Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Jump to Latest
#2,461
Samuel Jayaraj said:
Has anyone been able to compare the sound of a Marantz CD63SE (modded) to a stock NAD 542 or even modded and which do you say sounds better?

I started a thread to find the answer but have found none so far.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I can't directly answer your question as I've not really heard a Nad 542, and I don't know how good it can be when modified either.

What I do know is the CD63 has a stupendous level of quality that just needs revealing through mods. It is true high-end.

If you're looking to buy one of these players 2nd hand... neither is pretty but the CD63 probably tips it on looks and with this thread as a resource, it really is a "no-brainer": you must pick the CD63! Mod mod MOD!

Simon
 
#2,462
rowemeister said:
Avr300.

I recommend the servo clock mod. The bass is much much better, treble sweeter and articulate and vocals are wonderful.

Wait and see what Simon says once he has built his.

Brent
Click to expand...

It's on it's way. Peace of cake then the goods are in reach. Just have to find the bl... flipflop. Noone seems to have the 74LS74. Perhaps I can find a substitute.

And I'm really looking forward to this one. If the DAC is sensitive to jitter, why should the servo not be? So this one "feels" right.
 
#2,463
avr300 said:


It's on it's way. Peace of cake then the goods are in reach. Just have to find the bl... flipflop. Noone seems to have the 74LS74. Perhaps I can find a substitute.

And I'm really looking forward to this one. If the DAC is sensitive to jitter, why should the servo not be? So this one "feels" right.
Click to expand...

Every mod I have done to the servo circuitry has brought good gains mate. You will be very happy.

Just make sure the pcb is right next to the servo otherwise its not a happy bunny.

Brent
 
#2,465
I have been wathching this thread trying to keep up with you guys for about the past 6 weeks. So much to do, so many things to try. As others have said, many thanks to all who contribute, you have taken much of the heavy lifting away from modding the CD63. I am just getting started on mine and have a question about the jumpers. Saw a previous post on this without much comment.How much benefit would be gained by replacing all of these with better wire? I read awhile ago about a modder who did this as standard practice(but don't remember what machine) and was touting the benefits. Also would a ferrite bead or two on each have any benefit as I go through what looks like a long painfull process. If all this is worth it I would like to start before space becomes an issue.
 
#2,466
compressit said:
I have been wathching this thread trying to keep up with you guys for about the past 6 weeks. So much to do, so many things to try. As others have said, many thanks to all who contribute, you have taken much of the heavy lifting away from modding the CD63. I am just getting started on mine and have a question about the jumpers. Saw a previous post on this without much comment.How much benefit would be gained by replacing all of these with better wire? I read awhile ago about a modder who did this as standard practice(but don't remember what machine) and was touting the benefits. Also would a ferrite bead or two on each have any benefit as I go through what looks like a long painfull process. If all this is worth it I would like to start before space becomes an issue.
Click to expand...

Hi compressit,

I also noticed this with interest. It's something I'd not want to do now that I've done a lot of other mods, but if and when I start on a fresh/virgin player I'd seriously consider it. Like the previous poster said various signals, grounds and power travel through these jumpers so they really could do with being good. I guess they're steel, which is rubbish, so there should be gains!

Simon
 
#2,472
SimontY said:


You need to know:
*Where to take the voltage from (I used the +20v supply from)under C803.
*What parts to remove (RD01 and RD04)
*Where to feed the new 5v rails (U200 - lifted at the supply end will feed the DAC's analogue psu pins, hole of RD04 for digital psu pins, and hole of RD01 for clock ref. pin)
Click to expand...

Are the feeding points (RD01, RD04, U200) for the new reg's the same as on the cd67se?

I guess Simonty refered to a cd63 in his posting.

Can someone confirm?
 
#2,478
SimontY said:
... various signals, grounds and power travel through these jumpers so they really could do with being good. I guess they're steel, which is rubbish, so there should be gains!
Simon
Click to expand...


So, had a good beer at the White Cliffs last week but have returned to the hobby now.

These wire jumper are tinned copper, fortunately. I always check with a magnet what has to stay or go.

Am planning a new PCB dedicated to the HF filter and the AD8620. Has anyone optimised the operating conditions for this opamp?

Regards, Jaap (tanned to the bone)
 

Attachments

  • marantz6a.jpg
    marantz6a.jpg
    78.1 KB · Views: 394
#2,479
SimontY said:
Hi Ray, I think CD67-UT sounds good 😎

I ought to name mine CD63-PL, based on how clumsy I've been doing some of the soldering. Can you guess what it stands for? 😕
Click to expand...

Would that be 'PCB Lifter' :clown: ?

I don't remember you mentioning the sale.. Why did you do that? Do you prefer your 67?
Click to expand...

Yes, I do. It has a better PCB layout, no servo chip, since that is integrated in the SAA with the decoder (no extra crystal or clocking required!), no discrete HF amps, and it uses a single regulated 5V supply for the driver IC's instead of the raw +/- 10V. So, ultimately, theoretically, I think a fully modded CD67 could beat an equally modded CD63 because the circuit is less complicated 😀. But then again, it's just a theory.

Regards,

Ray.
 
#2,480
rowemeister said:



RD01 and RD04 are defo the same

It also appears U203 is easiest place for the analogue supply but I would be tempted to solder directly to the +V pins of CD15 and CD16 and dont forget to remove U203

Brent
Click to expand...


Thanks guys! I just did the 3 7805 reg mod for the dac. It worked right away.

I Used 100uF/25 V and a 100nF (mylar) on the input of every 7805 and a 100uF/10V on the output of every 7805.

Now i'm listening 😉
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom