Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FDs

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@xrk971 so the last couple of days I've tried drawing your plans to scale a couple of times, with a height of 15 3/16, and I can't seem to make it add up. Specifically there seems to at least be a right-angled triangle problem on the left:

h^2 + 3.0^2 = 7.5^2
h = sqrt(7.5^2 - 3.0^2)
h= 6.87" for the baffle

then 6.625" (top slanting piece) + 3 * 0.2" (bottom, top, top of slanting piece) + 0.84" (vent gap) + 6.87" = 14.935". A decent chunk away 15 3/16, and that's without even slanting the piece above the baffle, which makes its height less =/

Show me a sketch of where your problem is. I can't follow your written description. Use GregB's CAD drawing as the basis of scaling. My sketch in post 1 is kind of approximate. And actually it wil work pretty well with a little variation so don't worry if you can't get all the dimension to line up. What I do is lay out the side and take a ruler and draw where the boards go based on how deep the front chamber is and how big the vent gap at top is, the the internal separator wall gap.
 
Show me a sketch of where your problem is. I can't follow your written description. Use GregB's CAD drawing as the basis of scaling. My sketch in post 1 is kind of approximate. And actually it wil work pretty well with a little variation so don't worry if you can't get all the dimension to line up. What I do is lay out the side and take a ruler and draw where the boards go based on how deep the front chamber is and how big the vent gap at top is, the the internal separator wall gap.

Sure, sorry that was a poor explanation, here's a sketch. Basically I can't seem to make the height work with the size of the internal components at the front. I'm totally fine with "take the height, depth, baffle size, vent size, and front chamber depth as gospel and measure out the rest to fit", just want to make sure that's the right thing to do.
ghFEABO.jpg
 
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I'm totally fine with "take the height, depth, baffle size, vent size, and front chamber depth as gospel and measure out the rest to fit", just want to make sure that's the right thing to do.

Yes, that is the right thing to do. :) Match those key dimensions and aim for circa 15in tall cabinet (external) and you should be good.

But if you really want to do a "scale" drawing, use GregB's CAD plan here:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IsPCPSK6_lQ/TtU92CD8zMI/AAAAAAAABik/txissf4J4PI/w678-h524-no/Karlsonator.png

And scale that rather than use my drawing.
 
I'm considering building the FC 0.53 Karlsonator as a first project (Discounting simple OBs). Here in Europe 4x Vifa TC9FDS costs about as much as 2x PA130-8 . Which would you recommend if cost is no object? I believe the PA130 has a dip when used on the floor? I'd prefer to use them on the floor, or at least near it. The 0.4 looks fun too but I'm worried about lack of bass.
 
robert1325, I've never heard a Karlson but have heard the two drivers you are considering. From what I've heard on my open baffle setup, the Vifa is more neutral while the Dayton is more colorful (and less neutral). The Dayton is fun for short bursts and has a dynamic and lively sound. For a party speaker, I'd choose the Dayton. The Vifa is more of a sit down and listen for a while type of driver.

I suppose you could say I'd rather have an short, hot, affair with the Dayton and a long term relationship with the Vifa. The drivers sound different. If you could afford both, get them and build two sets of speakers. If not, pick your poison.
 
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I'm considering building the FC 0.53 Karlsonator as a first project (Discounting simple OBs). Here in Europe 4x Vifa TC9FDS costs about as much as 2x PA130-8 . Which would you recommend if cost is no object? I believe the PA130 has a dip when used on the floor? I'd prefer to use them on the floor, or at least near it. The 0.4 looks fun too but I'm worried about lack of bass.

Godzilla hit the nail right on the head. The PA130-8 sounds very lively and musical, gets very loud easily. The dual Vifa TC9FD is smoother and more suitable for longer term listening, and actually has a tad deeper bass by virtue of its higher Qts. It's a tough call, they are both great choices.

However, if you look at the measured response of the PA130-8, looks very respectable:
474642d1427700312-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-0.53x-knator-pa130-8-phase-0.5m.png
 
That looks like plain foam. Foamcore is different. It has paper laminations that gives it its strength. Foamcore here is more typically found in arts and craft stores, office supply stores, and stationery stores.

Corrugated plastic could work too, I suspect. There is always plywood. 1/4"/6mm material of some sort must be available.
 
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Thanks, Vifa it is then. Before I order the drivers, I am looking for the European equivalent of Foamcore. The only thing I can find in my local DIY is Selitac foam for under floors (isolation) . It is about the same thickness and made of polystyrene . Would that work? It does not look sturdy for a box construction. http://www.amazon.de/Selitac-Parkett-Laminatunterlage-5-mm/dp/B004XZ8VJU#productDetails

This is the expensive nice thick foam core board we use in the U.S. about $3.5 to $5USD ea. it is unbelievably expensive on German Amazon at 64euro. Don't use it for that price.

But this is what it is. Search for foam poster board.

Blue Foam Board 20"X30"X3/16" 950-053:Amazon.de:Bürobedarf & Schreibwaren
 
Yeah, foam core is supposed to be cheap and fun and easy to make stuff with. That's the point. :D For that price, you could buy baltic birch plywood.

Are there 99c stores in Europe? BTW, what do you guys call a penny/pfennig now? eurocent??

I won't spend more than 10-15 euros on the Foam Core if I find it, reason I'd rather use FC is that I live in a flat (4th floor) and it would not be easy to work outside in the tiny shared garden.
We do have some 1 euro stores, I'll check there. It's all eurocents now (1,2,5,10,20,50).
 
Progress is slow. Perhaps music by next weekend.

I was explaining this project to my adult nephew. I described a Karslon coupler as Georgia O'Keefe-ish and added that the design dates from the 30s or 40s, to which he replied, "I'm pretty sure it's older than that."
 

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