Hi Higlander,
I decided to try a couple of OPA-SUN opamps in the player so will order tonight. Are they drop in replacements? For instance will they work given that I will be making the capacitor upgrades in the op amp section from Rays list, remove the current op amps, install sockets and then plug in the OPA-SUNs. Thanks.
Changing the stock opamps with OPA-SUN or other discrete opamps is done by direct swapping but don't expect a day and night difference. There will be improvement only if you have stable and very low noise supplies to them. Don't worry the new opamps will work well with all the capacitor upgrades.
Last edited:
Thanks. Yep, I plan to use a separate power supply running at a littl over 15vols.
Changing the stock opamps with OPA-SUN or other discrete opamps is done by direct swapping but don't expect a day and night difference. There will be improvement only if you have stable and very low noise supplies to them. Don't worry the new opamps will work well with all the capacitor upgrades.
I've got several sets Bursons which I've had for years.
One thing is for sure, you are wasting your time with these sorts of opamps unless you sort the power supplies out.
As soon as you use proper low noise regulators and quality local decoupling caps, they will spring into life. The quality of the supplies can either muffle the performance or can really open them up into something quite special.
Dedicated low noise regs like Brent's SPowers are the way forward 😉
Thanks. Yep, I plan to use a separate power supply running at a littl over 15vols.
You'll need decent regs too if you want to take advantage 😉
Player has arrived
Had my CD63 off Ebay arrive the weekend, was supposed to be fully functional, plugged it in, discovered the drawer would only noisily open halfway, received a replacement belt for £2 inc. delivery.
AUDIO/CASSETTE SQUARE SECTION DRIVE BELT. 35mm x 1.2mm (1 BELT) | eBay
fitted, drawer now opening like new.
I now have the headache of trying to order all the parts for the mods, in Thorstens,Rays and Bobwires lists that don't conflict and Brents parts for HF amp, also the parts for a flea and DIY clock plus lots of those little smd ceramics to put under the board, aswell as the parts for building a headphone amplifier.
Just a note for Ray regarding the clock, as Farnell no longer seem to have part 237-024 now needs to be 1827814 or 1141763 or 9411704 and 236-998 needs to be 1835001 or 3322725.
A question for anyone on here, if you are putting a led in a circuit does the forward voltage of the LED have to match closely with the voltage in the circuit.
Had my CD63 off Ebay arrive the weekend, was supposed to be fully functional, plugged it in, discovered the drawer would only noisily open halfway, received a replacement belt for £2 inc. delivery.
AUDIO/CASSETTE SQUARE SECTION DRIVE BELT. 35mm x 1.2mm (1 BELT) | eBay
fitted, drawer now opening like new.
I now have the headache of trying to order all the parts for the mods, in Thorstens,Rays and Bobwires lists that don't conflict and Brents parts for HF amp, also the parts for a flea and DIY clock plus lots of those little smd ceramics to put under the board, aswell as the parts for building a headphone amplifier.
Just a note for Ray regarding the clock, as Farnell no longer seem to have part 237-024 now needs to be 1827814 or 1141763 or 9411704 and 236-998 needs to be 1835001 or 3322725.
A question for anyone on here, if you are putting a led in a circuit does the forward voltage of the LED have to match closely with the voltage in the circuit.
Hey everyone.
My finding of the day : too much added weight and/or not well centered on the little round magnetic piece on top of the CD when inserted is not a good idea. Today I noticed the player wasn't able to track songs correctly with one of my favorite CD when I wanted to skip some songs, either going from 1 to 2 or 1 to 10. Removing the weight helped. I then tried to make it really round as it was not really well done. Now it seems to work as well with or without it, but I'll keep en eye on this.
My finding of the day : too much added weight and/or not well centered on the little round magnetic piece on top of the CD when inserted is not a good idea. Today I noticed the player wasn't able to track songs correctly with one of my favorite CD when I wanted to skip some songs, either going from 1 to 2 or 1 to 10. Removing the weight helped. I then tried to make it really round as it was not really well done. Now it seems to work as well with or without it, but I'll keep en eye on this.
Last edited:
Fitted 6x16v x470 uf rubycons to my servo ics tonight plays fine much improved sq behaves strange @ switch off , other fiited a nichicon on the transport not sure of value.used a 470uf6.3v .
cheers guys alan
cheers guys alan
so I've done a bit more soldering tonight. I've made the 12v regs for my CFP DOS board and a little clock divider too.
For the LM317 LM337 regs, I started with Ray's schematic which I'd translated into a little stripboard design. I wanted to make them nice and neat and compact.
So I started with this:
and ended up with these:
Pretty happy with how they've turned out 🙂
I'll give them a good testing before I put them anywhere near the DOS board.
I then used the Tentlabs Divide by 2 circuit schematic and some more stripboard and a 74HC74 dual flip-flop to make a clock divider so I can also use my 16mhz XO clock to run an 8mhz signal to my servo.
Coloured bits on the diagram just show where I've run wire joints.
The tentlabs instructions call for a unspecific ferrite bead on the V-in, but I don't have any handy, so I used a 10mh Panasonic choke I had left over from my DOS board components. Not certain if it's suitable/overkill, but it seemed to make sense to the limited knowledge I have. Please feel free to confirm my excellent choice/laugh at my stupidity (delete as required)
Next up is doing a few jobs to prepare the main board and putting it all together, but finding the time is tricky at the moment. Can't wait to hear the end results though. I'm very close to being finished and I've learned a load along the way as well as making some excellent improvements 🙂
Oh, does anyone have any suggestions for fuses to use for where my 2x12v 50va tx joins the board? Is there any type to avoid?
cheers,
James
For the LM317 LM337 regs, I started with Ray's schematic which I'd translated into a little stripboard design. I wanted to make them nice and neat and compact.
So I started with this:

and ended up with these:


Pretty happy with how they've turned out 🙂
I'll give them a good testing before I put them anywhere near the DOS board.
I then used the Tentlabs Divide by 2 circuit schematic and some more stripboard and a 74HC74 dual flip-flop to make a clock divider so I can also use my 16mhz XO clock to run an 8mhz signal to my servo.
Coloured bits on the diagram just show where I've run wire joints.

The tentlabs instructions call for a unspecific ferrite bead on the V-in, but I don't have any handy, so I used a 10mh Panasonic choke I had left over from my DOS board components. Not certain if it's suitable/overkill, but it seemed to make sense to the limited knowledge I have. Please feel free to confirm my excellent choice/laugh at my stupidity (delete as required)
Next up is doing a few jobs to prepare the main board and putting it all together, but finding the time is tricky at the moment. Can't wait to hear the end results though. I'm very close to being finished and I've learned a load along the way as well as making some excellent improvements 🙂
Oh, does anyone have any suggestions for fuses to use for where my 2x12v 50va tx joins the board? Is there any type to avoid?
cheers,
James
Nice work 🙂Oh, does anyone have any suggestions for fuses to use for where my 2x12v 50va tx joins the board? Is there any type to avoid?
I used resettable fuses like this though it causes very minor voltage drop due to its resistance:
5x RESETTABLE FUSE POLYFUSE, PTC, RADIAL 60V, ROHS Compliant 900mA-2.5A | eBay
Last edited:
Thanks, they look ideal 🙂Nice work 🙂
I used resettable fuses like this though it causes very minor voltage drop due to its resistance:
5x RESETTABLE FUSE POLYFUSE, PTC, RADIAL 60V, ROHS Compliant 900mA-2.5A | eBay
I'll go for 650ma to match the original fuses.
Not exactly certain how I'll include them in what I already have, but I'm sure I'll think of something 🙂
Just a note for Ray regarding the clock, as Farnell no longer seem to have part 237-024 now needs to be 1827814 or 1141763 or 9411704 and 236-998 needs to be 1835001 or 3322725.
Thanks for pointing that out, i'll update the partslist.
Ray
Hi all
Just put a new laser in my CD67, and it worked for about 30 seconds, then back to ERR 02. Any ideas? Or failing that, anybody got a complete transport they want to sell.
Thanks
Just put a new laser in my CD67, and it worked for about 30 seconds, then back to ERR 02. Any ideas? Or failing that, anybody got a complete transport they want to sell.
Thanks
which CD players used the same transport as the CD63/CD67?
Must be a few options with just buying another player cheap?
I've been considering it cos my transport, while it doesn't have any issues with reading, it always spins the discs a bit wonky and can be a bit noisy at times
Must be a few options with just buying another player cheap?
I've been considering it cos my transport, while it doesn't have any issues with reading, it always spins the discs a bit wonky and can be a bit noisy at times
new transport, don't know the cost of delivery though.
Product Details: VAM1202.12 LASER UNIT COMPLETE MARANTZ CD63KI
taken from post #6056
Product Details: VAM1202.12 LASER UNIT COMPLETE MARANTZ CD63KI
taken from post #6056
New one didn't last 5 minutes, so I think I'm looking for another problem. Will start backtracking tonight to make sure all voltage supplies are there.
Here's the page you need in order to find which players can be transport donators.
CD-Player-DAC-Transport List
look for CDM12.1 and VAM1202.
Philips CD Player mostly.
Here in France I've got two used Philips CD 713 for 15eur each.
CD-Player-DAC-Transport List
look for CDM12.1 and VAM1202.
Philips CD Player mostly.
Here in France I've got two used Philips CD 713 for 15eur each.
Excellent link, thanks Luke 🙂Here's the page you need in order to find which players can be transport donators.
CD-Player-DAC-Transport List
look for CDM12.1 and VAM1202.
Philips CD Player mostly.
Here in France I've got two used Philips CD 713 for 15eur each.
looking for pcb
I'm stuck, I have found almost everything I need for my mods, but can anyone help me find encapsulated transformer pcbs like this
http://www.raylectronics.nl/pictures/cd63mk2ki/CD63mkII-KI_Mains_3.jpg
I can find the transformers OK but not the PCBs
I'm stuck, I have found almost everything I need for my mods, but can anyone help me find encapsulated transformer pcbs like this
http://www.raylectronics.nl/pictures/cd63mk2ki/CD63mkII-KI_Mains_3.jpg
I can find the transformers OK but not the PCBs
- Home
- Source & Line
- Digital Source
- Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list