rowemeister said:Hehe
Not literally I hope 😉
Well, i must admit I am a bit worried... as everytime I need to do something in the CDP

Has anyone made a Cliffs Notes version of this thread? Reading well over 400 pages is a pretty big commitment! 🙂
BTW, was the KI ever sold in North America? Been looking for one for a while and have found none on this side of the pond.
BTW, was the KI ever sold in North America? Been looking for one for a while and have found none on this side of the pond.
Just aks for a subject and maybe some of us can help....😉
But the better way is to keep reading. I have not been able to read it all... (the truth is, in the beguining I had some difficulty grasping some subjects.... Thanks to the wonderfull team, now I am happy to say I know the language😀 )
Ricardo
PS... And I own one of the best CD53 in the world...!!!
But the better way is to keep reading. I have not been able to read it all... (the truth is, in the beguining I had some difficulty grasping some subjects.... Thanks to the wonderfull team, now I am happy to say I know the language😀 )
Ricardo
PS... And I own one of the best CD53 in the world...!!!
Hi all
could someone please supply me the schematics to build the Regs for:
LM337 -12v
LM317 +12v
LM317 +5v
Thanks
could someone please supply me the schematics to build the Regs for:
LM337 -12v
LM317 +12v
LM317 +5v
Thanks
e1roy said:Hi all
could someone please supply me the schematics to build the Regs for:
LM337 -12v
LM317 +12v
LM317 +5v
Thanks
You could start around here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1099238#post1099238
RCruz said:Just aks for a subject and maybe some of us can help....😉
But the better way is to keep reading. I have not been able to read it all... (the truth is, in the beguining I had some difficulty grasping some subjects.... Thanks to the wonderfull team, now I am happy to say I know the language😀 )
Ricardo
PS... And I own one of the best CD53 in the world...!!!
Well, early in I found this list of to do's. Is it still a pretty good way to go about it?
1) Output caps bypassed - little bit more open sound and much better bass (and remove muting transistors)
2) Op amps - fit something like a OPA2134 first, you wont beleive the difference. You can at a later date change for 627 on browndogs etc to push the sound further.
3) Clock - I have that Audiocom clock from ebay - bargain. Dont worry about making a dedicated supply just yet unless you are confident.
4) HDAM bypass - a must do mod once the op amps are changed. 5) change all the resistors around the opamps to 0.1%tol types and all the blue se caps to silver mica.
6) Work on a way of seperating all the 5V rails to the DAC and the Decoder. You have Analogue 5v , digital 5v and clock ref 5V to these. Even using 3x cheap 7805 will give benefits (trust me I have tried it) Here is the extensive reg pcb work I have done http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...0&pagenumber=37 Dropping in a few good caps like Black Gates will help too.
7) You will need a seperate +12V supply for the clock. That reg package is very good from audiocom on ebay. I would buy them to suit what you are going to do though. The package they have is to replace the 2 12V regs and one 5V reg. If you are going to make seperate regs circuits for dac etc these wont be needed in these places.
1) Also for the opamp we have been trying the LME49720HA (LM4562HA) and it is much better than the standard LM4562NA. More dynamic, smoother mids and a better treble. They have the character of a DOS circuit.
7) And all other good reg retailers 😉
Brent
7) And all other good reg retailers 😉
Brent
rowemeister said:1) Also for the opamp we have been trying the LME49720HA (LM4562HA) and it is much better than the standard LM4562NA. More dynamic, smoother mids and a better treble. They have the character of a DOS circuit.
7) And all other good reg retailers 😉
Brent
Thanks for the clarification, Brent?
Do you still recommend doing them in the order listed?
Thanks
Erik
Just a quick 'un, to say that I heard those LM4562HA's and was very surprised by the difference over the standard 4562's.
A much more pleasant and cohesive sound. Noticeable improvements in the treble and bass in particular, with more air around the instruments.
Cheers, Lee.
A much more pleasant and cohesive sound. Noticeable improvements in the treble and bass in particular, with more air around the instruments.
Cheers, Lee.
Thomo said:Just a quick 'un, to say that I heard those LM4562HA's and was very surprised by the difference over the standard 4562's.
A much more pleasant and cohesive sound. Noticeable improvements in the treble and bass in particular, with more air around the instruments.
Cheers, Lee.
I noticed this: BASS!
(the bass dynamics are also the main improvement you hear on certain music with the "DOS")
4562
Hi Lee,
Had a look at nat semi's site.. am i right in thinking that the HA's are in the TO99 metal can package only? shame they have no samples.
Regards Ian
Edit.. just saw Brents site.. i guess they are
Thomo said:Just a quick 'un, to say that I heard those LM4562HA's and was very surprised by the difference over the standard 4562's.
A much more pleasant and cohesive sound. Noticeable improvements in the treble and bass in particular, with more air around the instruments.
Cheers, Lee.
Hi Lee,
Had a look at nat semi's site.. am i right in thinking that the HA's are in the TO99 metal can package only? shame they have no samples.
Regards Ian
Edit.. just saw Brents site.. i guess they are
bigerik said:
Thanks for the clarification, Brent?
Do you still recommend doing them in the order listed?
Hi Erik
You can follow that order but IMO you do not need the Audiocom parts to reach spectacular results.
My CD53 is almost "full on", I am preparing one of the final mods (coax mod) but the sound is so good as is that I am postponing the action for now.
To reach this quality I followed this order :
Replace psu diodes by 11DQ10 schottkys or similar.
Replace the stock +5v 7805 for a LM340AT.
Clean all the +5v on every chip using good decoupling caps and coils (Follow Ray´s list on first page)
Put good quality parts on digital line between HF amp and decoder C505 (Polystyrene) R509 (precision metal resistor).
Replace opamps (LM4562) and hard wire them to the output directly (no caps or resistors in signal line)
Place some good regs near the opamps (Remove R613 614 615 616 and place the regs there. Use these : http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/regs.shtml)
You must consider building a dedicated psu for the opamps using hexfred diodes.😉
Place another Spower in DAC analog.
By now the player is singing.
After that I placed regs on the servo chip (much more detail)
Than came the clocks from Sercal... major improvement in every aspect.
Finally I placed regs on the decoder (fluidity... cohesion... timing)
By this time the opamps did not seem to handle all the info so I installed a DOS...

Good modding



Ricardo
Back 🙂
Here I'm back...
I know I'll was foolish to think I can go with my discs on my computer... OMG!
So on the base of my Aura VA100 integrated amp and a pair of B&W DM4 I'm looking for a CDP.
The kind with a normal sound with great potential, e.g. CD53 wich already goes better with LM4562...HA?
If any of you knows a bargain or a "ideal taregt" then I'll be chasing the Net and the real world for these... CD63/67 lines are on my way, maybe other like CD50 ?
Any advice is good to me!
Here I'm back...
I know I'll was foolish to think I can go with my discs on my computer... OMG!
So on the base of my Aura VA100 integrated amp and a pair of B&W DM4 I'm looking for a CDP.
The kind with a normal sound with great potential, e.g. CD53 wich already goes better with LM4562...HA?
If any of you knows a bargain or a "ideal taregt" then I'll be chasing the Net and the real world for these... CD63/67 lines are on my way, maybe other like CD50 ?
Any advice is good to me!
marants 63SE
Hi guys, running into trouble again and need help??
i hard-wired the ribbon connector now the cdp refuses to work
checking service mode -error 10-radial off as per manual.
where do i go from here? 😕
Hi guys, running into trouble again and need help??
i hard-wired the ribbon connector now the cdp refuses to work
checking service mode -error 10-radial off as per manual.
where do i go from here? 😕
rowemeister said:1) Also for the opamp we have been trying the LME49720HA (LM4562HA) and it is much better than the standard LM4562NA. More dynamic, smoother mids and a better treble. They have the character of a DOS circuit.
Brent
Hi, can these just be slotted in the adaptors or do they need to be soldered into the pcb?
Regards
Pete
Re: Back 🙂
Hi,
You could look at a USB DAC between your PC and amp. That will give great improvements over a direct output from PC to amp.
Regards
Pete
Malefoda said:Here I'm back...
I know I'll was foolish to think I can go with my discs on my computer... OMG!
So on the base of my Aura VA100 integrated amp and a pair of B&W DM4 I'm looking for a CDP.
The kind with a normal sound with great potential, e.g. CD53 wich already goes better with LM4562...HA?
If any of you knows a bargain or a "ideal taregt" then I'll be chasing the Net and the real world for these... CD63/67 lines are on my way, maybe other like CD50 ?
Any advice is good to me!
Hi,
You could look at a USB DAC between your PC and amp. That will give great improvements over a direct output from PC to amp.
Regards
Pete
Chivvyp said:
Hi, can these just be slotted in the adaptors or do they need to be soldered into the pcb?
Regards
Pete
Hi
You can do either, I have them on sockets to test and compare. The tab on the can is pin 8 btw.
Brent
marantz 63SE
Hi Brent, after hard-wiring the ribbon- now the machine won't read the disc- error 10-it shows-
Please help and advise what to check for next. Thanks
Hi Brent, after hard-wiring the ribbon- now the machine won't read the disc- error 10-it shows-
Please help and advise what to check for next. Thanks
Hi
Can you send a pic of the wiring and we can try to check if there is an error there. Also check the pads under the pcb where you have soldered.
Also what does the disc try to do? does it spin but not read, spin backwards etc
Brent
Can you send a pic of the wiring and we can try to check if there is an error there. Also check the pads under the pcb where you have soldered.
Also what does the disc try to do? does it spin but not read, spin backwards etc
Brent
Re: Back 🙂
This advice is off topic, but we are here to help.
Do consider network based streaming into a good DAC. A Squeezebox and a ESS Sabre DAC are making a lot of "noise" here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128137
Malefoda said:Here I'm back...
I know I'll was foolish to think I can go with my discs on my computer... OMG!
So on the base of my Aura VA100 integrated amp and a pair of B&W DM4 I'm looking for a CDP.
The kind with a normal sound with great potential, e.g. CD53 wich already goes better with LM4562...HA?
If any of you knows a bargain or a "ideal taregt" then I'll be chasing the Net and the real world for these... CD63/67 lines are on my way, maybe other like CD50 ?
Any advice is good to me!
This advice is off topic, but we are here to help.
Do consider network based streaming into a good DAC. A Squeezebox and a ESS Sabre DAC are making a lot of "noise" here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128137
- Home
- Source & Line
- Digital Source
- Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list