Changing the stock opamps with OPA-SUN or other discrete opamps is done by direct swapping but don't expect a day and night difference. There will be improvement only if you have stable and very low noise supplies to them. Don't worry the new opamps will work well with all the capacitor upgrades.
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I've got several sets Bursons which I've had for years.
One thing is for sure, you are wasting your time with these sorts of opamps unless you sort the power supplies out.
As soon as you use proper low noise regulators and quality local decoupling caps, they will spring into life. The quality of the supplies can either muffle the performance or can really open them up into something quite special.
Dedicated low noise regs like Brent's SPowers are the way forward
You'll need decent regs too if you want to take advantage
Player has arrived
Had my CD63 off Ebay arrive the weekend, was supposed to be fully functional, plugged it in, discovered the drawer would only noisily open halfway, received a replacement belt for £2 inc. delivery.
AUDIO/CASSETTE SQUARE SECTION DRIVE BELT. 35mm x 1.2mm (1 BELT) | eBay
fitted, drawer now opening like new.
I now have the headache of trying to order all the parts for the mods, in Thorstens,Rays and Bobwires lists that don't conflict and Brents parts for HF amp, also the parts for a flea and DIY clock plus lots of those little smd ceramics to put under the board, aswell as the parts for building a headphone amplifier.
Just a note for Ray regarding the clock, as Farnell no longer seem to have part 237-024 now needs to be 1827814 or 1141763 or 9411704 and 236-998 needs to be 1835001 or 3322725.
A question for anyone on here, if you are putting a led in a circuit does the forward voltage of the LED have to match closely with the voltage in the circuit.
Had my CD63 off Ebay arrive the weekend, was supposed to be fully functional, plugged it in, discovered the drawer would only noisily open halfway, received a replacement belt for £2 inc. delivery.
AUDIO/CASSETTE SQUARE SECTION DRIVE BELT. 35mm x 1.2mm (1 BELT) | eBay
fitted, drawer now opening like new.
I now have the headache of trying to order all the parts for the mods, in Thorstens,Rays and Bobwires lists that don't conflict and Brents parts for HF amp, also the parts for a flea and DIY clock plus lots of those little smd ceramics to put under the board, aswell as the parts for building a headphone amplifier.
Just a note for Ray regarding the clock, as Farnell no longer seem to have part 237-024 now needs to be 1827814 or 1141763 or 9411704 and 236-998 needs to be 1835001 or 3322725.
A question for anyone on here, if you are putting a led in a circuit does the forward voltage of the LED have to match closely with the voltage in the circuit.
Hey everyone.
My finding of the day : too much added weight and/or not well centered on the little round magnetic piece on top of the CD when inserted is not a good idea. Today I noticed the player wasn't able to track songs correctly with one of my favorite CD when I wanted to skip some songs, either going from 1 to 2 or 1 to 10. Removing the weight helped. I then tried to make it really round as it was not really well done. Now it seems to work as well with or without it, but I'll keep en eye on this.
My finding of the day : too much added weight and/or not well centered on the little round magnetic piece on top of the CD when inserted is not a good idea. Today I noticed the player wasn't able to track songs correctly with one of my favorite CD when I wanted to skip some songs, either going from 1 to 2 or 1 to 10. Removing the weight helped. I then tried to make it really round as it was not really well done. Now it seems to work as well with or without it, but I'll keep en eye on this.
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so I've done a bit more soldering tonight. I've made the 12v regs for my CFP DOS board and a little clock divider too.
For the LM317 LM337 regs, I started with Ray's schematic which I'd translated into a little stripboard design. I wanted to make them nice and neat and compact.
So I started with this:
and ended up with these:
Pretty happy with how they've turned out
I'll give them a good testing before I put them anywhere near the DOS board.
I then used the Tentlabs Divide by 2 circuit schematic and some more stripboard and a 74HC74 dual flip-flop to make a clock divider so I can also use my 16mhz XO clock to run an 8mhz signal to my servo.
Coloured bits on the diagram just show where I've run wire joints.
The tentlabs instructions call for a unspecific ferrite bead on the V-in, but I don't have any handy, so I used a 10mh Panasonic choke I had left over from my DOS board components. Not certain if it's suitable/overkill, but it seemed to make sense to the limited knowledge I have. Please feel free to confirm my excellent choice/laugh at my stupidity (delete as required)
Next up is doing a few jobs to prepare the main board and putting it all together, but finding the time is tricky at the moment. Can't wait to hear the end results though. I'm very close to being finished and I've learned a load along the way as well as making some excellent improvements
Oh, does anyone have any suggestions for fuses to use for where my 2x12v 50va tx joins the board? Is there any type to avoid?
cheers,
James
For the LM317 LM337 regs, I started with Ray's schematic which I'd translated into a little stripboard design. I wanted to make them nice and neat and compact.
So I started with this:
and ended up with these:
Pretty happy with how they've turned out
I'll give them a good testing before I put them anywhere near the DOS board.
I then used the Tentlabs Divide by 2 circuit schematic and some more stripboard and a 74HC74 dual flip-flop to make a clock divider so I can also use my 16mhz XO clock to run an 8mhz signal to my servo.
Coloured bits on the diagram just show where I've run wire joints.
The tentlabs instructions call for a unspecific ferrite bead on the V-in, but I don't have any handy, so I used a 10mh Panasonic choke I had left over from my DOS board components. Not certain if it's suitable/overkill, but it seemed to make sense to the limited knowledge I have. Please feel free to confirm my excellent choice/laugh at my stupidity (delete as required)
Next up is doing a few jobs to prepare the main board and putting it all together, but finding the time is tricky at the moment. Can't wait to hear the end results though. I'm very close to being finished and I've learned a load along the way as well as making some excellent improvements
Oh, does anyone have any suggestions for fuses to use for where my 2x12v 50va tx joins the board? Is there any type to avoid?
cheers,
James
Nice work
I used resettable fuses like this though it causes very minor voltage drop due to its resistance:
5x RESETTABLE FUSE POLYFUSE, PTC, RADIAL 60V, ROHS Compliant 900mA-2.5A | eBay
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Thanks, they look idealNice work
I used resettable fuses like this though it causes very minor voltage drop due to its resistance:
5x RESETTABLE FUSE POLYFUSE, PTC, RADIAL 60V, ROHS Compliant 900mA-2.5A | eBay
I'll go for 650ma to match the original fuses.
Not exactly certain how I'll include them in what I already have, but I'm sure I'll think of something
new transport, don't know the cost of delivery though.
Product Details: VAM1202.12 LASER UNIT COMPLETE MARANTZ CD63KI
taken from post #6056
Product Details: VAM1202.12 LASER UNIT COMPLETE MARANTZ CD63KI
taken from post #6056
Here's the page you need in order to find which players can be transport donators.
CD-Player-DAC-Transport List
look for CDM12.1 and VAM1202.
Philips CD Player mostly.
Here in France I've got two used Philips CD 713 for 15eur each.
CD-Player-DAC-Transport List
look for CDM12.1 and VAM1202.
Philips CD Player mostly.
Here in France I've got two used Philips CD 713 for 15eur each.
looking for pcb
I'm stuck, I have found almost everything I need for my mods, but can anyone help me find encapsulated transformer pcbs like this
http://www.raylectronics.nl/pictures/cd63mk2ki/CD63mkII-KI_Mains_3.jpg
I can find the transformers OK but not the PCBs
I'm stuck, I have found almost everything I need for my mods, but can anyone help me find encapsulated transformer pcbs like this
http://www.raylectronics.nl/pictures/cd63mk2ki/CD63mkII-KI_Mains_3.jpg
I can find the transformers OK but not the PCBs