Those dimensions are good for 0.40x size. If you have room, I highly recommend the 0.53x size with Dayton PA130-8 (single driver).
The plans are the actual images on Post #1:
Instead of qnty 2 Vifa TC9FD, install a single PA130-8 in the middle of the same baffle board.
Or use GregB's CAD plans for the full size Karlsonator and scale them by 0.53x yourself:
For testing the idea of improving the stiffness of the K-aperture proposed by CLS here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/271011-rockin-kazba-dipole-k-aperture-z-baffle-dipole-13.html#post4319158 but applied to the Karlsonator I could give a shot at compensating the front chamber volume. If I try to do that, what features should I maintain? For instance, is the angle of the driver relative to the aperture critical? I haven't seen anyone comment on that.
At a minimum, I could report dimensions for the blocks.
I'm assuming there's interest in this possible improvement. If so, I'm happy to do some design work.
At a minimum, I could report dimensions for the blocks.
I'm assuming there's interest in this possible improvement. If so, I'm happy to do some design work.
Mudjester,
Thanks for doing all these modal analysis sims. I am thinking that with the Karlsonator we need the front volume to help the bass and it may also act as the lens for spreading the sound. As it operates full range and not just bass I am not sure what the effect it. I get the feeling it may make it look like a slot loaded woofer.
Thanks for doing all these modal analysis sims. I am thinking that with the Karlsonator we need the front volume to help the bass and it may also act as the lens for spreading the sound. As it operates full range and not just bass I am not sure what the effect it. I get the feeling it may make it look like a slot loaded woofer.
After making Karlsonator from foam board, purchased 2 more TC9FDs and a 5 x 5 sheet of 0.25" Baltic Birch Ply. I also have a 5 x 5 sheet of 0.50" Baltic Birch Ply.
My questions are:
- Should I Make two pair with a single TC9FD/box;
- Should I make one pair with two TC9FDs/box;
- Should make the boxes out of the 0.25 or the 0.50; and/or
- Would it make sense to make the sides, backs, tops & bottoms out of 0.50, but
the baffles out of 0.25?
The foam version was promising but too fragile. If I'm going to all that effort I want something durable.
Thanks,
Neil
My questions are:
- Should I Make two pair with a single TC9FD/box;
- Should I make one pair with two TC9FDs/box;
- Should make the boxes out of the 0.25 or the 0.50; and/or
- Would it make sense to make the sides, backs, tops & bottoms out of 0.50, but
the baffles out of 0.25?
The foam version was promising but too fragile. If I'm going to all that effort I want something durable.
Thanks,
Neil
If you haven't made the larger 0.53x scale - make that is plywood. That one sounds very nice. Also works well with single Dayton PA130-8.
I'd like a manageable sized Karlsonator for Beta10cx - how far down might it be brought down and have some power at 45-50Hz? (like F6-F10)
I was set to make a pair of .53s, but then I decided to make two pair of .40s. Then my son and my niece can each have a pair for their tiny apartments at those times when IEMs won't suffice.
The piles of cut wood are in the foreground. The wood in the background is for a 25HZ tapped horn sub deigned by Lilmike.
The piles of cut wood are in the foreground. The wood in the background is for a 25HZ tapped horn sub deigned by Lilmike.
Attachments
The Lilmike sub referred to above is described at:
Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Very nice. Looking forward to seeing your build of the K'nators and the Lilmike sub.
I just installed my 0.53x's mounted with a single Dayton PA130-8 for a Karaoke system powered by the Karaoke amp. It is very loud clear and great punch. The bass is surprisingly deep and articulate. They sound like much larger speakers.
More folks should try this combo. You won't be sorry.
I've got enough Baltic birch ply left to make a pair. I'll contact PE On Monday.
Thanks for being willing to try! The PA130-8's only cost $18ea so that makes it very attractive. Great bang for the buck.
The PA130-8s arrived yesterday. From appearance only, they're not yet installed, they seem very robust. I'm concerned about the highs though. Have you measured yours?
They don't go above 14kHz, but most music I listen to, that covers it just fine. You can add a little mylar dome super tweeter XO with a cap if you want more air on top. The smooth mids and dynamic bass will amaze you though - that is where most music resides.
Measurements of the PA130-8 can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...3in-5in-drivers-round-2-a-17.html#post4328938
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...3in-5in-drivers-round-2-a-17.html#post4328938
The PA130-8 is a fun driver. I love mine on OB atop H-frames. No tweeter necessary IMO. I also think they sound great in small BIBs.
@xrk971 so the last couple of days I've tried drawing your plans to scale a couple of times, with a height of 15 3/16, and I can't seem to make it add up. Specifically there seems to at least be a right-angled triangle problem on the left:
h^2 + 3.0^2 = 7.5^2
h = sqrt(7.5^2 - 3.0^2)
h= 6.87" for the baffle
then 6.625" (top slanting piece) + 3 * 0.2" (bottom, top, top of slanting piece) + 0.84" (vent gap) + 6.87" = 14.935". A decent chunk away 15 3/16, and that's without even slanting the piece above the baffle, which makes its height less =/
h^2 + 3.0^2 = 7.5^2
h = sqrt(7.5^2 - 3.0^2)
h= 6.87" for the baffle
then 6.625" (top slanting piece) + 3 * 0.2" (bottom, top, top of slanting piece) + 0.84" (vent gap) + 6.87" = 14.935". A decent chunk away 15 3/16, and that's without even slanting the piece above the baffle, which makes its height less =/