rowemeister said:
Well simon, row, and myself are all in england, so it would be fine to have a spike on top of your house as an aerial, with the amount of bloody rain we get
😀
@simon, cheers for the pic, they look very swish.
6h5c said:
It's usually wet in Britain, but I put it in as far as I could, where it will likely be moist for most of the year.
It is no joke though, the bass is deeper and the sound more coherent when it rains.
I know I'll get flamed for this, but...
adfinni said:
Good point about the spike, but we don't want to lure in the RFI, hehe.
The RCAs - yeh, they're very nice, and £2 each is a fair price. They're insulated from the chassis, I think the spacer is teflon.
awpagan said:
the house earth is still connected too, I think it's safe. But just in case, there is a 'danger of death' sign attached to my door.. 
SimontY said:
how about
Don't give me static
allan
awpagan said:
how about
Don't give me static
allan
Hehe, Australian expression! I bet you have to drive your earth rods in VERY deep! 😎
I would have buried my rod deep (sounds dirty or what?!) in the garden (amongst the bushes?!) but it's a shared, rented house, so I just went as far as I realistically could.
The system also recently, ish, enjoyed the addition of an unswitched MK Logic socket to feed the mains power. Mmmmm, sounds goooood.
Well, this is getting off topic, sorry. To steer this subject in the right direction, we can continue on about the earthing of the CD63/7, and also consider the benefits of an isolation transformer, and parallel capacitor filters, both of which I use to good effect. You will hear a smoother, sweeter, richer and more detailed sound. Try Ebay for a cheap transformer....but not too big, or it will hummmm, like one of mine does.
How about isolating and balancing the power also?
I found this on this site.
It's a small dutch company that makes all kinds of mains conditioning stuff. Look at the schematic that's printed on the box, they use a transformer to isolate and balance the mains voltage, and create a symmetrical connection around earth.
They claim that mains filters will work better and power cables will radiate less noise.
Regards,
Ray.
I found this on this site.
It's a small dutch company that makes all kinds of mains conditioning stuff. Look at the schematic that's printed on the box, they use a transformer to isolate and balance the mains voltage, and create a symmetrical connection around earth.
They claim that mains filters will work better and power cables will radiate less noise.
Regards,
Ray.
Attachments
6h5c said:
Hi.
There was an article in HIFI World about a year ago about balanced power source.
Very positive results - lower noise floor etc.
Andy
awpagan said:
I don't know the physics but it has something to do with converting line noise to 'common mode'. ?? which self cancels ??
I'll try and find the article
Re: Re: Clocks and clock psu
Ray
To bring up an old post
neutral to ground in (player), no.
neutral to ground in house(flat) ??? not sure should check.
In building complex? more than likely
In substation? Highly probable😀
If not throught the transformer to neutral?
then via negative on rca to preamp?????
Then just using headphones, stand alone cdplayer, nothing else
connected.............It still works
allan
6h5c said:
Ray
To bring up an old post
neutral to ground in (player), no.
neutral to ground in house(flat) ??? not sure should check.
In building complex? more than likely
In substation? Highly probable😀
If not throught the transformer to neutral?
then via negative on rca to preamp?????
Then just using headphones, stand alone cdplayer, nothing else
connected.............It still works
allan
Hi,
...my mods are doing good progress thanks to the mod-list; installed L-Clock last night.
Does anyone of you know if the laser diode is buffered by some capacitor?
In the Sony-drive of my old Rega Planet was a 100uF cap close to the laser; changing this was a big step forward.
Which parts are related to the laser in the CD67?
Speaking of the drive: How can i remove it to get to the pcb underneath? Couldn't figure it out yet....
mickie
...my mods are doing good progress thanks to the mod-list; installed L-Clock last night.
Does anyone of you know if the laser diode is buffered by some capacitor?
In the Sony-drive of my old Rega Planet was a 100uF cap close to the laser; changing this was a big step forward.
Which parts are related to the laser in the CD67?
Speaking of the drive: How can i remove it to get to the pcb underneath? Couldn't figure it out yet....
mickie
Re: Re: Re: Clocks and clock psu
Andy,
Cool article!
I've been thinking some time about getting me a 115V-CT-115V toroid and see if it makes any difference.
Amplimo has nice medical ones.
What do you mean exactly Allan? Earth doesn't have to go through a transformer, it's just earth. It has nothing to do with the live and neutral, which provide the actual power. Neutral is wrong actually. It only becomes neutral because it's connected to earth somewhere. The balanced solution will get rid of all this.
Regards,
Ray.
poynton said:
Andy,
Cool article!
I've been thinking some time about getting me a 115V-CT-115V toroid and see if it makes any difference.
Amplimo has nice medical ones.
awpagan said:
Ray
To bring up an old post
neutral to ground in (player), no.
neutral to ground in house(flat) ??? not sure should check.
In building complex? more than likely
In substation? Highly probable😀
If not through the transformer to neutral?
then via negative on rca to preamp?????
Then just using headphones, stand alone cdplayer, nothing else
connected.............It still works
allan
What do you mean exactly Allan? Earth doesn't have to go through a transformer, it's just earth. It has nothing to do with the live and neutral, which provide the actual power. Neutral is wrong actually. It only becomes neutral because it's connected to earth somewhere. The balanced solution will get rid of all this.
Regards,
Ray.
mickie said:
Hi mickie,
Good to hear you are making progress. Any listening results yet???
The laserdiode is buffered by a 100n cap on the optical unit itself. You can see it in the schematics of the player (CDM12.1).
I replaced the caps on the servo PCB (C121, 122, 124, 126). C122 decouples the power to the optical unit. I changed it to 100n PPS. The unit gets it's power directly out of the TDA1302 (pin 16).
To remove the transport: here is a link that explains how to replace the laserunit. It will show you how to take the transport out.
Regards,
Ray.