Ah ha! I see now. Sorry, wasn't being critical of your work. A very nice looking thing. I thought perhaps you had tweaked it.
Not sure if I was clear but the internal bottom gives an the recommended length of 40".
Dave, I like the look of the new Lancet... does it have its own thread? Is it related to the Metronome? I happen to have a pair of fe108es lying around.
Shirokuma,
Just to be sure that you have the design for my 10.3 MLTL please see the first post in this thread for my MLTL enclosure. In Post #7 of this thread I detail the change ( a port tube length difference) for the 10P variant.
I have several other MLTL designs and successful project builds on DIYAudio if you search. I am very confident that this design will please you.
Several members have in fact built the 10.3 MLTL design as you can discern when you read this thread.
Mark Audio Alpair 10.3/A10p MLTL
Jim
Just to be sure that you have the design for my 10.3 MLTL please see the first post in this thread for my MLTL enclosure. In Post #7 of this thread I detail the change ( a port tube length difference) for the 10P variant.
I have several other MLTL designs and successful project builds on DIYAudio if you search. I am very confident that this design will please you.
Several members have in fact built the 10.3 MLTL design as you can discern when you read this thread.
Mark Audio Alpair 10.3/A10p MLTL
Jim
Thanks alot Jim,
Really looking forward to this build. Recently fell in love with the sound of a full rullrange.
Just a small question about the port placement, 36" from top internal,... is that centre of the port? Front side?
Is it ok to round of the edges of the baffle (sides and top, just for the looks...) with a rooter or do I have to keep the edges scharp?
Really looking forward to this build. Recently fell in love with the sound of a full rullrange.
Just a small question about the port placement, 36" from top internal,... is that centre of the port? Front side?
Is it ok to round of the edges of the baffle (sides and top, just for the looks...) with a rooter or do I have to keep the edges scharp?
Shirokuma,
The port location is the center of the tube. The port can be located either on the front or rear of the enclosure. If the port is on the rear of the enclosure, you need to have some distance (say 0.33 meter or greater) between the box and the wall behind it.
It is OK to round the edges for both looks and function. A small round over is mainly for looks while a larger radius will reduce small ripples in the higher frequency response curve. My prototype MLTL models all have a modest round over as larger round overs would necessitate thicker wall material than the normal 18 mm thickness I use.
Jim
The port location is the center of the tube. The port can be located either on the front or rear of the enclosure. If the port is on the rear of the enclosure, you need to have some distance (say 0.33 meter or greater) between the box and the wall behind it.
It is OK to round the edges for both looks and function. A small round over is mainly for looks while a larger radius will reduce small ripples in the higher frequency response curve. My prototype MLTL models all have a modest round over as larger round overs would necessitate thicker wall material than the normal 18 mm thickness I use.
Jim
I'm having trouble finding the 2.5" tube. Converted tot cm that's 63.5 mm. Here its all in centimeters and all I can find is 35mm, 50 mm,70 mm, 80 mm, 100 mm.
I'm thinking 70mm should be close enough but my length should be different, shouldn't it?
Do the 6.5mm (19/64") matter that much?
Would this suffice?
Jetset 70 bas reflex poort
I'm thinking 70mm should be close enough but my length should be different, shouldn't it?
Do the 6.5mm (19/64") matter that much?
Would this suffice?
Jetset 70 bas reflex poort
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I am usually using the formulas for converting a plumbing pipe port to a slot vent.
dave
If converting to or from a slot vent shouldn't there be an extra calculation as the added walls that mate with the slot vent create a lower port tuning?
I am usually using the formulas for converting a plumbing pipe port to a slot vent.
dave
Hi Dave
Ok some like Tabaq TL? This MLTL suggests to place the port not at the very bottom end of the line, but some 4" above.
Thanks for comments
Excellent, this will be usefull in future builds as well. I was thinking about ordering a 2,5" tube from parts express, but with shipment to Belgium that would amount to almost $50. A bit silly for a tube.
Plumbing pipe is both better & cheaper than the purpose made vents from PE.
dave
If converting to or from a slot vent shouldn't there be an extra calculation as the added walls that mate with the slot vent create a lower port tuning?
In theory but I have never worried about that... many, many builds that work fine.
dave
Ok some like Tabaq TL? This MLTL suggests to place the port not at the very bottom end of the line, but some 4" above.
Personally i would ignore that.
dave
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