Is it recommended to have the whole 'bottom-area' padded with felt/carpet?
I have carpet only on the panel right behind the speakers.
All areas adjacent to driver should be lined with felt or foam. I have found Mr Clean Magic eraser sponges to work very well. Same material as BASF sound abatement open cell foam. Felt or recycled denim carpet padding works too. Sometimes a generic store brand of same cleaning pads are $5 for 12.
Thanks!
I found something similar available in germany.
I already thought my speaker was sounding good.
Now the removable baffle will com into play for th first time....
I found something similar available in germany.
I already thought my speaker was sounding good.
Now the removable baffle will com into play for th first time....
I found that it helps a lot to line the inside of the removable K aperture panel with felt. Sometimes on hard wooden apertures the sound is a bit hollow or has what sounds like an echo. The felt lining on aperture as well as on the sidewalls in front chamber adjacent to driver helps too.
I've found some unpleasant sound effects appear from the middle to big levels (depending of source of music) probably caused by resonance frequencies from touching between K-aperture panel and cabinet.
I've added to the cabinet thin ribbons from 2 mm very soft Neopren with double sided bonding tape and the result was that the irritating noises disappeared.
I've added to the cabinet thin ribbons from 2 mm very soft Neopren with double sided bonding tape and the result was that the irritating noises disappeared.
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There is a lot of pressure on K aperture. If you can use thin plywood here it is best. Then add material to absorb rattles is always good.
You're absolutely right! I've got an idea, inspired from advertising notebooks from my wife. She used for advertising needs notebooks covered by plywood, cutted by laser with relevant patterns. So expect my next Karlsonator design almost based on this technique for folding and cutting thin plywood🙂
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Transylvania Power Co., Acoustic Control, KK-Audio, Westwood, etc. all used 3/8" steel allthread with their little Ks which were made of Russian-Baltic birch plywood. I've seen 18mm Baltic birch plywood deflect plus-minus 1/4" when not braced. K15 type have a front "shelf" which is handy for using wood dowel rods.
here's one of my Acoustic Control cabinets - you can see the T-nuts which accept 3/8" allthread which runs from the wings all the way out the back.
Wing flex adds a type of modulation - it can also be heard on unbraced horns such as La Scala and unbraced U open baffles. Walter Zintz of Transylvania Power spoke of adding the bracing to reduce midrange distortion.
I think the pressure is greater with series vented Ks versus those with sealed back chambers, and maybe more so if the vent is located at the top vs the Karlsonette position (?) That said, my 18 inch klam with 3 cubic foot sealed back chamber, moved its wings a good plus and minus 1/4" on drum beats.
here's one of my Acoustic Control cabinets - you can see the T-nuts which accept 3/8" allthread which runs from the wings all the way out the back.
Wing flex adds a type of modulation - it can also be heard on unbraced horns such as La Scala and unbraced U open baffles. Walter Zintz of Transylvania Power spoke of adding the bracing to reduce midrange distortion.
I think the pressure is greater with series vented Ks versus those with sealed back chambers, and maybe more so if the vent is located at the top vs the Karlsonette position (?) That said, my 18 inch klam with 3 cubic foot sealed back chamber, moved its wings a good plus and minus 1/4" on drum beats.
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that should be one fine ceiling speaker. How does it sound and how much coverage do you get ? Karlson's AP9C ceiling speaker from what I've heard, pretty good considering the 6x9 inch driver it used.
hey AK3 - is there a front chamber divider between the dual apertures on your ceiling speaker?
Karlson's AP9C ("AP" = "Asymmetric Projector") was made out of stamped steel and had a perforated steel grill - I don't know if I have pictures of it anymore or not. It probably would work well with a 6x9 car coax. If the coax has a centered dome tweeter, then a K-tube could be glued to the tweeter baffle and enhance dispersion.
I tried a cheap Boss brand 6x9 with whizzer cone on a very crude cardboard shallow Kazba type baffle and was surprised how good subjectively it sounded despite the driver having a less than "flat" power response.
Karlson's AP9C ("AP" = "Asymmetric Projector") was made out of stamped steel and had a perforated steel grill - I don't know if I have pictures of it anymore or not. It probably would work well with a 6x9 car coax. If the coax has a centered dome tweeter, then a K-tube could be glued to the tweeter baffle and enhance dispersion.
I tried a cheap Boss brand 6x9 with whizzer cone on a very crude cardboard shallow Kazba type baffle and was surprised how good subjectively it sounded despite the driver having a less than "flat" power response.
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Well, I finally bit the bullet and ordered myself a pair of TC9FD Vifa's, and going to build a pair of 0.4x Karlsonators. I've grabbed a couple sheets here and there of black Elmer's foamcore the last few times I was at Wal-mart, so now I've got seven sheets to play with. The dollar store out here always has thrashed and beat-up boards, so looks like I'm starting out fancy 😎
I was reading this post a while back-
So, build it with the closed upper ~3" portion of the slot? instead of the front of the aperture being open all the way to the top?
Would widening the plans to 6.5" increase the bass gain in addition to the lower frequency response here, or would it do some other unexpected things to the response?
I am going to use these on either side of a 42" TV for video games and Netflix in my bedroom and space is tight, otherwise I would have gone bigger (maybe a pair of 20" cornus on the wall, or the wall mount MLTL from the foamcore thread?) but either way I trust they will be an improvement over the built-in speakers of my several year old Emerson TV. I like bass response, but won't likely need it too loud with the kids asleep on the other side of the wall, but will acquiesce and set up a subwoofer later if needed...
I was reading this post a while back-
I just want to remind folks that there is a lot of room for experimenting with the K-slot and its impact on the sound quality/bass extension.
According to my model, if you use the default K-slot initial width (0.125 in) for the 0.4x Karlsonator with the Vifa you will get a response like this:
However, if you make the slot start as zero (a pinched off cusp), you get this:
Note the bass extension is deeper but the efficiency went down, but the discontinuity at 300 Hz is reduced.
So, build it with the closed upper ~3" portion of the slot? instead of the front of the aperture being open all the way to the top?
Would widening the plans to 6.5" increase the bass gain in addition to the lower frequency response here, or would it do some other unexpected things to the response?
I am going to use these on either side of a 42" TV for video games and Netflix in my bedroom and space is tight, otherwise I would have gone bigger (maybe a pair of 20" cornus on the wall, or the wall mount MLTL from the foamcore thread?) but either way I trust they will be an improvement over the built-in speakers of my several year old Emerson TV. I like bass response, but won't likely need it too loud with the kids asleep on the other side of the wall, but will acquiesce and set up a subwoofer later if needed...
No, don't change the width - that changes volume which is sized perfectly for the TC9 as it is. You could scale the depth by an equivalent amount to keep volume the same but that would be a pain as all the plans are already drawn as is.
The score and fold plans are all good to go, so that looks like the way I'll do it then. Thanks!
I just ran sim for Pluvia 7 and it works in a 0.50x scale (height and depth) Karlsonator that is 0.42x scale in width. It should give a smooth bass extension with F3 of 55Hz. Max SPL is only about 95.3dB (8v) because above that you may run into xmax issues if you have a lot of bass content.
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Finally
XRK, you got me hooked. I just ordered 14# TC9FD... Time to build a bunch of Mini-Ks!
Thank you for this thread and sharing your knowledge!
OT: also ordered 2# Tangband W6-1139SH - now I'm desperately looking for a single speaker enclosure to use them as mini subs. Preferrably also K-style 🙂
Regds
Gerald
XRK, you got me hooked. I just ordered 14# TC9FD... Time to build a bunch of Mini-Ks!
Thank you for this thread and sharing your knowledge!
OT: also ordered 2# Tangband W6-1139SH - now I'm desperately looking for a single speaker enclosure to use them as mini subs. Preferrably also K-style 🙂
Regds
Gerald
XRK, you got me hooked. I just ordered 14# TC9FD... Time to build a bunch of Mini-Ks!
Thank you for this thread and sharing your knowledge!
OT: also ordered 2# Tangband W6-1139SH - now I'm desperately looking for a single speaker enclosure to use them as mini subs. Preferrably also K-style 🙂
Regds
Gerald
I can't remember uf you have already built one set of K'nator with TC9FD's and liked them?
The W6-1139SH is a great sub-woofer with the exact type of specs needed for a very nice XKi sub like this one:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/268524-xki-xs-ab-initio-karlson-6th-order-bandpass-26.html
Give me some time and I will come up with a design for you. It will look very similar to this though.
The only issue I see is that they are 4ohms and you will need to hook them up in parallel for 89dB sensitivity at 2.83v but at 2ohms impedance. You need a 2ohm amp for the sub. Are you ok with that? Otherwise I will design it for single driver sub and 83dB sensitivity is not the greatest but this thing has a lot of cone travel (11.5mm xmax) so maybe ok.
Cheers,
X
This will be my first K'nator build - although I've been using some stacks of Karlson Couplers in my active time... In fact, Wesayso and his incredible arrays pointed me to the TC9s when I started lurking around here.
For the subs, I'm really looking for single eights; they will be used in a low-level ambiance. Sound matters more. 😉
Regards
Gerald
How will you get 8ohms out of your 4ohm driver? Put two in series but that kills sensitivity even more.