A Karlsonator will help to smooth harsh top end. But make it out of tonewood (thin liteply) with bracing. Many people found thick B.B. or MDAf cabinets sound lifeless.
I did a sim a while back here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...sonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-80.html#post3956297
Look for plans for Karlsonator 8.
I did a sim a while back here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...sonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-80.html#post3956297
Look for plans for Karlsonator 8.
If you need a BSC around 1k then a 1mh inductor and add the resistor to taste, depending how much you need to take off the top. Anything between 5 to 10 Ohms should be ok. Higher the Ohms, lower the highs will be. That will make for a much better balanced sound.
The beauty of the Karlsonators is they don't need a BSC.
Although Skylar's super high sensitivity Karlsonator 0.53x with dual 3FE25-16 (97dB at 2.83v) used a BSC and he liked the balance better. Most of the time though, a Karlsonator has enough bass gain to compensate for the baffle step falloff.
BG20 in Karlsonator 8 for shop sound?
Upon discovery of this thread and learning about Karlsonator concepts, I'm excited to consider a build. I've been reading this through the posts the past week. What a great discussion!
I'm setting up my new wood shop and have the following in mind:
- wide dispersion is advantageous while moving about and working in the shop, it's about 800 square feet
- would like to avoid sub for simplicity but low end is important, especially when working with hearing protection to still feel the music
- prefer to mount speakers on or at least near wall, 8' ceilings
- loud is good, hearing protection note again
- listen to a wide variety of music
- listen for long periods while working, don't want sound to be fatiguing
So, I'm looking for a spot check before making sawdust...
I'm thinking about the Karlsonator 8 with Visaton BG20. I already have 3/4" baltic birch and the enclosure build would make a good first project in the new shop.
I read positive earlier posts from GregB and thejessman regarding the BG20 in an 8 vs 12 as well as measured responses. Just checking to see if the details of my intended use lead to any alternative suggestions.
Thanks!
Upon discovery of this thread and learning about Karlsonator concepts, I'm excited to consider a build. I've been reading this through the posts the past week. What a great discussion!
I'm setting up my new wood shop and have the following in mind:
- wide dispersion is advantageous while moving about and working in the shop, it's about 800 square feet
- would like to avoid sub for simplicity but low end is important, especially when working with hearing protection to still feel the music
- prefer to mount speakers on or at least near wall, 8' ceilings
- loud is good, hearing protection note again
- listen to a wide variety of music
- listen for long periods while working, don't want sound to be fatiguing
So, I'm looking for a spot check before making sawdust...
I'm thinking about the Karlsonator 8 with Visaton BG20. I already have 3/4" baltic birch and the enclosure build would make a good first project in the new shop.
I read positive earlier posts from GregB and thejessman regarding the BG20 in an 8 vs 12 as well as measured responses. Just checking to see if the details of my intended use lead to any alternative suggestions.
Thanks!
@ xrk and perceval, i will do K8 then, in foamboard for the start and after in lite ply... after we will se for the BSC... thanks 🙂
this is interesting, and started a lot of thinking and options in my head😀 is it possible to tame also Philips 9710 driver too?
i made Troels Gravesens contruction in the past , this one here Philips 9710/
but he killed te driver with xover too much and sound is too dull..
now im interested how can perform Philips 9710 /without any correction/ in Karlsonator..? HF bumb maybe will be controled and compensated with the box +listening position outside the axis..?
Yes, I think it would help the Phillips. The Vas is huge though - so maybe a 60Liter cabinet? If that’s not too big I can try modeling it in Akabak.
So I've been using a couple Anthony Gallo CL-1s in place of the damaged Karlsonators (.4 tc9s). I can't do an A-B comparison nor do I have measuring gear but it's clear the Gallos play deeper with better detail and need to be placed closer to a wall which is helpful in this space so they're staying where they are. Comparing $30 worth of mini K-nators to $400 speakers is... whatever.
I'm sold on the Karlsonator design regardless and have 4 tc9s to deploy. So maybe duals in .53x, or Mr X, would your 16x16 squatty quad work with this driver? Seems it should. It also seems a little more fun (a funky mono speaker). It's use would be semi-portable (not battery powered) for the backyard, garage, etc.
Also, I have 25 48x96x1/2" sheets of rigid foam sheathing being delivered tomorrow. $6.99 a sheet.
I'm sold on the Karlsonator design regardless and have 4 tc9s to deploy. So maybe duals in .53x, or Mr X, would your 16x16 squatty quad work with this driver? Seems it should. It also seems a little more fun (a funky mono speaker). It's use would be semi-portable (not battery powered) for the backyard, garage, etc.
Also, I have 25 48x96x1/2" sheets of rigid foam sheathing being delivered tomorrow. $6.99 a sheet.
If my build is finally successful, I was indeed planning to build an extra 0.53x to be used as a mono speaker when camping.
The 2x2 TC9 in 16in x 16in x 9in deep Karlsonator would work quite well I think. Square format is cool.
Hmmm... in that case, would you wire series/parallel the drivers bottom/top, or R/L?
x-x
x-x
or
x x
| |
x x
x-x
x-x
or
x x
| |
x x
I taped up some cardboard 16x16x9 just to get a feel for the size/shape. Yup, looks pretty cool to me. Made a rudimentary drawing of the aperture and drivers in a diamond configuration. I'm doing this. I could use advice on the duct height and the fold dimensions.
Maybe run the bottom configuration, with left as the left channel, right as the right channel? May be good for a Camping rig.
Either way is fine for series parallel but if you are planning to run both left and right channels in mono-speaker stereo then up-down arrangement (parallel up-down) is good.
wouldn't you run into a lot of phase cancellations running L/R in such a crammed space?
Better do a sum up to mono signal, then feed all 4 drivers with the same mono signal.
Better do a sum up to mono signal, then feed all 4 drivers with the same mono signal.
With the k-aperture I'd wager it would probably sound better than doing it at line level. You have a bit of cancellation but with each pair of speakers firing straight into the wings it would probably give a pretty good stereo image compared to summed mono. Not as good as true stereo, but nice all the same.
Easy peasy, thanks.
I'm jealous of the reports on the dual FE25 16s. The quad tc9 won't be as good and two of those drivers is just $38 (less than 4 tc9s). So I'm rethinking this again. Partly because my 1/2" rigid foam sheets arrived and feel a little flimsy for the 16x16 quad concept. I could laminate thin ply to mount the speakers but still this rigid foam isn't as hardy as the dollar store stuff. A lot of extra bracing will be needed. If I built a dual FE25 for the mono speaker idea I'd still have 4 tc9s which can't be a bad thing.