Yes. To save time, post the DC voltage on the top row of pins. Copy and paste the following list into you reply. Do not let your probe slip and short between pins.
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
The voltage is dropping very low. If you use a car battery, you MUST have a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line.
What was the original complaint with the amp (when it was installed in a vehicle)?
Have you checked the output transistors? You can probably check them without removing the clamps. You should not read anything near 0 ohms from the metal tabs of any output transistors to either of the two orange arrow points in the photo.
What was the original complaint with the amp (when it was installed in a vehicle)?
Have you checked the output transistors? You can probably check them without removing the clamps. You should not read anything near 0 ohms from the metal tabs of any output transistors to either of the two orange arrow points in the photo.
Thank you perry I believe the original complaint was no sound and the speaker sounded like it was snowy every once in a while not all the time
ill try the car battery and retest the ic I used the ground probe on the meter to the ground terminal on amp do you think that might have been the issue I tried the ground on the 3205 fet rails but when I tested the volts kept going down
ill try the car battery and retest the ic I used the ground probe on the meter to the ground terminal on amp do you think that might have been the issue I tried the ground on the 3205 fet rails but when I tested the volts kept going down
An instant infinite reading there is a bit odd. I'd expect it to read a low resistance and then go towards infinity.
If you checked the output transistors and none read shorted, connecting it to a better power source (properly fused) is the next step.
If you checked the output transistors and none read shorted, connecting it to a better power source (properly fused) is the next step.
Sorry perry that's what I meant low then they went towards infinity ill try car battery with a 10A fused next retest all test mentioned in post when testing the IC will the ground testing probe be ok on the ground terminal of the power to the amp ?
That means that the supply is operating. Do you now have rail voltage on the orange points?
The voltage on pins 11 and 12 should be at least 12v if the battery is charged. What is the voltage directly across the B+ and ground terminals of the amp when the amp is on?
The voltage on pins 11 and 12 should be at least 12v if the battery is charged. What is the voltage directly across the B+ and ground terminals of the amp when the amp is on?
Pins
11 - 9.53 v
12 - 9.53 v
The rails test from the ground terminal of the amp still OL no change
The Amps acrossed the +/- I have a reading of 12.12 volts and this is a optima battery yellow top and it maybe alittle low on charge due to storage over the winter however I usually charge it once a month during storage
11 - 9.53 v
12 - 9.53 v
The rails test from the ground terminal of the amp still OL no change
The Amps acrossed the +/- I have a reading of 12.12 volts and this is a optima battery yellow top and it maybe alittle low on charge due to storage over the winter however I usually charge it once a month during storage
17 ohms with amp powered up or not?
If the amp was on, that could be normal. There probably isn't a specific resistance that you'd read across the terminals with the amp on.
Did you try connecting a speaker and a signal source to it to see if it was making the sound that the owner complained about?
If the amp was on, that could be normal. There probably isn't a specific resistance that you'd read across the terminals with the amp on.
Did you try connecting a speaker and a signal source to it to see if it was making the sound that the owner complained about?
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