The seller seems ligit with good feedback , but will have a look for a local supplier for future purchases . Cant seem to find a shematic for the SE and KI , are they availiable , I only have a pdf for the standard which includes the 43 53 and 63 .
Try ElektroTanya. The site is fine but make certain you do not click something unintended. Click this and nothing else.
https://elektrotanya.com/marantz_cd53_63_mkii_se_ki.pdf/download.html
Looks to be the SE and KI version.
https://elektrotanya.com/marantz_cd53_63_mkii_se_ki.pdf/download.html
https://elektrotanya.com/marantz_cd53_63_mkii_se_ki.pdf/download.html
Looks to be the SE and KI version.
https://elektrotanya.com/marantz_cd53_63_mkii_se_ki.pdf/download.html
Hi pockets 67,
Ebay is generally far more expensive than going to a store when you factor in shipping costs. That and I want to know where those parts came from without question.
Ebay is generally far more expensive than going to a store when you factor in shipping costs. That and I want to know where those parts came from without question.
Iv'e used cpc for getting parts generally , its just they looked exactly the same as the one thats damaged , just trying to find info on the difference between the SE and KI 63 is it just the copper plated chassis and toroidial transformer or are there other components that are of different , quick visual scan of my circuit boards and they look the same cap wise , apart from the multilayer ceramics look different.
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yes noted , just handy that it will look stock , think it may just be the laser thats at fault as when transferred it into my SE it wouldnt play so have oredered one online , cheap at £13 could have payed more but they all look the same , think there's one with a bigger drive motor and different main cap , but at £52 couldnt warrant it .
The Electrotanya link didn't have the full manual 🙁 Sorry about that.
HiFi Engine has the KI and SE supplements but the site is objecting to me. There is a supplement for SE differences which I can't get at the moment.
HiFi Engine has the KI and SE supplements but the site is objecting to me. There is a supplement for SE differences which I can't get at the moment.
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Laser heads can be vastly different and look the same. They may appear to be the same, but it comes down to quality control and therefore how high the yield is. Then if it works, how long will it last, and how well does it work?
Some heads are over $500 (NEC or KSS-151A), and a real Sony head (KSS-210A) used to be pretty expensive, like around $80 Canadian. Those all worked all the time. Not so with heads purchased from second source. A shop can order many heads before getting a good one. They aren't ripping people off just because you can find one cheaply. Then there is the shipping, taxes and duties commercial people pay every time. £52 is probably about right, and less expensive by far from what they used to cost. Would I ever buy a $15 head. Nope, it is a waste of time.
Some heads are over $500 (NEC or KSS-151A), and a real Sony head (KSS-210A) used to be pretty expensive, like around $80 Canadian. Those all worked all the time. Not so with heads purchased from second source. A shop can order many heads before getting a good one. They aren't ripping people off just because you can find one cheaply. Then there is the shipping, taxes and duties commercial people pay every time. £52 is probably about right, and less expensive by far from what they used to cost. Would I ever buy a $15 head. Nope, it is a waste of time.
Have you specifically worked on the Marantz 63? seems that plenty of people use them with no issue, you cant get an original one as over 25yrs old , this is what most people use from what I have researched , if you can find me a source for a decent alternative then I may get one at a later stage , the original part is CDM12.1 now VAM1202 .
Getting a good mechanism is a lottery, price is no guarantee of quality as they probably all come from the same factory these days. If you have an oscilloscope and the new mech will spin and read at least some discs, check the eye pattern and see if it's within the specs in the manual.
there seem to be a few slightly different types but job to know which is of decent quality, happy for any insight into a good supplier .
Unless I've missed it somewhere... but have you changed this physically broken cap yet as we have suddenly seem to have jumped from that to condemning the pickup assembly. Swapping it to the other player isn't definitive proof, did you try the reverse and swap the other supposed good pickup into your faulty player as a double check?
Anatech probably has more experience on all these (and many other of the Philips derivatives) than anyone here. The quality of so many of these replacement pickups is poor (it used to be the day job for me as well). By all means try one of course and if it works OK then great but there is far more to servicing CD players than doing a quick 'plug and play' swap if want to be sure it meets the factory spec for 'playability' and so on.
Mooly, loved your comment about clicking on dodgy links on Electrotanya! It's a great site, but yeah the five different 'Download' buttons vying for your attention are a bit annoying! 😉
The Sig is dissasembled as the exterior corner of the chassis had a small amount of corrosion on the copper plated chassis that I am adressing , will replace the damaged cap when it arrives , just thought I'd swap out the tray into a known functioning 63SE to test it and it shows the exact same symtpoms in the SE , so I dismantled and cleaned the assembly and applies new lube to wormgear etc and it still wouldnt work so presume its the lazer or circuitry itself , will report back when I have renewed the cap and reassembled the unit and will firstly test it with my original known to be functioning tray assembly before using the cheopo knockoff .
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Hi pockets 67,
Yes, I have worked on these and several brands using the same mechanism. I have worked on so many different machines and transports I can't hope to sit here and recall any one in particular.
In service, you follow a single path. Repair obvious faults changing nothing else. You do things one at a time in sequence to avoid bringing in too many unknown factors. You never blindly replace things, you must always have a good reason for doing something. What you are doing comes from reading or watching unskilled people "fixing" things.
Just because something works and makes noise does not mean it is fixed or working properly. You absolutely do need an oscilloscope to see the RF or eye pattern, plus any additional equipment in the service manual. You need some experience. You could install a transport assembly and it reads a disc, but that may fail in the near future because you did not check to see if that replacement transport was in fact working as it should.
There is a reason why good technicians buy good test equipment and have decades of experience. You might get lucky, but if you think what techs do is easy without a lot of knowledge required, you are very mistaken. Many people call themselves technicians and do business charging for their work. It's the good techs that have to clean up their mess. So please, at least acknowledge the fact that you don't even understand what you don't know. Without training, how could you?
There is a laser power adjustment in most CD players. Do not touch it! This is a three beam CDM 12.1 mech. There are other adjustments that if not done properly, may not work even with a good mechanism. It isn't always plug and play, and even with servos, you need to find the source of a problem to fix it.
Yes, I have worked on these and several brands using the same mechanism. I have worked on so many different machines and transports I can't hope to sit here and recall any one in particular.
In service, you follow a single path. Repair obvious faults changing nothing else. You do things one at a time in sequence to avoid bringing in too many unknown factors. You never blindly replace things, you must always have a good reason for doing something. What you are doing comes from reading or watching unskilled people "fixing" things.
Just because something works and makes noise does not mean it is fixed or working properly. You absolutely do need an oscilloscope to see the RF or eye pattern, plus any additional equipment in the service manual. You need some experience. You could install a transport assembly and it reads a disc, but that may fail in the near future because you did not check to see if that replacement transport was in fact working as it should.
There is a reason why good technicians buy good test equipment and have decades of experience. You might get lucky, but if you think what techs do is easy without a lot of knowledge required, you are very mistaken. Many people call themselves technicians and do business charging for their work. It's the good techs that have to clean up their mess. So please, at least acknowledge the fact that you don't even understand what you don't know. Without training, how could you?
There is a laser power adjustment in most CD players. Do not touch it! This is a three beam CDM 12.1 mech. There are other adjustments that if not done properly, may not work even with a good mechanism. It isn't always plug and play, and even with servos, you need to find the source of a problem to fix it.
You dont have to be so patronising , the cap is broken , it was near a cable clip that when either I {or someone else as the lid screws were very loose} had removed the cables to remove the tray had caught the cap with what ever tool they used to pry open the clip and in the meantime while Im waiting for a replacement cap I tried the tray in another unit It didnt read discs and displayed the same symptoms , its just three screws and 3 lots of cable connectors , this seems a practical and obvious way of ascertaining where the fault may lay as the Sig63 was not reading discs . I havent got a shed full of oscillascopes and test equipment, just trying to establish possible faults with what resources I have availiable to me , and came across this thread , have quite a few skills in mechanics and other subjects so know about good practice , and am good with my hands and enjoy researching and gaining knowledge . Its a CDM 12.5/15a unit. Thanks for your Input . And don't presume what I think.
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Hi pockets 67,
I am not trying to be patronising at all. You are the one talking about replacing a transport when there is a clear issue to be solved first. It takes a lot of force to break a capacitor, so you would know if you did it or not.
All I am trying to do is save you money by avoiding replacing things that are ill advised at this point in time. If you are never told, you have no idea. Often people have to be told things that are not what they want to hear. That doesn't change the truth of the situation. We all suffer from wishful thinking, and there is no end of people willing to tell you what you want to hear.
I trained technicians for decades. Truth is the only thing that matters, the only thing that will guide someone to a real fix. Some folks refuse to listen and hate the messenger. Okay. But I will not mislead you.
I am not trying to be patronising at all. You are the one talking about replacing a transport when there is a clear issue to be solved first. It takes a lot of force to break a capacitor, so you would know if you did it or not.
All I am trying to do is save you money by avoiding replacing things that are ill advised at this point in time. If you are never told, you have no idea. Often people have to be told things that are not what they want to hear. That doesn't change the truth of the situation. We all suffer from wishful thinking, and there is no end of people willing to tell you what you want to hear.
I trained technicians for decades. Truth is the only thing that matters, the only thing that will guide someone to a real fix. Some folks refuse to listen and hate the messenger. Okay. But I will not mislead you.
the original tray mech obviously has some fault, as it wont work in the other unit , the cap need replacing I may have caught the leg when opening the awkward clip with a screwdriver not sure , the original owner reported that it wouldnt read discs , have now dismantled the tray to its main components and thoroughly cleaned alll the running gear , tested motors and relubed andalso cleaned the lense again now I can properly see what im doing under a magnifying glass , have yet to remantle but doubt its rectified it , but nothing to lose , if when I reassemble the Sig with new cap it works with the original tray from my other unit then thats all good with me .