I agree it shouldn't cost near that much. Doesn't matter the brand, it's all within a small window of price over here. I used to buy a 1 lb roll for $30 and change.
Prices we pay have nothing to do with the goods value any more. If I compare, what I pay for high quality car parts, to what electronics, DIYS speaker driver, wood or building material for houses cost, there is no logic relationship any more.
Even with basic food, butter for example, we have sudden price rises of 50% and after a few month it is down again. It is a pure "charge what you can" economy.
Even with basic food, butter for example, we have sudden price rises of 50% and after a few month it is down again. It is a pure "charge what you can" economy.
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I appreceate all post trying to help with my repair.
I stumbled over your post, hotiron (beeing the last one on the page) and started with suggestions from the next page.
Also i admit that while i used the antistatic wristband when i had the transport out, i was a bit more carefree when i looked for the unbalance issue.
Digital output looked fine on the scope, i will check if a external DAC will lock to the signal.
This weekend i will remove the circuit board again to check my solder work to be sure. Maybe it was the heat that also got the right channel.
If everything fails i will come up with another solution. Most likely along the lines Turbowatch suggested.
Funny that you mention the lead less solder, since i stocked up recently due to it becoming more rare after the ban.
I stumbled over your post, hotiron (beeing the last one on the page) and started with suggestions from the next page.
Also i admit that while i used the antistatic wristband when i had the transport out, i was a bit more carefree when i looked for the unbalance issue.
Digital output looked fine on the scope, i will check if a external DAC will lock to the signal.
This weekend i will remove the circuit board again to check my solder work to be sure. Maybe it was the heat that also got the right channel.
If everything fails i will come up with another solution. Most likely along the lines Turbowatch suggested.
Funny that you mention the lead less solder, since i stocked up recently due to it becoming more rare after the ban.
I examined my reflow work, re-did a joint and now the right channel is back up.
All DC voltages during Stop are now according to the datasheet on the right side op amp.
So back to square one i guess.
All DC voltages during Stop are now according to the datasheet on the right side op amp.
So back to square one i guess.
Pm me, I will help you.
Before they have you changing the mech and spraying the lid
All these Word salad"ENGINEERS "are just that!
Most of these pages are indeed,
just that!!
Before they have you changing the mech and spraying the lid
All these Word salad"ENGINEERS "are just that!
Most of these pages are indeed,
just that!!
Aye. 800 pages of it at least!
Got an analog clock on
the bench right now.
Time is important, especially when you are looking for an answer!
What's your problem madis?
Got an analog clock on
the bench right now.
Time is important, especially when you are looking for an answer!
What's your problem madis?
Hi,
One mod was to change the standard diodes for Schottkys 11DQ10. I see at Mouser they are obsolete.
What is the best alternative?
Hans
One mod was to change the standard diodes for Schottkys 11DQ10. I see at Mouser they are obsolete.
What is the best alternative?
Hans
It isn't audible. In fact, may generate more HF noise.
Standard diodes are perfectly designed for operation at 50/60/100/120 Hz. They are highly engineered for this purpose. Using something else is not rational.
Standard diodes are perfectly designed for operation at 50/60/100/120 Hz. They are highly engineered for this purpose. Using something else is not rational.
Using "ultra fast Schotty diodes"was all the hype about 30-40 years ago. Quite soon some discovered that they can induce some high frequency noise into the cirquit, which made things even worse. Best leave them as they are. There may be special power supplies that are made to suppress such noise while using Schottky's, but your's isn't.
to wrap up, i made sure the dac was really the culprit by lifting the output stage and test the unloaded dac outputs. The left output LO is indeed without function. After a call with the relative, who uses this cd player maybe once or twice a year in a secondary system, it was decided to fix the unit with a dac module. I fitted a fiio one and was even able to power it with the players 5V rail.
not the most elegant solution, but it works and saved the player from the recycling centre.
not the most elegant solution, but it works and saved the player from the recycling centre.
A surprisingly good DAC with an interesting chip inside, for very little money. If you found a clean 5 Volt source it should sound just fine.
Hi shadowlord,
Your findings make perfect sense. That was the direction I was taking even though it is a really rare (weird) failure. Your solution was pretty intelligent. No extra boxes for them to fight with.
Since one of my DACs failed, may I ask which DAC PCB you installed? If you have a link it would be helpful.
Anyway, great solution. Problem solved.
Your findings make perfect sense. That was the direction I was taking even though it is a really rare (weird) failure. Your solution was pretty intelligent. No extra boxes for them to fight with.
Since one of my DACs failed, may I ask which DAC PCB you installed? If you have a link it would be helpful.
Anyway, great solution. Problem solved.
It looks like the small FiiO D03K Taishan DAC, just glued inside. It uses the Cirrus Logic CS8416, which is a very good low cost DAC.
The FiiO is around 15-20 €. Sure no high end DAC, but surprisingly good if driven from a clean 5 Volt source. I used it with a power bank and had nothing to complain. It may not work that well with a cheap wall wart.
The FiiO is around 15-20 €. Sure no high end DAC, but surprisingly good if driven from a clean 5 Volt source. I used it with a power bank and had nothing to complain. It may not work that well with a cheap wall wart.
Hi Turbowatch2,
Thank you very much! No specs, so it is probably grim. But .. it makes noise. For $35 CDN, cheap as heck. Not nearly as good as the original but if they can't tell the difference I guess it is a solid solution.
Hi rfbrw,
It has a DAC contained on the PCB. 0.011% THD, so in keeping with the price.
Thank you very much! No specs, so it is probably grim. But .. it makes noise. For $35 CDN, cheap as heck. Not nearly as good as the original but if they can't tell the difference I guess it is a solid solution.
Hi rfbrw,
It has a DAC contained on the PCB. 0.011% THD, so in keeping with the price.
Sorry, you are right. Has been quite a while since I opend the FiiO and tested it for my use. The mentioned chip is just a multi frequency, jitter reduction input cirquit.The DAC is a Cirrus Logic 4344 for about 1 US$. Anyway, the cheap components result in a sound that is way better than what you expect from a 15$ gadget. I know products that sound wrong when used in a good audio system. This one is just transparent and has no audible flaws. It may not be audiophile Nirvana, but will not insult your ears. Which is quite surprising for its size and price. I think it was a good pick for an repalcement inside the Marantz CD.
Concerning DAC's, CD player and the like, when I was about 30 years old, it was easy to compare different digital audio sources. Today, in my 60's this is much more diffilcult. This may be one factor in the permanent "there is no different sound" and the "huge differences" battle of opinions. What I can say, even with old ears I can still spot something that sounds bad, it is just much more diffilcult to find the differences between good gear.
Looks like they use an MS4344 dac, definitely nothing to write home about, but should be reliable inside the fiiO device.
The older DO3K devices used different parts, were changed as time went on, but probably similar performance.
Best chance for good sound is a clean supply for sure.
The older DO3K devices used different parts, were changed as time went on, but probably similar performance.
Best chance for good sound is a clean supply for sure.