Hi xrk971,
Please review my first plan and dimensions for Karlsonator x0.5 (HxD) and x0.42(W).
Any comments will be welcome. I'll use 5mm plywood with special laser cut for fold areas. Probably I'll have at least 2 or 3 main parts for easy folding, Cleats not included in plan except one for K-panel.
Cheers,
Nick
Please review my first plan and dimensions for Karlsonator x0.5 (HxD) and x0.42(W).
Any comments will be welcome. I'll use 5mm plywood with special laser cut for fold areas. Probably I'll have at least 2 or 3 main parts for easy folding, Cleats not included in plan except one for K-panel.
Cheers,
Nick
X,
Sorry to trouble you, my friend.
I've found these 4 inch drivers, and I like them. I think they would bring some power to the mini-k's.
They have a phase plug, though. Would that interfere with the K's aperture?
Do you think they are worth a simulation?
Re: 3.88
Fs: 80 Hz
Qts: 0.46
Qes: 0.59
Qms: 1.99
Le: 0.15
Vas: 5.12 l (0.181 cu.ft)
Sorry to trouble you, my friend.
I've found these 4 inch drivers, and I like them. I think they would bring some power to the mini-k's.
They have a phase plug, though. Would that interfere with the K's aperture?
Do you think they are worth a simulation?
Re: 3.88
Fs: 80 Hz
Qts: 0.46
Qes: 0.59
Qms: 1.99
Le: 0.15
Vas: 5.12 l (0.181 cu.ft)
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@xrk971 Have you modeled the response for a Foster W-422 driver?
I have two pairs of Olson X-Air speakers that had these drivers in them. One set was older and had Alnico magnets, the other is ferrite. The ferrite W-422 sounds absolutely amazing in a .4X (.53X as well, but I don't think I braced/stuffed those properly). Once I played with the stuffing the bass was extremely impressive from such a small driver.
Now these drivers were used just as prototypes to help me decide between a .4x and a .53x, once my choice was made I would order FaitalPros. I was planning on going with the .53's so I could utilize the additional sensitivity of the dual drivers. I received 4 8 ohm 3FE25s yesterday, and promptly installed them in the .53 cabinets with some additional stuffing.
They are definitely a lot louder than before and have much more top end. However, the bass doesn't seem as strong as the little .4X with the W-422. I don't know if its just because the highs are so much more present now that I don't hear it, if its because I'm listening in a different room than I was, or if those W-422's are just that awesome. Either way, the .53x should give better bass response.
I was really leaning towards building nice .40's (even though they don't gain the sensitivity) because of the smaller size, but if the 3FE25's don't have enough bass in the .53X I don't know if its worth it.
Sorry for blabbering nonsense. Can you offer any suggestions?
I have two pairs of Olson X-Air speakers that had these drivers in them. One set was older and had Alnico magnets, the other is ferrite. The ferrite W-422 sounds absolutely amazing in a .4X (.53X as well, but I don't think I braced/stuffed those properly). Once I played with the stuffing the bass was extremely impressive from such a small driver.
Now these drivers were used just as prototypes to help me decide between a .4x and a .53x, once my choice was made I would order FaitalPros. I was planning on going with the .53's so I could utilize the additional sensitivity of the dual drivers. I received 4 8 ohm 3FE25s yesterday, and promptly installed them in the .53 cabinets with some additional stuffing.
They are definitely a lot louder than before and have much more top end. However, the bass doesn't seem as strong as the little .4X with the W-422. I don't know if its just because the highs are so much more present now that I don't hear it, if its because I'm listening in a different room than I was, or if those W-422's are just that awesome. Either way, the .53x should give better bass response.
I was really leaning towards building nice .40's (even though they don't gain the sensitivity) because of the smaller size, but if the 3FE25's don't have enough bass in the .53X I don't know if its worth it.
Sorry for blabbering nonsense. Can you offer any suggestions?
No I have not modeled those yet. Please provide me TS parameters in same format that Freddi provides them to me then it plugs right into Akabak with no fuss.
Just realized I have a backlog of about 6 other sim requests. Geez they add up fast.
Might take me a week to get to yours.
Here is the standard Akabak format if you want me to get to t quicker.
Def_Driver 'JBL 2035H' |Notes: JBL 2035H multi-rib cone. 400W, 7.11mm xmax, Eff=4.13%)
SD=880cm2
fs=48Hz
Mms=85g
Qms=5
Qes=0.36
Re=3.9ohms
BL=16.6Tm
Le=0.25mH
Vas=140.5L
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Xrk971, I can't seem to find T/S parameters on this driver. Whatever they are, they work very well in a .4x. Not a ton of top end, but enough and what's there sounds great.
I ended up building another set of the .4x cabinets for the 3fe25's, using what I learned from the previous pairs to do these better. They're much more impressive now. The top end is still a little harsh, even with some thin craft felt on the back of the k aperture. The bass is pretty decent.
How do the 4FE32 or 4FE35 drivers in a .4x cabinet sound in comparison to the 3FE25's? I'm going to order one more set of drivers to use in my final build, getting 4 ohm drivers to match better with my little Max9744 amp. I'm considering going with one of the 4FEXX drivers if they will give me more low end presence or a smoother top end.
I ended up building another set of the .4x cabinets for the 3fe25's, using what I learned from the previous pairs to do these better. They're much more impressive now. The top end is still a little harsh, even with some thin craft felt on the back of the k aperture. The bass is pretty decent.
How do the 4FE32 or 4FE35 drivers in a .4x cabinet sound in comparison to the 3FE25's? I'm going to order one more set of drivers to use in my final build, getting 4 ohm drivers to match better with my little Max9744 amp. I'm considering going with one of the 4FEXX drivers if they will give me more low end presence or a smoother top end.
Xrk971 I'm a newbie interested in the karlson way curious since you and Freddi are experience I was wondering if a karlson slot can be adapted to an econowave or any type of horn and would it make a difference plus I would love to make a k tube and use it in my car have you ever tried it and whats the lowest you run on a k tube I await your reply my friend I almost forget did you ever combine a paraline with a karlson slot just curious I await your reply thank you
if you want to experiment with a K-lens tweeter for a car and keep it short, look at Alan Weiss's patent. Alan once had a home theawter speaker set for sale with a sheet metal mini-Klam lens which mounted to a 2-bolt Eminence compression driver. Each satellite used an Eminence Beta 8 woofer as direct radiator. The subwoofer was some sort of 12" Karlson-type. The little metal lens dimensions were probably 1.25" x 1.25" on the square portion which mounted over the compression driver's 1" diameter round exit. The angle in this generalized picture below is probably accurate. I made a thin cardboard and masking tape copy to test a number of years ago and it was "interesting".
I don't think there's a lot of loading in a K-tube - they tend to sound very good and "airy" . A tube the size of the old Transylvania Power Company "THE TUBE" is a good reference. That K-tube had a 2 degrees sidewalls downwards taper. A straight 1"ID pipe would be very close. Make it ~5.3" to 5.5" long with a 1/8" gap near the throat and a half ellipse slot profile.
a K-tube on a one inch format compression driver might be usable to a 1K2 crossover. Whether flat to that point may depend upon the driver. I suspect in some cases a flat baffle at the compression driver's exit plane would help the LF of the tweeter when using a K-tube on top of a bass enclosure. Temporary cardboard baffles could be used to determine what's best then make a nice permanent baffle from wood or acrylic sheet.
http://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pages/US5943431-1.png
here's IG81's graph of the Transylvania Power Company K-tube (5.3" long) with a BMS 4550 and 2nd order highpass - the swamping resistor was probably not needed with even order highpass where the inductor is parallel and directly across the driver.
homemade tube vs Transylvania - - At some point, someone at Transylvania put a crosswise roller pin in the device - I see a dowel I tried in my unmodified tube. I have no idea of what they were trying to accomplish. ;^) These Transylvania K-tubes are GREAT.
I don't think there's a lot of loading in a K-tube - they tend to sound very good and "airy" . A tube the size of the old Transylvania Power Company "THE TUBE" is a good reference. That K-tube had a 2 degrees sidewalls downwards taper. A straight 1"ID pipe would be very close. Make it ~5.3" to 5.5" long with a 1/8" gap near the throat and a half ellipse slot profile.
a K-tube on a one inch format compression driver might be usable to a 1K2 crossover. Whether flat to that point may depend upon the driver. I suspect in some cases a flat baffle at the compression driver's exit plane would help the LF of the tweeter when using a K-tube on top of a bass enclosure. Temporary cardboard baffles could be used to determine what's best then make a nice permanent baffle from wood or acrylic sheet.
http://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pages/US5943431-1.png
here's IG81's graph of the Transylvania Power Company K-tube (5.3" long) with a BMS 4550 and 2nd order highpass - the swamping resistor was probably not needed with even order highpass where the inductor is parallel and directly across the driver.
homemade tube vs Transylvania - - At some point, someone at Transylvania put a crosswise roller pin in the device - I see a dowel I tried in my unmodified tube. I have no idea of what they were trying to accomplish. ;^) These Transylvania K-tubes are GREAT.
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Thank you for the fast reply Freddi I'm getting onboard the karlson way I tried the paper rolls like you do and I like it if you can send me more info on the Allen Weiss patent my computers acting up and if xrk971 can answer this question about the paraline with a karlson slot exit and about putting karlson wings on econowave waveguide or other horns would it be benefits or not worth the time thanks again and if you can for the info if not no worries I start studying up and try my experiments, thanks again
Econowave is a CD and waveguide on top with a pro woofer on the bottom right?yiu don't want to put anything in front of that waveguide other than reticulated foam. A K aperture will mess up that waveguide. However, you can put a K aperture in front of the woofer and it will load it differently to allow higher power before hitting xmax and improve dispersion. You will have to retune the xo though. But if running achieve DSP Xo then east to try.
I made a couple of paralines. Did not like how they sound - very high amounts of diffraction and distortion. A K is not needed as Paraline has ideal slot shape for perfect smooth wide polars already.
Hello,
I was interested in applying the K-aperture as you are. I've made paralines with K-tube in the middle protruding out just for handling the hi freq. And also was curious abut combining K-aperture in the paraline itself, like you are describing, but never got around to make it yet. Please let us know if you succeed.
As for adapting the K-slot to a horn or a waveguide, I've made something that maybe of interest to you. I'll post the picture below. It started as a adaptation of a 'Tumbling Dice Horn'(just because it was the simplest horn that I could make with FC
) and gradually I applied 'The K-Sauce' Attachments
Thanks for the Reply I like your horn could be use on a coaxial speaker but what I wanted just like on a karlson you can remove the wings but I wanted to put the wings cut down to fit on the mounting screw holes in the horn to attach them and see if it makes a difference as for the paraline with a karlson slot I draw it and upload it later ok ok bolexsbm thanks for the pic I like it going to adapt it to a coaxial speaker to see if it works keep up the good work my friend
Attachments
You folks are awesome.
Sorry to be the new guy butting in, did you gentlemen ever work out something for this driver? I have a pair and I'd like to make cabinets for them, potentially to go under a pair of 511b horns with 1823m drivers. I can't figure out if i should use a scaled k15 or a k12, and my preference is only to have a correctly matched cab.
Thanks