Well, you exactly made the point. As I am a beginner I just replaced the 7812 with a LM317T.
My conclusions:
1. It is difficult for non-electronic guys to do it right the first time, especially late at night.
2. Reading is not equal to understanding. Especially when not reading through to the end.
3. It is more than just simple part exchange. I will build this reg on a small PCB!!!
4. I am on the way to learn electronics - maybe a long way to go...🙄
5. Now, I am definitely known as the newbie in this forum.
Thanks for your help, UV101.
Cheers, Markus
Welcome Markus
Read carefully all the datasheets of the components you are going to swap before you do any move.
Do only one mod at the time so you know what are the results.
Be very carefull with your pcb... it is old and fragile.
Ask whatever you want to know.
Read carefully all the datasheets of the components you are going to swap before you do any move.
Do only one mod at the time so you know what are the results.
Be very carefull with your pcb... it is old and fragile.
Ask whatever you want to know.
Well
To be or not to be ... this is the question.
Can I fix the player damaged by the above mentioned LM317/337 mistake or should I get a new one?
With my basic understanding (and trying to understand the layout schematics) I would guess that the +/-12V supply rails have seen significantly more voltage (18 to 20V maybe). So what parts are most likely damaged and how to identify them with a standard multimeter to be replaced?
Do not spend too much time into thinking this up. If the explanation is too complicated the surgery itself will be, too, and I would opt for a new board, preferrably a CD57 one to have a clean starting point.
Thanks in advance.
How about making everythig like it was, and see if it works? Iguess most vulnerable parts are in 5v rail, not so much in 12v rail.
Someone has mentoned CD6000 somewhere along this thread, cant find it anymore...
Anyway any experiences with this model? It has only HDAMs, no opamps at all. (there is nice row of plates in frontpanel, HDAM, OSE LimitedEdition... you mentoined, it has it 😉)
The LM317 went into Q801 and the LM337 into Q802. So both the +12V and -12V rails have got excessive voltage.
After mentioning the mistake I did replace them with the original 78M12 and 79M12 but the player did not start up at all (no disk spinning, no display). So something beyond the analogue output stage must have been destroyed.
Those two regs errors should not stop the cdp player working. They only supply the output stage!
Brent
Brent
Ray has an extensive description on his website. Have a look at
Ray's Audio Page
under PFM The Flea or several mods for 57/63/67.
He also sells PCBs for this clock which is dervied from a community project at PinkFishMedia.
I have built two of these, one for a CD67 and one for a SA8400. They have different output voltages though.
Have fun.
Sorry Al, I meant to post the other day. If no one answers I'll post some info later on the pin number for the 16 and also the 8 on thee servo!
Thanks. So I have to look somewhere else! Had little time lately to do more than swapping in the 7812 and 7912 again and replacing the fuses (yes they were blown!?). Output stage seems ok. Player still dead.
Any suggestions what to look at?
many thanks its only a cheap clock from taiwan aint at all sure on the wiring of it as it came with no instructions 25quid any clocks better than none tho its got 16/8/4 outputs on it so it should help.
cheers alan
Fitting a low jitter clock to the Marantz CD63SE is easy. Suggest you visit Home. There are lot of info on how to change/fit a new clock. Basically here's how. Remove existing clock, caps C002 & C003 next to it. You'll require a ground connection & another for power, tapped from U272 for the new clock. Output of new clock to the previous clock behind C002. New clock should run on 16.933Mhz. http://www.bursonaudio.com
Off topic...sort of. I finally got the Lexan sheets for the top (4mil thick). The were bloody expensive (shipping etc.) and one (I got two just on case) had a scratch and was badly cut. So I do NOT recomment buying from theplasticshop.co.uk unless you can go there and see what you're getting. Anyway it looks nice and one now can see all of Brent's work! This week will see the wood side cheeks finished, now that the Lexan is in place for a final fitting. I will post pics of the Ultimate Mod. How does Lexan sound? Your guess is aa s good as mine. (It's no better or worse than the plywood I was using)🙄
Last edited:
According to his listing on ebay it says between 8 to 12vac one end of the board and on the other end 4solder holes marked gnd mck mck2 and mck4 no pos or neg markings on the ac input end.
thanks alan
]have you got the listing details? If it wants AC, it must have the recs and regulation on board.
Is it this one?
Is it this one?
Last edited:
Unless I'm being a bit stupid here, you will need to use a separate transformer as the only way to get a suitable voltage ac supply from the player would be to use the player gnd. I suspect that the clock will have issues if you pick up the player gnd and connect it on the AC input to the clock along with the FH11 (Which will give you the required AC voltage but gnd issues). This is because the clock out gnd will not be the same as the AC input. I think that nearly makes sense!
In any case, a small 9 or 12v transformer would be best. (3.2 or 7va) You can hook up the input side directly from the mains inside the case (after the on off switch) and parallel the secondary's into the AC in of the clock. 7va 12v transformer (dont bother with a 3.2va its only 50p cheaper!!!)
Once you have a transformer for the AC supply, you can connect the clock gnd to the player gnd. Now identify the 16.9344mhz out. If you have a 33.8688 oscillator on the board this will be MCK2. If its a 16.9344mhz, its the MCK. This needs to feed into the DAC on pin 28. If you remove the link U196 close to the dac chip, you will isolate that pin from the original clock circuit. Connect the 16.9344mhz feed into the hole left by U165 closest that dac. Its probably a good idea to test it at this point. Assuming all is good, you can then remove the rest of the clock components or what I would do is cut the trace to pin 1 as close as possible to the dac.This will fully isolate the original clock circuit and by cutting it short, stop pin 1 acting like an antenna (see acoustica clock hack). Test again at this point.
Now you can reclock the servo using 8.46mhz output. If you used MCK for 16, then use MCK2 for 8. If you used MCK2 for 16, you need MCK4 for the 8!
The servo chip (TDA1301 Q104) is close to the mech ribbon connector. You should see a little blue 3 pin blob (X101) this is the servo clock. Remove x101 and R126 then feed the 8.46mhz into the hole where the resistor was furthest from the mech.
That should be it!
Make sure you test at the various stages then if something doesn't work as you expected, you know which bit of the mod caused the problem!!!
I'll try and find a pic so you can see the connections in one of my players
Best of luck!!😉
This clock is much more complicated to fit than some of the others due to its ac requirements and ability to reclock the servo. Assuming the oscillator quality, it will be worth the effort !!!
In any case, a small 9 or 12v transformer would be best. (3.2 or 7va) You can hook up the input side directly from the mains inside the case (after the on off switch) and parallel the secondary's into the AC in of the clock. 7va 12v transformer (dont bother with a 3.2va its only 50p cheaper!!!)
Once you have a transformer for the AC supply, you can connect the clock gnd to the player gnd. Now identify the 16.9344mhz out. If you have a 33.8688 oscillator on the board this will be MCK2. If its a 16.9344mhz, its the MCK. This needs to feed into the DAC on pin 28. If you remove the link U196 close to the dac chip, you will isolate that pin from the original clock circuit. Connect the 16.9344mhz feed into the hole left by U165 closest that dac. Its probably a good idea to test it at this point. Assuming all is good, you can then remove the rest of the clock components or what I would do is cut the trace to pin 1 as close as possible to the dac.This will fully isolate the original clock circuit and by cutting it short, stop pin 1 acting like an antenna (see acoustica clock hack). Test again at this point.
Now you can reclock the servo using 8.46mhz output. If you used MCK for 16, then use MCK2 for 8. If you used MCK2 for 16, you need MCK4 for the 8!
The servo chip (TDA1301 Q104) is close to the mech ribbon connector. You should see a little blue 3 pin blob (X101) this is the servo clock. Remove x101 and R126 then feed the 8.46mhz into the hole where the resistor was furthest from the mech.
That should be it!
Make sure you test at the various stages then if something doesn't work as you expected, you know which bit of the mod caused the problem!!!
I'll try and find a pic so you can see the connections in one of my players
Best of luck!!😉
This clock is much more complicated to fit than some of the others due to its ac requirements and ability to reclock the servo. Assuming the oscillator quality, it will be worth the effort !!!
Last edited: