Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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#7,581
ezkcdude said:
Ray, I'm looking forward to your measurements! BTW, I saw on your website some pics of the Flea hooked up to the ezDAC. So, you are using the Flea as the external XO? Does it make a significant difference soncially?
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Hi Evan,

The measurements are quite boring so far... only flat lines (almost) on the analyzer 🙂. As soon as I have sorted out the screenshots i'll put them on-line. I posted one shot on the Shiny Metal forum BTW.

The Flea is indeed used as an external clock. First with the standard Abracon fitted, and now I have a Tentlabs XO on it. The difference between the on-board oscillator and a Flea is the same as can be observed with many cd players: more relaxed soundstage e.g. more quiet background and less fatigue, more defined highs and sound opening up, less sticking to the speakers.

The Tentlabs XO and the standard can are very close, maybe the Abracon already has very decent specs. I'm trying to do a proper jitter measurement on both, but since i'm unfamiliar with this, i'm still working through the scope's manual and some info on this subject.

gy21 said:
Thanks, wich version would you advise then? Transistor or Fet?
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My experience is that an all-transistor version sounds a bit more tight and up-front compared to an all-FET version. The FETs seem to make things a bit smoother. Both sound very nice nonetheless, differences are small. I have a mix in my player now, with FETs in the input-stage and a BC517 darlington in the output 🙂
A transistor has lower output impedance, so I thought it would be a good idea to use it in the output.

Never mind the sometimes vague and mysteriuous terms to describe the sound :clown:.

Regards,

Ray
 
#7,582
6h5c said:
My experience is that an all-transistor version sounds a bit more tight and up-front compared to an all-FET version. The FETs seem to make things a bit smoother. Both sound very nice nonetheless, differences are small. I have a mix in my player now, with FETs in the input-stage and a BC517 darlington in the output 🙂
A transistor has lower output impedance, so I thought it would be a good idea to use it in the output.

Never mind the sometimes vague and mysteriuous terms to describe the sound :clown:.

Regards,

Ray
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Thanks Ray, I started buidling the fet version on a vero(strip)board.
 
#7,583
6h5c said:

The Tentlabs XO and the standard can are very close, maybe the Abracon already has very decent specs. I'm trying to do a proper jitter measurement on both, but since i'm unfamiliar with this, i'm still working through the scope's manual and some info on this subject...
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Ray, I'm guessing the quality of the clock has more to do with the regulation in this case than the metal can.
 
#7,585
gy21 said:
Thanks Ray, I started buidling the fet version on a vero(strip)board.
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Ok, I hope it works out allright. I'm curious what you think of the sound.

ezkcdude said:
Ray, I'm guessing the quality of the clock has more to do with the regulation in this case than the metal can.
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Yeah, I think so too. Allthough good jitter specs won't hurt, most manufacturers don't provide any data on this subject. Makes you wonder: how much difference will there be between the insides of all those different cans? I'd love to know which manufacturer Guido gets his cans from 🙂. Maybe open one up and compare its guts with a few $1 cans?

Regards,

Ray
 
#7,586
Maybe a bit off topic!

Hi,

I removed the dc blocking caps from my cd67. I'm now assembling a new kitamp and this doesn't have any dc blocking on the input.

I guess I need to put some blocking in the chain somewhere and I guess it would be easiest in the amp inputs.

Does this just mean putting a cap in the line? If so, what's the best cap to use (type, make, values)? Does the polarity matter (signal in to +, - to amp)?

Thanks for help!

Pete
 
#7,587
Any film cap will do, as long as the value is high enough to prevent low frequency roll-off. Something like 3.3uF or higher should do the trick.

Polypropylene caps sound decent, but one forum member here preferred Black Gate AC type to any film cap he tried. They are expensive though, at £10 or so each.

Hope this helps.

Simon
 
#7,588
Shameless Sales Pitch

SimontY said:
Any film cap will do, as long as the value is high enough to prevent low frequency roll-off. Something like 3.3uF or higher should do the trick.

Polypropylene caps sound decent, but one forum member here preferred Black Gate AC type to any film cap he tried. They are expensive though, at £10 or so each.

Hope this helps.

Simon
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I have two 6.8uF Black Gate AC's @ £7.90 each if you want them Chivvyp. They sound better than anything I've ever tried. Paper in Oil/Silver Foil might be better but they're really expensive.

Lee.
 
#7,589
Re: Shameless Sales Pitch

Thomo said:


I have two 6.8uF Black Gate AC's @ £7.90 each if you want them Chivvyp. They sound better than anything I've ever tried. Paper in Oil/Silver Foil might be better but they're really expensive.

Lee.
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Err, I'll take those off your hands Lee!

My discrete stage and my preamp only have fairly normal film caps. I want to try something "exotic" like this.

Could you send me a paypal invoice or something?
 
#7,597
Impossible mate. Most mods also have a knock on effect.

But there are certain mods that are the better of the mods.

In no particular order -

Black Gate caps on audio output section
Larger VA tx for audio section (KI less so)
Quality regs for audio section and dac analogue
Clock on dac and servo running quality regs
Discrete pcb (or good opamps at worst)
Complete isolation of psu's
Good clean mains

A tip I would say (don't eat yellow snow) err I mean keep all psu simple using good quality parts all over

Brent
 
#7,598
That sounds like a sensible list, but don't forget: for that solid "well-timed" sound, to ditch the plastic & rubber feet!

I think we can safely agree the blue LEDs are not quite worthy of making a "best of" list, but add some serious bling to the mix.

And in terms of whole sections of the cd player, would you say: upgrade servo section for best detail, output stage for a nice pleasant sound, and the dac area for more of everything?

Simon
 
#7,599
If you are upgrading everything with very good parts I would first upgrade the output psu and regs.This adds a smoother less harsh sound with bags of bass and dynamics (NAIM are good at this with their off board psu)

Then clocks, on the 63 the servo clock is a must do mod if you want those fine details.

The dac ana needs a low noise reg and it adds more detail and dynamics too.

Dac decoder etc with good regs and caps adds more of whats already there

The blue leds make such a small difference its really all about the bling

Oak feet a nice wooded rack or platform adds so much to the music too

Brent
 
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