Mayware Formula 4 Uni-Pivot arm

There is a myth that unipivot tonearms, including Mayware, are not for low compliance cartridges which make high vibration energy. They are not stable in handling them, but are rock solid in the whole audible range. Mayware had MC2V and MC3V cartidges , both low compliance ,and they naturally worked best in their own Mayware 4 and V tonearms.
I suggest Mayware owners to cut crimped contact clips and properly solder them to tonearm wire.
 
HI Guys, First post so new to the site, I have just inherited a Thorens TD 150 Mk 2, not in the greatest of shape but Iam looking to restore.

The TT was fitted with a Mayware Formula 4 Mk 4. Its been sitting idle for a few years and has gathered some dust, apart from the cosmetics it has a broken arm rest. not sure if its able to operate to spec.

1. Are there any basic checks I can do on the unipivot?
2. Can we still get parts for these
3. I need to buy a new tone arm board because the one on the TD 150 is bowed, if I drill the board for the Formula 4 would there be any other Tone arms that would fit the same holes ?

Hope this makes sense can post pictures if need be

Thanks Guys

DD
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
The TT was fitted with a Mayware Formula 4 Mk 4. Its been sitting idle for a few years and has gathered some dust, apart from the cosmetics it has a broken arm rest. not sure if its able to operate to spec.

1. Are there any basic checks I can do on the unipivot?
2. Can we still get parts for these
3. I need to buy a new tone arm board because the one on the TD 150 is bowed, if I drill the board for the Formula 4 would there be any other Tone arms that would fit the same holes ?

I installed th eMayware on a number of Thorens including the 150. Parts are available only as parts arms. I may still have one of those. The lifter commonly failed so getting a working one of those may be more difficult.

It has been a long while since i did an installation but IIRC the Grace 707/704/714 at least used the same mounting spot and hole size.

dave
 
There is not much to check on it. The top cap can be removed and silicone oil should be filled in, if needed. (I use a mixture of silicone oil and silicone grease). Also I use a stylus balance, not the scale on the arm tube. The counterweight is asymmetrical, it should be rotated so that the headshell is horizontical. Take care of the plastic screw that fixes the counterweight, it is easy to destoy it. The last step is to install the antiskating thread, if everything else is set. I try to find a manual that is a PDF with only a couple of pages.
 
Thank you to lcsaszar and Dave

I have started to renovate carefully this Mayware, I have one broken Item which is the arm rest are there any retro fit rests that will work on the 8mm Dia tone arm. The uni-pivot grease was pretty non exsistant and had gone very gluey so I have removed this and will buy some new grease. I have found a manual on Vinyl engine, although I cannot seem to find the tone arm installation template as the one of Vinyl engine is not to scale, how are you guys finding the correct locations on the tonearm boards to install, any dimensions or diagrams would be helpful.

Thanks again Darren
 
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I checked my stash and all i have is a headshell finger lift.

As i stated before, the officil Mayware “manual” is freely available at the vinyl engine.

dave

Hi Dave will the headshell finger lift fit the Mayware because I am short of one of those see the attached picture. Many thanks
 

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Sorry for waking up this old thread but there is this question without an answer as I see it.

From vinylengines thread about Mayware Formula V :

”The Formula V was developed from our highly acclaimed mkIV model with the following important improvements: better engineering with much more rigid structure, damped arm pipe, optimised larger damping capacity, more viscous silicone fluid and a lockable cursor.”

More viscous silicone fluid? Would that be higher or lower CT? And what was the CT values at the time for both the IV and V?

I’ve found some ideas claiming 60000ct for the IV but is it thrustworthy? For the V - no clue of the CT more than it should be ”more viscous”...

Regards and sorry to bringing this thread alive again...
 
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Hmm, yeah, thanks 6L6 but that doesn’t quite answer the question - does it?

This is the old claim from AudioKarma years ago...

”Hi Dmalaghaes,

The Mayware supplied silicone for dampning this unipivot (and silicon is a must before you can even begin to tune in this arm) has a viscosity index of 60000 centistokes @ 25 degrees C.
Your pictures don't reveal the other side. Does it still have the antiskate devise (thread-wheel-bucket)? Did you get lead shot to add to the bucket with this?
- Mario
Mopic5, Dec 30, 2007#6”

I haven’t been able to confirm this from other sources. But what is ”more viscous” than 60000? Is it 40000 or 80000?
 
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6L6

Moderator
Joined 2010
Paid Member
I suppose it doesn't. :)

If 60,000ct is available, use it.

In my experience with fluid damped tonearms, which I very much like and prefer, the fluid level is much, much more important than the viscosity, assuming you are in the same general thickness.
 
Ok, I had to find out by myself - I hate to do stuff by myself... ;)

Wikipedia says:

”The viscosity of a fluid is the measure of its resistance to gradual deformation by shear stress or tensile stress.[1] For liquids, it corresponds to the informal concept of "thickness": for example, syrup has a higher viscosity than water.[2]”

So if there are standardized levels of viscosity - I’ll start with the level above 60000ct if that statement is correct to start with...
Thanks 6L6 pushing me to think by miself :). Lets all continue with this practice and the world might turn into a better place :)
 
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I know this is a old thread, but I have a formula IV I want to mod to bring it closer to a Morch UP4/DP6/DP8 I want to add a second pivot (outrigger ala VIPs arms), redo the arm tube attachment (top mount ala Morch), larger tube, add rotational mass (ala Morch DP8) and make it a lot longer, at least 12" and maybe as long as 16".
I auditioned a Morch DP8 and was impressed to say the least.
Not sure if I can rework the Formula IV to the same class, but want to give it a go. Any insight would be welcome.
 
Well I needed someplace to start and it is just sitting around? I had one of these a long time ago and all I did was to change the arm tube (to 10") and headshell to wood, and it sounded great. As good as a Grace 714 I had at the time.
I envision most of it will be bolt-on with acrylic rings around the outside of the acrylic top or aluminum mid sections. I plan to leave the counter weight tube and weights where they are ???