Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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Glenn2 said:


I ripped all of my CDs as lossless FLAC files, using EAC (Exact Audio Copy) in secure mode, offsets corrected, using my PCs Plextor drive. This means I'm guaranteed to have bit-perfect files.

Still don't want to take this thread too far off-topic for the hundredth time!

Hi Glenn

Hope not to cause any disturbances with this off topic but this is very interesting.

You have the same info from the CD in FLAC files... so the only difference is that you do not read the info in real time... you collect data from hard disc and buffer it to the dac.... does this buffering technique bring real improvements ?

Ricardo
 
RCruz said:


Hi Glenn

Hope not to cause any disturbances with this off topic but this is very interesting.

You have the same info from the CD in FLAC files... so the only difference is that you do not read the info in real time... you collect data from hard disc and buffer it to the dac.... does this buffering technique bring real improvements ?

Ricardo


It's more about convenience really. Instead of the data coming from a CD player's decoder chip into the DAC (I2S) or S/PDIF output, it comes from the media player's logic into its DAC or S/PDIF instead, but is still subject to much the same issues.

When you collect the bits off the CD in a PC to a static file on your HDD, there is no jitter at all, by definition. Jitter only occurs when you attempt to play it back because it is a timing error, not a data error... somewhere along the line these bits have to be clocked out of a buffer and fed in real time to a DAC, so there will still be jitter introduced by the media player's clock circuit (and more added by the S/PDIF interface to a DAC if used) just like in a CD player.

I personally think the clocking is more important than whether it's coming from a CD or an HDD, but that's just my opinion.

The Squeezebox has very good jitter measurements as a transport, apparently, but in my brief tests (playing the same music on SB and CD63 into the Cambridge DAC and switching between its inputs) I cannot reliably tell a difference. Which is all I'd hoped for really.

I don't need my PC-based solution to be better than my Marantz, but I do need it to be as good. ;)

If my PC was near to my hi-fi, I could just connect the USB input of the new DAC to the PC, and not need the Squeezebox at all, or use something like the Apple Airport Express to feed the DAC stuff from iTunes.

The Apple AE is a wi-fi link to your PC too, with a low-quality DAC, but also a Toslink o/p, but has no interface. Many people use this system instead, with an iPod Touch used as a wi-fi remote control for iTunes.

The Slimdevices/Logitech system has better support for internet radio though, which I use a lot, and is thought to sound better.

Anyway, I did mention the CD63 then!
 
Glenn2 said:

The Squeezebox has very good jitter measurements as a transport, apparently, but in my brief tests (playing the same music on SB and CD63 into the Cambridge DAC and switching between its inputs) I cannot reliably tell a difference. Which is all I'd hoped for really.


I've been using a Squeezebox for a few years now. Last year I was lucky enough to be a beta tester for the new Squeezebox Duet (Wi-Fi controller + headless receiver). I didn't have to pay even! I was going to say that you may want to look into the Duet, because it uses linear regulators, instead of the switchers that the SB3 uses...or at least, that's what used to be in there. Looking at the web page now, it appears that the newer SB3's also use linear regulators. Anyway, I couldn't imagine life without these devices. Best consumer electronics gear I've ever owned.
 
Funny you should mention the Duet.
I got the SB3+DACMAGIC knowing I could sell them on easily if I wanted to, but I wanted an immediate solution.

I'm tempted to build Receiver/DAC box, as the SBR uses its Wolfson DAC in hardware I2S mode it should be easy to take the I2S to any DAC you like.... such as Russ White's ESS Sabre board, and the lack of a display makes re-boxing less of a nightmare.

In fact, see this thread I started when I first had the brainwave months ago...

(Hey, you could even fit a TDA1543 inside a Receiver if non-OS was your kind of thing...)

Glenn
 
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RCruz said:

Hi Brent

Now that i reopened the CDP, it looks really easy.

As I already have a dedicated reg on the HF amp near the decoder, I believe I can benefit from a reg on the mech pcb.

Can you please suggest the best location for this reg ?

Can I plug this reg onto the psu I installed for the decoder analog ?

Merry Christmas !
:xmastree: :xmastree: :xmastree:

Hi Brent

I would really apreciate your comment.

Looking at the schematic I can see only one +5v track on the mech pcb... It is used to power the HF amp and 5 leds D1-D5.
Can I put a LM340AT on the mech pcb without any heatsink?

Can I feed this reg on the psu used for decoder analog ?

Regards

Ricardo
 
Cost

Haven't read the entire thread, so sorry if this has been answered. The only reason I'm asking is that I have seen a CD63 for sale. I have also seen a Pioneer PD-D6 for sale for $500-600. Now over here parts are pretty expensive(clocks from Europe, $200) easily. So would the mods be worth paying out this sort of money(probably $300 at least by the time I get everything down here). And would it still be better than say, this new Pioneer. I like DIY but I'm not going to throw my money away, especially on such an old machine.


Thanks

Brett.
 
RCruz said:

Hi Brent

I would really apreciate your comment.

Looking at the schematic I can see only one +5v track on the mech pcb... It is used to power the HF amp and 5 leds D1-D5.
Can I put a LM340AT on the mech pcb without any heatsink?

Can I feed this reg on the psu used for decoder analog ?

Regards

Ricardo

Hi Ricardo

I've been offline for 2 weeks!

You will not require a heatsink at all, very low current. I mounted mine on the side of the mech just above the pcb.

Brent
 
Re: Cost

enzedone said:
Haven't read the entire thread, so sorry if this has been answered. The only reason I'm asking is that I have seen a CD63 for sale. I have also seen a Pioneer PD-D6 for sale for $500-600. Now over here parts are pretty expensive(clocks from Europe, $200) easily. So would the mods be worth paying out this sort of money(probably $300 at least by the time I get everything down here). And would it still be better than say, this new Pioneer. I like DIY but I'm not going to throw my money away, especially on such an old machine.


Thanks

Brett.

Spending the equiv money on a 63 and upgrades to the pioneer will bring much larger gains in your audio enjoyment. The exchange rate to the uk is very good at the moment too. I seem to be selling quite a lot of parts to you guys and Aus at the moment.

Brent
 
jimh0612 said:



Hi

Have you tried pressing both buttons in at the same time and holding them in while you press the power button? Keep holding them in and you should reach service mode.

Cheers
Jim


Sorry..maybe my reply is too simple..my player is back functioning the next day..I really don't know what is the real problem now..hopefully it do not appear again...
 
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rowemeister said:


Hi Ricardo

I've been offline for 2 weeks!

You will not require a heatsink at all, very low current. I mounted mine on the side of the mech just above the pcb.

Hi Brent

I have been very busy modding my Meridian 101, so I left this coax modd waiting for your reply.

I already have the needed parts.

Can I feed this reg in the psu I installed for decoder analog ? (The other HF amp, near the decoder, has it´s own reg already powered there so ......:D )

Ricardo
 
Hehe

Not literally I hope ;)

Oh just to let people know I have been sent some evaluation second generation Burson discrete opamps. Ive been testing for three days now and I wanted to hate them. But I have to say they are superb. They don't lose out to the discrete either.

One thing that is good about the new version is they have no dc output and that eliminates the need for a capacitor. More testing to do though!!

Brent