Actually, no I do not. I have 2 jobs, 2 businesses, and a bueatiful duaghter. I average about 65-70 hours/week outside of playtime with my duaghter. You know the saying: "If you want something done, give it to a busy person!"
I absolutely love it! I posted the details on the Taking the air cavity to the next level Thread - posts 15 and 16.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/195469-taking-air-cavity-pre-chamber-next-level-2.html
Dream Big!
Allen
just a grumpy fatigued balding old fart complaining about the energy and creativity exemplified
thanks for the prod
Wow! Just got through it all. Artsy, magnificent build so far. I know you don't like butt joints and decided on box joints instead of screws. It just seemed like a waste of time and effort compared to butt joints or even shallow dado's using pocket screws and a jig like this.
Kreg Jigs
When I get my kid's truck out of the garage the Mikasa is my next project.
Kreg Jigs
When I get my kid's truck out of the garage the Mikasa is my next project.
Industrial art tongue-in-cheek and it's all getting covered in maple. I'm just asking if this pocket screw and glue method was considered or not? If not, why? Acoustics? price / availability of tool?
Ya'll are talking to a real new guy about waveforms and abbreviations to systems and speakers so have a heart.
Furniture and cabinetry I can do.
I have a few questions.
Why is there no "triangular splitter" on all the inside corners?
I'm thinking of making the width of the inside baffles 7 1/4 instead of 6 3/4 so I can dado and route out 1/4" from the inside of the two side pieces to prevent any vibration of these low freq. baffles. Your thoughts on this?
What if any would be the detriment to making the entire cabinet wider by 6 inches so I could ad a tweeter?
I looked for the sticky to break in the speaker but couldn't find it. Can you provide a link?
Ya'll are talking to a real new guy about waveforms and abbreviations to systems and speakers so have a heart.
Furniture and cabinetry I can do.
I have a few questions.
Why is there no "triangular splitter" on all the inside corners?
I'm thinking of making the width of the inside baffles 7 1/4 instead of 6 3/4 so I can dado and route out 1/4" from the inside of the two side pieces to prevent any vibration of these low freq. baffles. Your thoughts on this?
What if any would be the detriment to making the entire cabinet wider by 6 inches so I could ad a tweeter?
I looked for the sticky to break in the speaker but couldn't find it. Can you provide a link?
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Welcome stereodude27!
Scott Lindgren, the designer of the Avebury Horn, was very passionate about his dislike for using screws on a design like this. I choose to honor his passion. Screws do weaken the wood - to what degree, I do not know. The pocket jig seems to remove a lot of wood countersinking at such an extreme angle. Yet the pocket jig does have a strong advantage at putting the screw at such an angle to really grab into the crisscrossing grain patterns of plywood. So, it appears like everything in DIY, there are strenghts and weaknesses to consider. Additional thoughts anyone?
I will be honest with you, this thought crossed my mind many times thru out this journey. But I knew I had done the right thing when I "dry" fitted the cabinets together and they stayed together without glue. (See post #161) In fact I had to carefully hammer them appart to cut the driver cutouts and back curves! I have always been fasinated by the strength of joinery and use it when ever I can, even if it will never be seen. If I had to do it again, I would do it this way.
Shallow dados are strong also. If you do it accurately you will not need screws. Infact, of the construction methods you are considering, this is the one I would choose. But heed Chris's warning on post #139 about glueing the panels together, getting those dados that you can not see to line up! That is another plus for the box joinery, you can see what you are glueing!
I hope this helps...
Allen
Scott Lindgren, the designer of the Avebury Horn, was very passionate about his dislike for using screws on a design like this. I choose to honor his passion. Screws do weaken the wood - to what degree, I do not know. The pocket jig seems to remove a lot of wood countersinking at such an extreme angle. Yet the pocket jig does have a strong advantage at putting the screw at such an angle to really grab into the crisscrossing grain patterns of plywood. So, it appears like everything in DIY, there are strenghts and weaknesses to consider. Additional thoughts anyone?
I will be honest with you, this thought crossed my mind many times thru out this journey. But I knew I had done the right thing when I "dry" fitted the cabinets together and they stayed together without glue. (See post #161) In fact I had to carefully hammer them appart to cut the driver cutouts and back curves! I have always been fasinated by the strength of joinery and use it when ever I can, even if it will never be seen. If I had to do it again, I would do it this way.
Shallow dados are strong also. If you do it accurately you will not need screws. Infact, of the construction methods you are considering, this is the one I would choose. But heed Chris's warning on post #139 about glueing the panels together, getting those dados that you can not see to line up! That is another plus for the box joinery, you can see what you are glueing!
I hope this helps...
Allen
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Thanks for "seeing" it, Dave
+1, Chris
Isn't DIY about stretching the possibilities of our imaginations!?!
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Thanks for "seeing" it, Dave
+1, Chris
Isn't DIY about stretching the possibilities of our imaginations!?!
+1, and keep up the good work.
I personally like the minimalist look. Sleek and simple.
These diffusion blocks are going into the Mikasa? Are they taking the place of the step diffusers at the bottom and top? Are they going in at a 45 or 90 degree angle?
Are you going to use filler material? Where? I think I would leave a side capable of quick removal to be able to "tune" the cabinet.
Also, upon going back and reading more posts I see a curved front and back mentioned. It also looks to me the Mikasa is referenced here too due to the pictures but not the text. I seem to remeber the plans were for straight backs and fronts. Have you modified these?
The driver itself, what kind of power RMS watts does it require?
I'm old school with 120 per channel 8 Ohms and 170 @ 4 Ohms.
I have acces to a Marrantz amp but it too is old school and less than the Pioneer. I think it is less crisp too.
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The thread title is a bit misleading... Allen is building Avebury for Alpair12
dave
I didn't think there was enough wood for the Mikasa.
Where did I loose it?
And where are the plans for the Avebury?I'm so freaking lost.
Many apologies, stereodude27
Short answer: post #79
I, like you, started discussion on this thread possiblely intenting to build the Mikasa cabinet with the EnAbled FE126. But thru the brainstorming process with all the great people on this forum, I decided to build the Avebury. The title of the thread is: Mikasa, next? Mikasa is being discontinued, so what is "next?" For me, it is the Avebury. Okay, I confess, I legitimately hijacked this thread!
The Avebury plans are a new commercial design available at Woden Design. As far as I know, I am the first person to build this design, if someone else has not overtaken me yet!
Woden Design | Mark Audio
With all that said, if it is in your heart to still build the Mikasa, go for it! Scott suggests that the Saburo outperforms the Mikasa, and that design has been optimized for the new Fostex drivers. Follow your heart!
I am excited to know what direction you take...
God Bless, Allen
Where did I loose it?
Short answer: post #79
I, like you, started discussion on this thread possiblely intenting to build the Mikasa cabinet with the EnAbled FE126. But thru the brainstorming process with all the great people on this forum, I decided to build the Avebury. The title of the thread is: Mikasa, next? Mikasa is being discontinued, so what is "next?" For me, it is the Avebury. Okay, I confess, I legitimately hijacked this thread!
The Avebury plans are a new commercial design available at Woden Design. As far as I know, I am the first person to build this design, if someone else has not overtaken me yet!
Woden Design | Mark Audio
With all that said, if it is in your heart to still build the Mikasa, go for it! Scott suggests that the Saburo outperforms the Mikasa, and that design has been optimized for the new Fostex drivers. Follow your heart!
I am excited to know what direction you take...
God Bless, Allen
Short answer: post #79
I, like you, started discussion on this thread possiblely intenting to build the Mikasa cabinet with the EnAbled FE126. But thru the brainstorming process with all the great people on this forum, I decided to build the Avebury. The title of the thread is: Mikasa, next? Mikasa is being discontinued, so what is "next?" For me, it is the Avebury. Okay, I confess, I legitimately hijacked this thread!
The Avebury plans are a new commercial design available at Woden Design. As far as I know, I am the first person to build this design, if someone else has not overtaken me yet!
Woden Design | Mark Audio
With all that said, if it is in your heart to still build the Mikasa, go for it! Scott suggests that the Saburo outperforms the Mikasa, and that design has been optimized for the new Fostex drivers. Follow your heart!
I am excited to know what direction you take...
God Bless, Allen
I like you too Allen.
Ok, you hijacked it but as you said for a good reason. To produce a better product. The thread has been officially re-blessed into the
DA DA Daaa...Artsy-Allen-Avebury project.
I gotta look at this Avebury thingy. I don't follow my heart I follow my ears with stereo equipment. But my pocket usually overides my hearing ability.
God bless you too.
I have just built a pair of Vulcans, I will post pictures and report soon but bearing in mind the similarities between the Avebury's and Vulcans, I think you might whant to install some additional bracing between the baffles to stiffen them especially between the front face and the baffle behind.
I think you will probably be very pleased with the results, I prefer my Vulcans to either my Quad 988's or VA Beethovens.
I think you will probably be very pleased with the results, I prefer my Vulcans to either my Quad 988's or VA Beethovens.
Thanks doubtingthomas, I have wondered about that. I noticed when I had the cabinets dry fit together, the fronts seemed less stiff compared to the sides. I will be adding solid maple to the front and sides, I do not know if that will be a substitute for bracing. My concern with bracing is changing the volume inside the horn section with the space it will occupy. This is a question for Scott.
Wow, the Quads and Beethovens are no slouches either. Thanks for the encouragement! I look forward to the pictures and details of your build. What kind of Amp are you using?
I like the sound of that! But really, this thread is open to anyone who is doing a "Mikasa, next?" project. Infact it is the diversity that makes these threads so thought provoking...
Dream Big Everyone!
I use AN Conquest monoblocks, an AN Kit1 and they even sounded great with a T-amp.
I'm sure your going to love 'em, room placement was critical with my Vulcans, they need to be out from corners by about a metre.
I'm sure the solid maple will help, though won't this hide your joints?
Not that it matters so much, it's about enjoying the process right?
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