That's very cool. Some of the edges seem flush with the foam, some seem like the foam is inset quite a bit like it melted away. Do you think it'll be harder to glue the inset ones?
I think if one uses hot melt glue, it should be fine. For the final cap sheet I usually use PVA. It might be good to use a thicker glue or maybe use a polyurethane type glue (like Gorilla glue or PL Premium) that can fill gaps but dries a bit slower. PVA might work just fine though if one puts a bead into the recessed gap.
Once I had an MDF 6mm speaker made with laser cut and puzzle joints. That's what I'm thinking for the XKi later this year, after trying with the wood I have just received.
It may also work for foamboard!
It may also work for foamboard!
I did't find any pictures of it (sadly), but I mean something like this one:
Except for the curved part.
It can also have the slots to fit the bracing, so it can be flawless putted together by anyone who has solved a child puzzle once in life (lmao)...
Except for the curved part.
It can also have the slots to fit the bracing, so it can be flawless putted together by anyone who has solved a child puzzle once in life (lmao)...
Yes, that was same idea I was thinking for tabs and slots. That would take some serious 3D modeling of the whole speaker.
I did it with a square shaped box on sketchup...
I may try that on my free time as a project for the W5-2143 upgrade in the future. If I try to, I will let you know and consult you about the exact size of each panel. 🙂
I may try that on my free time as a project for the W5-2143 upgrade in the future. If I try to, I will let you know and consult you about the exact size of each panel. 🙂
I'm about to close my version 0.4X. In almost all the projects that I saw of this version, the stuffing of pillows or cushions has been used, someone put in this version magic sponge, or with the stuffing of pillow is enough. the difference in sound or does it matter?
Greetings.
Greetings.
The foam is used on walls that are opposite the driver. The stuffing is used from the closed end to about where the driver is to dampen the sound wave in the TL. The foam is to reduce back reflections from muddying up the sound radiation from the cone. Use both as they have different purposes. The stuffing can be adjusted through the driver cutout.
What is cheapest reasonably well sound equipment one can make?
I am teaching students coming from abroad. We have access to a makerlab with a lasercutter they are free to use. So I have been considering how one could encourage them to make good sounding equipment extremely cheap. I am impressed by the sound of the mini Karlsonator, having built both the 0.4 and the 0.56 model. I just got hold of eight used TC9-FD18-8 for almost nothing, so that will count for the first four sets 0.4 or two 0.56 for the students to start with. Linked up with one of the better, still cheap TPA3116d2 the sound is quite amazing, I just tested with the XH-M590. Any other recommendations to make it cheap and well sounding? Any alternatives to foam, that currently is getting more expensive?
I am teaching students coming from abroad. We have access to a makerlab with a lasercutter they are free to use. So I have been considering how one could encourage them to make good sounding equipment extremely cheap. I am impressed by the sound of the mini Karlsonator, having built both the 0.4 and the 0.56 model. I just got hold of eight used TC9-FD18-8 for almost nothing, so that will count for the first four sets 0.4 or two 0.56 for the students to start with. Linked up with one of the better, still cheap TPA3116d2 the sound is quite amazing, I just tested with the XH-M590. Any other recommendations to make it cheap and well sounding? Any alternatives to foam, that currently is getting more expensive?
You can get a TWS Bluetooth TPA3116 amp for each one and make it a portable wireless stereo speaker. Separate left and right with no wires. Thread discussing this here.
Interesting thought, thank you for the link xrk. I will bring that as an option.
Very nice work Spiggs! Interesting shape for the cloth grille. Really breaks up the traditional aperture shape visually. Let us know how it sounds. These are probably 93dB sensitive so should be a good match for the Tubelab amp.
Thanks x. I wanted to retain the funkiness of the apeture but felt the front with just the veneer was a bit too much. I'll report back after getting them dialed in.
If these do the job in my living room I have a set of the Fane 12-250tc that I will try in a karlsonator next.
If these do the job in my living room I have a set of the Fane 12-250tc that I will try in a karlsonator next.