The gain is perfect for my iPhone to play just at the right level. The heatsinks are in fact way oversized. Don't even get warm.
I had a cheap black board running without any heatsink.
I do not know this specific module, but it i think it should be adequate.
My guess is that they put those huge heatsinks onto those boards just to make them look big.
Maybe there would be more benefits from shorter traces which would require smaller heatsinks.
I do not know this specific module, but it i think it should be adequate.
My guess is that they put those huge heatsinks onto those boards just to make them look big.
Maybe there would be more benefits from shorter traces which would require smaller heatsinks.
its a lot cheaper to have oversized heatsinks on that chip than say a Krell 😀 I had a Belles A many years ago - convection currents could be seen rising above the amp - it had a dark/laidback soundstage - Belles completely rebuilt it as an AB - less heat - a more forwards and subjectively brighter sound - here's the board whose heatsink I was questioning http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sEYAAOSwgQ9V5USY/s-l500.jpg
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Here is a nice UL power supply rated 24Vdc, 5A. It's very quiet.
I have no affiliation with the seller, I just think this is a good and safe power supply to use;
High Quality 120W Adapt 24V 5A DC Power Supply Switch Power | eBay
BR,
Eric
I have no affiliation with the seller, I just think this is a good and safe power supply to use;
High Quality 120W Adapt 24V 5A DC Power Supply Switch Power | eBay
BR,
Eric
nyet, not yet.
it's 4-5 weeks ago that i placed the order.
i'm used to wait for about 6-8 weeks for a shipment from china.
that's why i prefer ali over ebay: longer and better buyer protection.
it's 4-5 weeks ago that i placed the order.
i'm used to wait for about 6-8 weeks for a shipment from china.
that's why i prefer ali over ebay: longer and better buyer protection.
So here are the 0.4x Karlsonator's that I made. I found red and black foam board at Hobby Lobby and thought they might look good together. I used two Aurasound NS3-193-8A's that I already had. After playing them for a few hours they are sounding really good, good low end. Question, do you guys think the TC9FD's would sound better? I had the Aura's. Thanks
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Nice work! I have not heard an NS3-193 before but the specs show that it can dig deep given the 9.5mm xmax. That is huge, but the sensitivity is down by 5dB vs TC9FD. So for lower amp power, the TC9FD will sound louder, but turning it up, they should be similar given their mid and HF response. The TC9FD probably would have a more refined sound and better clarity. It's cheap so why not try it at $10 ea?
Thanks xrk71. Your right about that, they are cheap, so it is definitely worth giving it a try. I'll order some up. One more question. I built one of them with the little brace on the inside of the front slot baffle and one without. Can't really tell a difference. What is the purpose of the brace? Vibration of the baffle?
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Yes, to reduce K aperture vib and flex. Use a double layer on front K aperture works well too.
A10.3 for Karlsonator
I received a request from a member who was interested in using the A10.3 in a K'nator. Unfortunately, the T/S parameters are such that it is not ideally suited to get deep bass extension. To get bass of 50Hz -3dB requires a 0.70x scale length and at minimum 0.60x scale width to fit driver bezel. It should be narrower though. As such, it produces a bass overshoot due to excessive volume. I don't have time at present to modify the code to account for less depth to reduce volume, but that may work. I would guess reduce the depth by scaling it an additional 0.7x on top of the 0.70x already for 0.5x overall depth to remove bass peak overshoot.
If it were designed for flat response, the f3 would only be about 72Hz, this would be an 0.47x scale all round:
I received a request from a member who was interested in using the A10.3 in a K'nator. Unfortunately, the T/S parameters are such that it is not ideally suited to get deep bass extension. To get bass of 50Hz -3dB requires a 0.70x scale length and at minimum 0.60x scale width to fit driver bezel. It should be narrower though. As such, it produces a bass overshoot due to excessive volume. I don't have time at present to modify the code to account for less depth to reduce volume, but that may work. I would guess reduce the depth by scaling it an additional 0.7x on top of the 0.70x already for 0.5x overall depth to remove bass peak overshoot.
If it were designed for flat response, the f3 would only be about 72Hz, this would be an 0.47x scale all round:
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X thanks for sharing...
So to get f3=50hz the need to be 0.7x height, 0.6x width and 0.5x depth?
Cheers
So to get f3=50hz the need to be 0.7x height, 0.6x width and 0.5x depth?
Cheers
Yes, that should work, and the 0.50x depth vs 0.70x as shown in the sim above should help to reduce that bass peak at 60Hz.
Being reasonably familiar with Karlsonators and the A10.3 😉, I think you should be forewarned that this would likely have a very warm tonal balance. If that's what you like you'll be happy, but some might find it a bit dull. The 10.3 already sounds a bit 'vintage', and has a FR such that it doesn't really need BSC in a simple BR near the wall. One possible advantage however might be improved dispersion in the top octave. Those drivers are a bit directional if direct radiating.
Still, a simple conical ML-TQWT might be more fitting for most peoples' taste.
If you did have them in Karlsonators, I'd be inclined to count on some extra stuffing to help control any bass peaking.
Still, a simple conical ML-TQWT might be more fitting for most peoples' taste.
If you did have them in Karlsonators, I'd be inclined to count on some extra stuffing to help control any bass peaking.
Great... Thanks Greg & X,
Still sketching the ratio drawing at the moment.
A bit confused looking for the right thickness for the wall....
Assuming I used the same thickness as original K12. Should I compensate the depth?
Still sketching the ratio drawing at the moment.
A bit confused looking for the right thickness for the wall....
Assuming I used the same thickness as original K12. Should I compensate the depth?
hi X - - do you think its worth a try to put Beta10cx in the Karlsonator12? - the tuning of my K-nator12 is quite a bit lower than what was considered ideal in one of your sims - ideally I'll have to round up an ASD1001 and fudge the recommended 3/20 ohm l-pad as there's an old APT50 on the cx currently
Karlsonator12 played very well fullrange with my old stamped frame Nirvana Super10 with none of the reflex wimpiness - also the best I heard with Beta12lta although I think that would play nice in K15 (with less LF extension than the smaller Karlsonator12)
your simulation -there might be another sim with lower tuning (?)
12lta Z in my Karlsonator12 built to Greg B's drawing
my other Beta10cx is in the little 0.62 scale K15 - in ways its bass is more exciting than my new front load 7
cubic foot horn
Karlsonator12 played very well fullrange with my old stamped frame Nirvana Super10 with none of the reflex wimpiness - also the best I heard with Beta12lta although I think that would play nice in K15 (with less LF extension than the smaller Karlsonator12)
your simulation -there might be another sim with lower tuning (?)
12lta Z in my Karlsonator12 built to Greg B's drawing
my other Beta10cx is in the little 0.62 scale K15 - in ways its bass is more exciting than my new front load 7
cubic foot horn
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Freddi,
If you like lower tuning - that can be done but at expense of flat response. Typically to go lower - make height and depth scale larger and shrink width to preserve volume.
If you like lower tuning - that can be done but at expense of flat response. Typically to go lower - make height and depth scale larger and shrink width to preserve volume.
right now that ~40Hz tuning is all I can do with already built Karlsonator 12s - other than open up the top of the slot - - but there is a removable panel which forms the output of the "stub" - would shortening the path that way raise tuning or is it dominated by the vent and vent to front cavity coupling?
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