Black Gate was and is an exception IMHO but mostly for the N and NX series. Still use BG NX HiQ myself. I will sell my quite large stock of BG in a few weeks time. Too many...
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You are mad;
Black Gate is like gold or Petrus or Rolex :this is crisis, end of the world : zombies, young people come back with vynil, grandma has electronic ears, globall warming, subprime crisis, children with mp3 on smartphones....
Keep it, this an horison line, a survey line like the Ariane wire in the tunel of the bad modern hifiw world (proud of this last two cents one !😀) !
Make a V4 already build with C35 BG N or NX (prefer N myself) ; do an auction here for collector and come with us on the TDA1541 kit thread for saving also more ears with the gentle participation of Pedja for charity curse...
If Pedja rebuild for us a special one shot AYA 2, we will need BG N or NX for this non commercial operation... come this is totaly rock&roll, goodwilled uthopie, totaly Brillegeit glasses !
Black Gate is like gold or Petrus or Rolex :this is crisis, end of the world : zombies, young people come back with vynil, grandma has electronic ears, globall warming, subprime crisis, children with mp3 on smartphones....
Keep it, this an horison line, a survey line like the Ariane wire in the tunel of the bad modern hifiw world (proud of this last two cents one !😀) !
Make a V4 already build with C35 BG N or NX (prefer N myself) ; do an auction here for collector and come with us on the TDA1541 kit thread for saving also more ears with the gentle participation of Pedja for charity curse...
If Pedja rebuild for us a special one shot AYA 2, we will need BG N or NX for this non commercial operation... come this is totaly rock&roll, goodwilled uthopie, totaly Brillegeit glasses !
If your Weller soldering iron is hot, try 1 uf MKT blue epcos (the one of the PS) with BG at C35... Epcos is too thin in tonal balance but on the 6 different MKT I tried, he give incredible details and end notes...(but bad alone, need to finf a good // but maybe impossible : some harchness in highs also ! two cents because Wima 1 uF is ok if no BG !)
Pedja used on the AYA2 two BG N or NX as Dc stopper and flavor arrangement... Silmic never get close to them ! but two in +--+ gave me some solutions when space was missing... I think with Solidstae a simple little lundhal at 50 euros with mumetal shielding give good result with clean filtering without any lost in bass or clearness with my few experiences !
Pedja used on the AYA2 two BG N or NX as Dc stopper and flavor arrangement... Silmic never get close to them ! but two in +--+ gave me some solutions when space was missing... I think with Solidstae a simple little lundhal at 50 euros with mumetal shielding give good result with clean filtering without any lost in bass or clearness with my few experiences !
better without epcos... just the BG alone !
So my top 3 are 🙁with the 1 uF X7R ceramic)
BG standard 1 uF
Wima 1 uF
Philips MKT 1 uF (could be an alternative to the WIMA but on the flavor way only, not better).
I'll love to hear a BG N... if you have one JP, yhink to me 😉
So my top 3 are 🙁with the 1 uF X7R ceramic)
BG standard 1 uF
Wima 1 uF
Philips MKT 1 uF (could be an alternative to the WIMA but on the flavor way only, not better).
I'll love to hear a BG N... if you have one JP, yhink to me 😉
Eldam,
Can you share the details of your test? Are you swapping caps and then listening to the same DAC and trying to remember the sound of the previous capacitor? Or are you using a "reference V3 DAC" and comparing changes to that reference?
I have found that the first method doesn't work very well. It's easy to get lost and not really know if a change is better or not. You really need a stable reference.
I ask this question because my experience is that conventional BG capacitors aren't anything special. Only the BG N/NX caps are superior. So when you tell me that conventional BG is better than the Wima, I am a little uncertain of the results.
All the best.
---Gary
No, it's not finish yet.
I'm always listen the same music for my test from many years.
test are maid with the genuine one but :
Spidf coupling cap : 1 Uf wima MKS2. c35 come back with Wima 1 uF MKS2 for ref and tests 5before : 3.3 uf MKS2... not big difference IHMO)
C21 : SEP 10 uF /20V
and the tweaked one... there is a concistency with C35 result with the both when this cap is changed even if the two pcbs are not the same (1 uf acrylic cap before the ldo regs on the second; 10 uf SEP for the WM8804; 605 case used instead of 805 or 1205...), different crystal for WM8804 : TCX 10 ppm with 18 pf Colpitt load.
each time the PS was the first I maid than I changed for the genuine one with C2 grey cap of the bom and output cap with FM 4.7 uF + 0.1 uF wIMA OF THE bom. I have to say I want to have 9V on the second for the SB Duet, but with the value R1 & R2 on the n°20 scheme on the LM723 datasheet... i have 5.7 V !!!!!!!
that's why I permitt myself to write. Just try to undrerstand if you have BG, and philips one (for the curiosity). Big force of the Wima is no harchness in mid treble when some dynamic occur. BG is far better according my taste and system.
At C22 I didn't find BG was specialy an improvement, but I think it is for C35.
Source is the SB Duet with normal PS but my tweak with BG at J8 (Sympathetic thread). Both SB and Subbus are with genuine 75 ohms (see pictures above); plugs and jack are soldered as someone told me it's better for EF than just jack and plug with the other method (without soldering: by force).
Caps used for C35 are // with 605 case X7R 1 uF at C34 nears the pins of the Sabre. That's all. I surmise 1025 or 605 change on the scope but not for the ears... Will ask my dog !
Tested caps are 1 uF MKT : Philips, green Vishay, yellow Thomson, red WIma MKS2, Blue Epcos, chemical 1 uf BG standard. Have to try the 1210 CD acrylic also... surmise JP tried already on the pads underneath the pcb.
Any test yourself but the 4.7 Wima you gave ?
ps/ TEST ARE MAID WITH NOTES and not just one time : I repeat the test : on the same day and on half a week !
My conclusion for the moment is that the BOM with mooded of your thread are good and enough. C35 with BG is an important improvement for my test but are not sourcable anymore but partconexion or soniccraft stores.
Have to try 2 different C21 & 5 different C22 also -SAP for C22 is interesting against the SEPC... not fondamental). AFter i will tweak the secon pcbs with your hints about Zobel... and maybe a BG 47 uf after the common chocke in // with the 2200 uF... after One month maybe !
I'm always listen the same music for my test from many years.
test are maid with the genuine one but :
Spidf coupling cap : 1 Uf wima MKS2. c35 come back with Wima 1 uF MKS2 for ref and tests 5before : 3.3 uf MKS2... not big difference IHMO)
C21 : SEP 10 uF /20V
and the tweaked one... there is a concistency with C35 result with the both when this cap is changed even if the two pcbs are not the same (1 uf acrylic cap before the ldo regs on the second; 10 uf SEP for the WM8804; 605 case used instead of 805 or 1205...), different crystal for WM8804 : TCX 10 ppm with 18 pf Colpitt load.
each time the PS was the first I maid than I changed for the genuine one with C2 grey cap of the bom and output cap with FM 4.7 uF + 0.1 uF wIMA OF THE bom. I have to say I want to have 9V on the second for the SB Duet, but with the value R1 & R2 on the n°20 scheme on the LM723 datasheet... i have 5.7 V !!!!!!!
that's why I permitt myself to write. Just try to undrerstand if you have BG, and philips one (for the curiosity). Big force of the Wima is no harchness in mid treble when some dynamic occur. BG is far better according my taste and system.
At C22 I didn't find BG was specialy an improvement, but I think it is for C35.
Source is the SB Duet with normal PS but my tweak with BG at J8 (Sympathetic thread). Both SB and Subbus are with genuine 75 ohms (see pictures above); plugs and jack are soldered as someone told me it's better for EF than just jack and plug with the other method (without soldering: by force).
Caps used for C35 are // with 605 case X7R 1 uF at C34 nears the pins of the Sabre. That's all. I surmise 1025 or 605 change on the scope but not for the ears... Will ask my dog !
Tested caps are 1 uF MKT : Philips, green Vishay, yellow Thomson, red WIma MKS2, Blue Epcos, chemical 1 uf BG standard. Have to try the 1210 CD acrylic also... surmise JP tried already on the pads underneath the pcb.
Any test yourself but the 4.7 Wima you gave ?
ps/ TEST ARE MAID WITH NOTES and not just one time : I repeat the test : on the same day and on half a week !
My conclusion for the moment is that the BOM with mooded of your thread are good and enough. C35 with BG is an important improvement for my test but are not sourcable anymore but partconexion or soniccraft stores.
Have to try 2 different C21 & 5 different C22 also -SAP for C22 is interesting against the SEPC... not fondamental). AFter i will tweak the secon pcbs with your hints about Zobel... and maybe a BG 47 uf after the common chocke in // with the 2200 uF... after One month maybe !
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I believe it may have been mentioned before, but sockets are a great aid for quick comparisons of through hole caps and resistors. They help reduce the memory leg time and allow easy swaps.
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Good idea. I've got lots of different caps I could try for C35/C32 but I'm not sure I have patience to solder all of them in and listen carefully. Quick tests with insertion of different caps might be more fun. I've got the following Wima MKS caps here to try: 1uf, 2.2uf, 3.3uf, 4.7uf and the following BG N/NX 1uf and 4.7uf. In the V2.6 DAC I did compare 1uf BG to 4.7uf BG and liked the 4.7uf better. But in the V2.6 DAC there is only a single 1uf X7R bypass cap, not the double 1uf X7R bypass of the V3 DAC.
---Gary
I just bend the leads of the MKT & polymer beneath the pcbs for C21 & C35 : as things are equal, there is a concistency in test ! For a good contact beneath the pcb & the leads I use a match between the can or the plastic body & the pcb on the components side ! Comparing the genuine & the tweak test pcb with the same Wima at C35 with one soldered and the other bended : i found the concistency was enough for test. I think this is better for a little test and don't waste the pcb with a soldered socket. I don't swap quickly the caps. I take my time, as I use the same PS for the two pcbs for each test... my ears are reseted also. Writed notes help for memory to give a note and a place on a shoulder !
As the test is always with the same music for many years and even I use a reference (here the genuine first pcb) i always test the reference it self after a first benchmark was maid with caps. Same test is remaid on the Genuine PCB just for c35 to establish if the benchmark is the same after between the cap. Long method as double check but better. Of course with the second check the method is not to compare with the genuine BOM. Anyway I don't test for doing better than the BOM but to match to my flavor and speakers (more speakers !).
Gary I'm not really surprised than you don't find the same than me, your SB is more tweaked than mine, compensations are not the same. Is your test speakers the 3A ? Do you find the Wima better than the BG N/NX at the same value for C35 ? Why not on your "blessed" list for the modyfied Subbu ?😕
Is there a double x7r for c35 : you use also the pads beneath and the pads near the pins ?
Anyway : JP also found Wima is better than BG standard, the day JP will be agree with the chicken will have teeths;;; On my system this is not the same BG standard are better than Wimas... I would like to have a BG N to do better ! A votre bon coeur !
Gary, if you can : JP hear a difference with wima at c32 (2.5 pitch) if you have...i haven't yet !
As the test is always with the same music for many years and even I use a reference (here the genuine first pcb) i always test the reference it self after a first benchmark was maid with caps. Same test is remaid on the Genuine PCB just for c35 to establish if the benchmark is the same after between the cap. Long method as double check but better. Of course with the second check the method is not to compare with the genuine BOM. Anyway I don't test for doing better than the BOM but to match to my flavor and speakers (more speakers !).
Gary I'm not really surprised than you don't find the same than me, your SB is more tweaked than mine, compensations are not the same. Is your test speakers the 3A ? Do you find the Wima better than the BG N/NX at the same value for C35 ? Why not on your "blessed" list for the modyfied Subbu ?😕
Is there a double x7r for c35 : you use also the pads beneath and the pads near the pins ?
Anyway : JP also found Wima is better than BG standard, the day JP will be agree with the chicken will have teeths;;; On my system this is not the same BG standard are better than Wimas... I would like to have a BG N to do better ! A votre bon coeur !
Gary, if you can : JP hear a difference with wima at c32 (2.5 pitch) if you have...i haven't yet !
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If you check the schematic for the V3 DAC you will see two 1uf X7R caps in parallel with the 4.7uf C32/C35 cap. The 1uf caps are labelled C31 and C34 - one on the top of the board near the ES9023 pins and one on the bottom. Those are the ones that I meant.
If you check the early discussion about my experience building the V3 DAC in the group buy thread from last November, I mentioned that I liked the Wima 4.7uf MKS better than the BG 4.7uf at that time.
I think that's good news because it's almost impossible to get BG N/NX capacitors these days, at least at a reasonable price. Like JP, I have a stash of BGs that I bought years ago and haven't used yet. Perhaps I should sell them and use the proceeds to fund my next project.
---Gary
p.s. I don't have a "blessed" list of parts. I just share my experience and let others draw their own conclusions. All the results that I report were done via comparison of a test V3 DAC to a stable reference. The speakers are Reference 3A mm de capo i.
Gary,
In my vocabulary "blessed" is the BOM. I think with your vocalubary it's "reference V3 genuine BOM".
Is the BOM i had : i have shematic: C31//C34//C35 or C32 but the BOM says: C31 either C34 !
But I believe BCMBOB with him excelent Thread had an input about it in the middle of the thread. (I think its first page woerth a special mention).
But I also find again this I didn't remember : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...d-building-subbu-dac-v3-se-7.html#post3699035 : I resume: JP says use C34 for 4.7 tantalum (achtung : polarized) if C35 or C32 are 1 uF MKT Wima MKS2....for experimentations!
I didn't try myself :
C34: 4.7 uF tantalum but I 'm about to as JP had an input on it.
C32 Wima MKS2 (pitch 2.5) : do you hear a difference with pitch 5 mm at C35 (to avoid me buying the cap 🙂 )
C35 SAL as I have std BG (input of JP about the "flavor" near the BG with the SAL).
Thank you for the input about the speaker as you have two system I was not sure; I surmise my treble to be less neutral and on the bright side (instead a kef 104/2 ref at home e.g.). It helps me to understand the difference of results also. I think your SB Duet is better as well. I have the pulse transformer (Murata) but don''t want use it before my test are finish about the SB Duet (I have two, remember) & PS for a cleaner 9V.
For C21 : you seem to prefer polymer. I tested two with 1 uf WIMA at C35//1 uf X7R 1 uf on the two PCBs. First on the second, then with "blessed" to write here for a concistency for others :
Tested was : Panasonic SEP 10 uf/20 V and Nichicon PLV 10 uf/80V (pn: PLV1K100MCL1). the SEP is far better : more details and flater tonal balance, some tones are better also. The difference are less important than changes at C35 but without no doubt I keep the SEP here. I tryed also Silmic2 : like it, can't say if better or not but different. I did'nt try the SAL.
I read in a thread you tryed with all C32/C22/C21/C35 with SAL then Wima & prefer the all Wimas... then go to C21 polymer UCC (?), the SEPC (first page of the thread) and finaly 4.7 Wima at C35. So you use also 1 uf X7R smd at C31 beneath the pcb... (that was my first conf then my understanding went to the "either" C34 or C31).
hope it helps you if you want to play with curry cooking to save a little time (or not after all systems & flavor are different). I will appreciate your inputs if you 're going to new tests in a near future.
@ all : I didn't advise to play with your pcb if tou have just one : more risk to break and for not more good results. Official BOM is very good with the added hints & advices of Gary here in the first page. I'm a fanatic and always liked play with caps like cookers play with spices. It's more about flavor as my speakers are very transparent and a little brighty ! Don't forgett asources can change between fellows: it's SPIDF! So I'm not writting about a better way or an absolute truth. Finally just if you have a Black Gate for C35 < 4.7 uf, my humble opinion it's woerth a try as it's really different. Maybe not better, question of personal taste.
In my vocabulary "blessed" is the BOM. I think with your vocalubary it's "reference V3 genuine BOM".
Is the BOM i had : i have shematic: C31//C34//C35 or C32 but the BOM says: C31 either C34 !
But I believe BCMBOB with him excelent Thread had an input about it in the middle of the thread. (I think its first page woerth a special mention).
But I also find again this I didn't remember : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...d-building-subbu-dac-v3-se-7.html#post3699035 : I resume: JP says use C34 for 4.7 tantalum (achtung : polarized) if C35 or C32 are 1 uF MKT Wima MKS2....for experimentations!
I didn't try myself :
C34: 4.7 uF tantalum but I 'm about to as JP had an input on it.
C32 Wima MKS2 (pitch 2.5) : do you hear a difference with pitch 5 mm at C35 (to avoid me buying the cap 🙂 )
C35 SAL as I have std BG (input of JP about the "flavor" near the BG with the SAL).
Thank you for the input about the speaker as you have two system I was not sure; I surmise my treble to be less neutral and on the bright side (instead a kef 104/2 ref at home e.g.). It helps me to understand the difference of results also. I think your SB Duet is better as well. I have the pulse transformer (Murata) but don''t want use it before my test are finish about the SB Duet (I have two, remember) & PS for a cleaner 9V.
For C21 : you seem to prefer polymer. I tested two with 1 uf WIMA at C35//1 uf X7R 1 uf on the two PCBs. First on the second, then with "blessed" to write here for a concistency for others :
Tested was : Panasonic SEP 10 uf/20 V and Nichicon PLV 10 uf/80V (pn: PLV1K100MCL1). the SEP is far better : more details and flater tonal balance, some tones are better also. The difference are less important than changes at C35 but without no doubt I keep the SEP here. I tryed also Silmic2 : like it, can't say if better or not but different. I did'nt try the SAL.
I read in a thread you tryed with all C32/C22/C21/C35 with SAL then Wima & prefer the all Wimas... then go to C21 polymer UCC (?), the SEPC (first page of the thread) and finaly 4.7 Wima at C35. So you use also 1 uf X7R smd at C31 beneath the pcb... (that was my first conf then my understanding went to the "either" C34 or C31).
hope it helps you if you want to play with curry cooking to save a little time (or not after all systems & flavor are different). I will appreciate your inputs if you 're going to new tests in a near future.
@ all : I didn't advise to play with your pcb if tou have just one : more risk to break and for not more good results. Official BOM is very good with the added hints & advices of Gary here in the first page. I'm a fanatic and always liked play with caps like cookers play with spices. It's more about flavor as my speakers are very transparent and a little brighty ! Don't forgett asources can change between fellows: it's SPIDF! So I'm not writting about a better way or an absolute truth. Finally just if you have a Black Gate for C35 < 4.7 uf, my humble opinion it's woerth a try as it's really different. Maybe not better, question of personal taste.
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Oops! Someone asked for purchase info on the sockets in post #348. This is a Mouser link but they are available at most suppliers and on eBay in larger quantities.
IC Sockets - Mouser - 506-510-AG90D - Catalog Page
Edit: Digikey reference.
IC Sockets - Mouser - 506-510-AG90D - Catalog Page
Edit: Digikey reference.
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boxed up
I finally got around to putting the DAC combination that I experimented with 1 1/2 months ago and liked quite a bit into a box. I discussed the details of this build in posts #183 and #225 of this thread.
Briefly, this version of the DAC has the various tweaks that I've described through this thread, 470uf Nichicon FPCAP for C22, Wima 4.7uf MKS for C35, C4 is 3.3uf Wima MKS + 0.1uf MLCC. The power supply for the DAC is upgraded with an LT1764a regulator with CLC prefilter and Fairchild soft recovery diodes. I use a JG filter/buffer and power it with a +-15v supply based on the TPS7A4700 regulator. This fits nicely into a box that I bought from Polycase that measures 10" x 6" x 3" or for those more comfortable with metric measurements, 254mm x 152.4mm x 7.2mm. The Polycase model number is DC-96P. This is a plastic box, so I leave the ground floating as several people have recommended earlier in this thread.
I've attached pictures of the DAC from the front, from the back, and then an interior shot. Looking at the interior of the DAC, you can see the power transformers to the left, power supplies in the middle, and DAC + JG filter to the right. The bigger transformer towards the back of the case is a dual 14v transformer for powering the JG buffer - Tamura PL30-28-130B. The smaller transformer is a dual 5v transformer - Tamura 3FD-410. Since the LT1764a is a low drop out regulator, the lower voltage works fine here. After rectification, I get ~ 7.8v to the regulator which provides plenty of margin. The perf board next to the 3FD-410 holds the soft recovery diodes and the CLC filter. Towards the back of the case you can see the regulator board with the orange/gold low profile heat sink - this is the TPS7A4700 regulator board providing +-15v. The board with the bigger black heat sink is the LT1764a board. The V3 DAC is in the upper right hand corner and the JG buffer is near the RCA outputs.
I turned it on a short while ago and it works fine. Time will tell if it sounds as good boxed up as I remember from previous listening sessions.
---Gary
I finally got around to putting the DAC combination that I experimented with 1 1/2 months ago and liked quite a bit into a box. I discussed the details of this build in posts #183 and #225 of this thread.
Briefly, this version of the DAC has the various tweaks that I've described through this thread, 470uf Nichicon FPCAP for C22, Wima 4.7uf MKS for C35, C4 is 3.3uf Wima MKS + 0.1uf MLCC. The power supply for the DAC is upgraded with an LT1764a regulator with CLC prefilter and Fairchild soft recovery diodes. I use a JG filter/buffer and power it with a +-15v supply based on the TPS7A4700 regulator. This fits nicely into a box that I bought from Polycase that measures 10" x 6" x 3" or for those more comfortable with metric measurements, 254mm x 152.4mm x 7.2mm. The Polycase model number is DC-96P. This is a plastic box, so I leave the ground floating as several people have recommended earlier in this thread.
I've attached pictures of the DAC from the front, from the back, and then an interior shot. Looking at the interior of the DAC, you can see the power transformers to the left, power supplies in the middle, and DAC + JG filter to the right. The bigger transformer towards the back of the case is a dual 14v transformer for powering the JG buffer - Tamura PL30-28-130B. The smaller transformer is a dual 5v transformer - Tamura 3FD-410. Since the LT1764a is a low drop out regulator, the lower voltage works fine here. After rectification, I get ~ 7.8v to the regulator which provides plenty of margin. The perf board next to the 3FD-410 holds the soft recovery diodes and the CLC filter. Towards the back of the case you can see the regulator board with the orange/gold low profile heat sink - this is the TPS7A4700 regulator board providing +-15v. The board with the bigger black heat sink is the LT1764a board. The V3 DAC is in the upper right hand corner and the JG buffer is near the RCA outputs.
I turned it on a short while ago and it works fine. Time will tell if it sounds as good boxed up as I remember from previous listening sessions.
---Gary
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Nice!
This is a compact build considering the number of psu's 😉
I will be using a JG buffer myself that I initially wanted to power with batteries (aka EUVL's scheme).
But with a charger and everything this got too big physically so I switched to a Sjostrom Audio board that still is a bit bigger than the Diyinhk thing. Have to go for a slightly larger case!
Looking forward to your listening impressions!
This is a compact build considering the number of psu's 😉
I will be using a JG buffer myself that I initially wanted to power with batteries (aka EUVL's scheme).
But with a charger and everything this got too big physically so I switched to a Sjostrom Audio board that still is a bit bigger than the Diyinhk thing. Have to go for a slightly larger case!
Looking forward to your listening impressions!
Stixx,
Thanks. I took a look at your website and the devices you've built are beautiful. Your woodworking skills are very impressive.
Regarding the sound of this unit, it is breaking in. Right after I turned it on, it sounded OK but not as good as I'd remembered. This morning it seems to be opening up, so I'll reserve judgment for a few more days. The new electrolytic capacitors in the digital supply seem to need time to completely form.
---Gary
Exactly my experience recently!
As I wrote on the build thread I got a second Subbu DAC from another DIYaudio member... unfortunately not working (short)!
Eventually I found the reason of the short being a tiny copper trace on the X1 connector making contact to the ground plane... so effectively a faulty board.
I repopulated it with Panasonic SEPC caps this time (120uF for C2,3,18 and 470uF for C22), the previous owner went pretty much along your recommendations for the other parts (SAL-RPM and Wima).
Comparing this to my first build over the weekened was interesting... at first the second Subby sounded really dark and veiled but opened up considerably.
Now it probably will be my favourite since it also masters the high tones on piano ("Diskant" in german) better. Otherwise it is as open and threedimensional as the Subbu DAC's are... great stuff! 😉
Nice plastic case Garry,
same experience than you Stixx and Garry, this DAC works like a tube device according to me !
Three hours after switch on the sax of ben webster swap from the "harsch" to "velvett" as it has to sound !
I will report soon but are close to the end of the my tests caps to match with my system. As i have two V3 and just one JG buffer I try to do the best with one of th etwo without the buffer.
Stixx, as i say to you both SEPC at C18 and C22 gave me bad results... but each system sound different and its compensation, maybe it's very good for you ! To me best results are now with 470 SEP (not seps/f) at C22 and the UCC polymer of the BOM at C18 ! have to be after 5 x 470 uf Polymer to test a last Nichiccon LE serie; the Lelon was interresting for it mate treble but far less better than the panasonic SEPC or SEP !
10 uf SEP at C21 and for the wolfson also ! good tonal between mat and openess.
C35 is another story and the different taste of us also confirm than each system can be a little seted up by each fanatic here to match with the system/room and the taste of the owner in relation to the very good and neutral of the BOM
For the genuine PS I changed the 4.7 uf with 47 uF BG standard and keep the 0.1 uF wima, tje wires are short and thick in copper without silver... I were able to hear a difference 😱. I stay for the moment with C35 1 uF BG standard for the tuned Subbu and just with C34 decoupling. Will try : tantal like JP said, and also acrylyc at C31 !
I like warmer, dark background like old vynil... let say : analogic if its word has a real sens ?!
thank you to share gentlemen 🙂
same experience than you Stixx and Garry, this DAC works like a tube device according to me !
Three hours after switch on the sax of ben webster swap from the "harsch" to "velvett" as it has to sound !
I will report soon but are close to the end of the my tests caps to match with my system. As i have two V3 and just one JG buffer I try to do the best with one of th etwo without the buffer.
Stixx, as i say to you both SEPC at C18 and C22 gave me bad results... but each system sound different and its compensation, maybe it's very good for you ! To me best results are now with 470 SEP (not seps/f) at C22 and the UCC polymer of the BOM at C18 ! have to be after 5 x 470 uf Polymer to test a last Nichiccon LE serie; the Lelon was interresting for it mate treble but far less better than the panasonic SEPC or SEP !
10 uf SEP at C21 and for the wolfson also ! good tonal between mat and openess.
C35 is another story and the different taste of us also confirm than each system can be a little seted up by each fanatic here to match with the system/room and the taste of the owner in relation to the very good and neutral of the BOM
For the genuine PS I changed the 4.7 uf with 47 uF BG standard and keep the 0.1 uF wima, tje wires are short and thick in copper without silver... I were able to hear a difference 😱. I stay for the moment with C35 1 uF BG standard for the tuned Subbu and just with C34 decoupling. Will try : tantal like JP said, and also acrylyc at C31 !
I like warmer, dark background like old vynil... let say : analogic if its word has a real sens ?!
thank you to share gentlemen 🙂
PS: at C22, the pitch between the pins of the caps vary between 2 and 5 mm, ESR between 5 & 40 m ohms : each time no concistency between the general rules : the lowest the, the better the inductance so the current and transcient (my understanding ?); the lower ESR the lowest signature and noise and the subjective listening test (volume marked with scotch, as plugs on the wall for the sense for concistency, always the same tracks...).
It's mysterious to me, but I think there are delicate compensation matching between all the caps and resistors on the board... resonances change maybe a little; and also with the rest of the system (source, PS, preamp load and input stage). Its like a F1 and a circuit : you need to set up for a good race !
Finally the harder is to make a good equilibrium for everybody, and JP/Subbu suceed to do that with the BOM... with maybe finally too much choice between the SAL RPM and the others choice ! One suffice, after it's a personal tweaking for each owner.
But have to say than the 470 uf of garry at C22 works each time ! I liked also the C21 with polymer : tested three : UCC caP SA serie was not the better here, like Panasonic FM... i stay with SEP in my system !
good tweaks fellows, but advise not to change anything if you own just one board...it's fragile !
It's mysterious to me, but I think there are delicate compensation matching between all the caps and resistors on the board... resonances change maybe a little; and also with the rest of the system (source, PS, preamp load and input stage). Its like a F1 and a circuit : you need to set up for a good race !
Finally the harder is to make a good equilibrium for everybody, and JP/Subbu suceed to do that with the BOM... with maybe finally too much choice between the SAL RPM and the others choice ! One suffice, after it's a personal tweaking for each owner.
But have to say than the 470 uf of garry at C22 works each time ! I liked also the C21 with polymer : tested three : UCC caP SA serie was not the better here, like Panasonic FM... i stay with SEP in my system !
good tweaks fellows, but advise not to change anything if you own just one board...it's fragile !