thx in advance.
SH
Last edited:
What ever works best for you.
I have always received the parts each type individually packaged. I like to sit down with the BOM Page of the instruction, and find the part in the bag. Then I write the R1 board placement location on the bag.
After all of the bags are labeled, I stack them in order in a shoe box (like index cards)
Now I turn to the instruction page, and it may say, Install R1, R2, R3, R4 etc
I do end up installing all of the 1K resistors for example at the same time, because I may get to the bag containing R3, and I see I also wrote R14 on that same bag (because those two spots on the board had the same value for example).
That works for me. You'll find what works for you. Look over all of the instructions as a whole before you begin, and I'm sure you'll be fine. The instructions are deffinately well thought out and pretty fool-proof.
^^^^^^^ BUMP. (Someone else should answer because I don't have Mod286)
Wanted to tell you though to not be too worried.
Pin 1 "IS" the ground, so I don't think you're shorting anything in the way that Aurliac warns against. While I think the EMC network on your Neutrik connectors is not necessary, I bet it won't hurt,... but we'll see what someone more knowledgeable says.
Hi thanks a lot for both your answers. I will follow your advice. Let's see if there are more views on the Neutrik XLR EMCs.
My generic assembly guidelines:
- Start with the least ESD sensitive components (passives) and work towards the most ESD sensitive components (ICs).
- Start with the low components and work towards the taller ones.
- On SMD boards, start with the SMD and finish with the leaded parts.
That's the order I list for the assembly instructions for each product.
Whether you go R1, R2, R3... or 1 kΩ, 2 kΩ, 2.74 kΩ, etc. is up to you. I generally find it easier to populate all of one value at the same time, so 1 kΩ, 2 kΩ, 2.74 kΩ .... This is especially crucial for capacitors as once you get the caps out of the labeled bag they are indistinguishable from each other as they're not marked.
When I get the bag from Mouser, I dig out all the resistors and ceramic caps. I sort them by value. I then grab the BOM and work my way down the list of resistors. Then capacitors. Then diodes. Then electrolytic caps. Then ICs (except the LM3886es). Then connectors, inductors, and mounting brackets. Then finally (preferably with the board attached to a heat sink by the mounting brackets, the LM3886es are attached to the heat sink and soldered.
Tom
Last edited:
(Emphasis mine). Ground is not an analog output. What the statement says is: Don't connect pin 2 or pin 3 to ground.
For the XLR input of the MOD286, connect XLR pin 1 to input connector pin 1. Pin 2 to 2. 3 to 3. Also connect XLR pin 1 to the chassis tab on the XLR connector. Done.
Tom
Last edited:
Hi Tom
Thanks for clearing this up and also thanks for the tips on SMD assembly. That's how I will do it.
Any view on the Neutrik XLR EMC connectors? Do they hurt the performance of the Mod286 with their extra caps included in the plug?
Thx
SH
Think about this. If a semiconductor company were to drop a chip without any warning, it would have huge consequences for their customers which would lead to all sorts of unpleasantry (law suits, etc.). There is a process -- notification is sent to all known customers as well as distributors, a 'last buy' date is set out in the future along with a last ship date. All of this is a many month process.
Unless someone can produce any evidence of these already having happened, the correct conclusion is that there is some hiccup in the web site.
Unless someone can produce any evidence of these already having happened, the correct conclusion is that there is some hiccup in the web site.
I think the Neutrik EMC series is great. The EMC shielding on the connectors will by far exceed the shielding of any chassis you're likely to build. No harm in using them. No need either.
Tom
I suspect a website glitch (as I mentioned in that thread already). I have not heard anything from any of the official distributors (I get the product change and product status change notifications) and they still list the parts as active (= in current production).
It did get my pulse up, though. I'm done with cardio for the day.
Tom
Thanks Tom.
On another Topic: IEC inlets - I would have the choice between these two.
a) Standard, switched and fused
http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...=sGAEpiMZZMslPglT/XeKq4Ob0SVhzEgdBIBjBidIdr4=
b) above plus EMI/RFI filter (Schurter D129111111)
http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/DD129111111/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiSXuytMHdTXk1s7r6Xp6AfuHwvMxszqLJR%2f7eN%2fFUYwg%3d%3d
Do the EMI/RFI degrade sound or dont they have no effect at all (except on your wallet)?
I know the topic was discussed around post 3000, but never concluded, or at least not in a way, that I was able to understand. (Few... I just finished reading through all the 3000+ posts, very insightfull, but also confusing to me as a noob at times).
Any insight would be helpful to simplify my decision making.
thx.
SH
?
A mains interference filter allows the 50Hz/60Hz to pass virtually unaffected.
The filter attenuates the very high frequencies that pollute the mains.
It can be designed to work both ways:
to attenuate the interference coming in from the mains to pollute the equipment
and
to attenuate the interference created by the equipment (SMPS) to help prevent your equipment interfering with your neighbours.
A commercially source mains interference filter should never reduce the sound quality of any competently designed/assembled audio equipment.
A mains interference filter allows the 50Hz/60Hz to pass virtually unaffected.
The filter attenuates the very high frequencies that pollute the mains.
It can be designed to work both ways:
to attenuate the interference coming in from the mains to pollute the equipment
and
to attenuate the interference created by the equipment (SMPS) to help prevent your equipment interfering with your neighbours.
A commercially source mains interference filter should never reduce the sound quality of any competently designed/assembled audio equipment.
From what we learn in school, it should never effect sound quality. However, after designing one myself and later substituting parts of same value but different brand, the difference in sound quality was discovered by a third party because I though it would not make a difference and did not check after substitution. These are basically Xcaps and Y caps. Well known brands were used in both cases.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Ok thanks I understand.
Would you guys be able to tell from the Mouser link and the datasheet if the above mentioned IEC inlet / RFI filter is harmless in terms of sound for the Mod286?
Thx
SH
Filters designed to prevent switching power from polluting the mains is dealing with very special situation, preventing the mains from polluting the load really is a by chance issue. I have noticed in the past that equipment that are not so well designed really are not effected my mains filtering. This is at least from 30 years of switching different equipment and trying different filters. The filter switching was done under the assumption to prevent mains from effecting the load during that time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk