tcpip,
If I may ask, how much are those Tortrans transformers?
That is a nice heatsink - also locally sourced?
If I may ask, how much are those Tortrans transformers?
That is a nice heatsink - also locally sourced?
Torotrans charged me just over Rs.4,000 for the transformer, and then added 18% GST and shipping.
Yes, this is from a vendor called Akash Heatsinks, also in Pune.
Home | Akashheatsink.com
These guys (and almost anyone anywhere in the world) have extruded heatsinks of 8" width or less. (If you get wider sections, they are usually cast, not extruded, and have poorer heat sinking ability.) So they are willing to join two pieces edge to edge using friction welding. Then they polished the base surface and anodised them. I paid Rs.3,300 for two such pieces, each 40cm long, including taxes.
Thank you for the detailed response tcpip, and look forward to your build updates when the rest of the parts also come in.
You have some time now to plan the chassis layout. 🙂
You have some time now to plan the chassis layout. 🙂
Hi all.
I am soon going to build a 686. My first full DIY build.
I have ordered most of the parts already. Just waiting for the "Black Friday" sales at modushop before I order my case.
I have a couple of questions , should I order the case with Iron covers, or are the aluminium covers worth the additional cost?
I have modiifed the case layout slightly, but having just learnt that the heatsinks are in two pieces, should I split the 686 modules evenly between the two?
I am soon going to build a 686. My first full DIY build.
I have ordered most of the parts already. Just waiting for the "Black Friday" sales at modushop before I order my case.
I have a couple of questions , should I order the case with Iron covers, or are the aluminium covers worth the additional cost?
I have modiifed the case layout slightly, but having just learnt that the heatsinks are in two pieces, should I split the 686 modules evenly between the two?
Actually this is a custom designed chassis, and the internal layout of modules has already been done. 🙂
Holy cow! What a build! It looks like it came together nicely for you. Congratulations on a build well done.
Tom
Thank's Tom.
The most difficult was mounting and insulating the LM3886 on a 3mm threaded aluminum plate.
Maybe providing the full module is a good idea ...
The most difficult was mounting and insulating the LM3886 on a 3mm threaded aluminum plate.
Maybe providing the full module is a good idea ...
Nice build!
Will the butyl sheet prevent the electrolytics from pressure-venting as designed by manufacturer?
Will the butyl sheet prevent the electrolytics from pressure-venting as designed by manufacturer?
Looks like the caps have a plastic disc that's held in place by the sleeve around the cap, so I bet they vent out the bottom.
Tom
Tom
Folks,
Just a quick reminder: The pre-order discount on the MOD686 Rev. 1.1 expires tomorrow afternoon (MST) as I will be taking delivery of the next batch then.
Tom
Just a quick reminder: The pre-order discount on the MOD686 Rev. 1.1 expires tomorrow afternoon (MST) as I will be taking delivery of the next batch then.
Tom
I do not know. I systematically use this process to avoid the vibrations of the capacitors.
There is the butyl sheet but also butyl between each capacitor.
Similar things can be found on switching power supplies.
What happens if the power supply smoothing capacitors vibrate a bit? I've heard that there could be microphonics with the signal carrying caps, but not about the power supply caps.
If they vibrate enough, metal fatigue will set in and the pins will break. That's mostly an issue with smaller capacitors if they're mounted a hair above the PCB surface. That's why you often see capacitors held together with silicone in SMPSes and Class D amp modules. I doubt vibration is an issue with snap-in capacitors. That's what I use in the Power-86 and Power-686.
I also doubt vibration is a big issue in most residential settings. But it likely would be an issue in active speakers intended for PA use.
The NOVER caps are snap-in types. The data sheet does not mention where the vent is located.
Tom
I also doubt vibration is a big issue in most residential settings. But it likely would be an issue in active speakers intended for PA use.
The NOVER caps are snap-in types. The data sheet does not mention where the vent is located.
Tom
Understood. So, there is no impact on amplification precision or audible performance in domestic audio scenarios. Matches what I'd understood.
In high reliability gear, such as aerospace, there is a process known as "staking" in which components are bonded in a defined and precise way to the circuit board.
For example CONFORMAL COATING AND STAKING (BONDING)<br>ADHESIVE BONDING/STAKING
In domestic and commercial gear that might end up in a high vibration environment - such as sound reinforcement electronics - use of silicone or hot melt is the workaday thing to do, particularly to high-mass items like board mounted reservoir capacitors.
Craig
For example CONFORMAL COATING AND STAKING (BONDING)<br>ADHESIVE BONDING/STAKING
In domestic and commercial gear that might end up in a high vibration environment - such as sound reinforcement electronics - use of silicone or hot melt is the workaday thing to do, particularly to high-mass items like board mounted reservoir capacitors.
Craig
Hello,
Thanks for your feedback.
By reading the capacitor datasheet we see on the sketch a dotted line on the top of the capacitor marked "vent".
I'm afraid that having a butyl covering plate is a potentially dangerous idea ...
I will put a disclaimer on my presentation. But I think it will be difficult for me to remove those in place ...🙁
Thanks for your feedback.
By reading the capacitor datasheet we see on the sketch a dotted line on the top of the capacitor marked "vent".
I'm afraid that having a butyl covering plate is a potentially dangerous idea ...
I will put a disclaimer on my presentation. But I think it will be difficult for me to remove those in place ...🙁
A follow up on this. If you want Modushop to modify your chassis, you need the 3mm aluminium cover version, as the cheaper 1mm “iron” cover has an
“Iron” rear panel, which Modushop cannot drill.