IMHO I don't think you can isolate U309 (earth) from the stock TX as this is also an earthing point for the two secondary winding for the opamps. May be James can confirm this from his practical experience.
Not very clear on your 2nd question
Yeah, I'm sure I left the U309 earth in place and just isolated the standard tx 10.9v +- by removing the fuses. I should probably put some other fuses back in at some point, but that's another story...
I'm running 6 x 9v +- regs for the servos in mine. It seems the servos aren't fussy about the specific voltage as long as that voltage is stable. I guess it's just an issue of extra heat with using a lower voltage regulator? but I don't seem to have an issue with 9v regs and I run my player for 8 hours a day typically. If it were me, I'd stick with the 8v ones and just keep an eye on the temps.
I'm running 6 x 9v +- regs for the servos in mine. It seems the servos aren't fussy about the specific voltage as long as that voltage is stable. I guess it's just an issue of extra heat with using a lower voltage regulator? but I don't seem to have an issue with 9v regs and I run my player for 8 hours a day typically. If it were me, I'd stick with the 8v ones and just keep an eye on the temps.
Your 50va TX will be sitting at a theoretical 16V DC after rectification but in reality it will be more like >18V due to the regulation of the TX, so 12V regs on your servos is not a problem.
There is no "Earth" in the player It's referred to as 0V or Ground.
re 50vatx
Earth o v lol I know what I mean,
I may run 6 12v regs 2 per chip 6v enough headroom id say the 50va tx was 15 quid from maplins.
thx highlander and dwjames,
Your 50va TX will be sitting at a theoretical 16V DC after rectification but in reality it will be more like >18V due to the regulation of the TX, so 12V regs on your servos is not a problem.
There is no "Earth" in the player It's referred to as 0V or Ground.
Earth o v lol I know what I mean,
I may run 6 12v regs 2 per chip 6v enough headroom id say the 50va tx was 15 quid from maplins.
thx highlander and dwjames,
Newbie with CD67
Hi All
Just bought a CD67 with the laser error, so I've ordered one to fit.
I can solder well enough, and have done quite a bit of component changes on PCB's, but I'm electrical not electronic by background.
I want to mod my CD67, it cost me £15 to buy, £18 for the laser mechanism, and its in excellent condition, so not a bad first project.
However, whilst looking at this post, there are over a thousand pages to look through. Whilst I realise you guys are not personal service engineers to the outside world, is there an 'idiots guide' to doing mods on this unit that you perhaps have embedded earlier so I can give it a start. It's a bit daunting at first, and solder sucker and (temperature controlled) soldering station, big desklit magnifying glass are poised waiting to start the mods, that'll at least get me started. I've also seen a lot of people talking about replacing electrolytic capacitors with normal ones, but audiophile grade. Why?
Know this is a large first post and I bow to your knowledge regarding the movement of electrons in small components.
Thanks in advance for any of you kind enough to reply.
Hi All
Just bought a CD67 with the laser error, so I've ordered one to fit.
I can solder well enough, and have done quite a bit of component changes on PCB's, but I'm electrical not electronic by background.
I want to mod my CD67, it cost me £15 to buy, £18 for the laser mechanism, and its in excellent condition, so not a bad first project.
However, whilst looking at this post, there are over a thousand pages to look through. Whilst I realise you guys are not personal service engineers to the outside world, is there an 'idiots guide' to doing mods on this unit that you perhaps have embedded earlier so I can give it a start. It's a bit daunting at first, and solder sucker and (temperature controlled) soldering station, big desklit magnifying glass are poised waiting to start the mods, that'll at least get me started. I've also seen a lot of people talking about replacing electrolytic capacitors with normal ones, but audiophile grade. Why?
Know this is a large first post and I bow to your knowledge regarding the movement of electrons in small components.
Thanks in advance for any of you kind enough to reply.
Hi Bish789,
I'm a bit tired, so will answer quickly.
Best advise I can give you right now, is to have a look at Ray's website : Ray's Audio Page
You can find his latest mod list for the CD57/67 there (and many other useful thing).
That's what I've followed and my player is way better now.
Problem is, I also got addicted to modding, started dealing with my amp, and I'm now looking at modding my CD57 further.
I'm a bit tired, so will answer quickly.
Best advise I can give you right now, is to have a look at Ray's website : Ray's Audio Page
You can find his latest mod list for the CD57/67 there (and many other useful thing).
That's what I've followed and my player is way better now.
Problem is, I also got addicted to modding, started dealing with my amp, and I'm now looking at modding my CD57 further.
@bish789 You'd better ask as many questions as you need. That's the aim of this thread.
About my CD57. I swapped my laser (again) and put a less old VAM1202 this time. (hoping less skiping on scratched CDs) While at it, I also added some damping material on the ... small round thing that comes on top of the CD when you put one in. Some fitted glue or a coin. 50cents of euro was almost the good size. Can't even name that in french.
I also took some measure in order to put the soundcare superspike as the biggest equilateral triangle possible under the player. Is that important ?
I don't know what changed something, but the bass I felt I loss when I first put the new feet came back. It now sounds way better
More modding tomorow, but on the amp side, farnell delivery is planned.
About my CD57. I swapped my laser (again) and put a less old VAM1202 this time. (hoping less skiping on scratched CDs) While at it, I also added some damping material on the ... small round thing that comes on top of the CD when you put one in. Some fitted glue or a coin. 50cents of euro was almost the good size. Can't even name that in french.
I also took some measure in order to put the soundcare superspike as the biggest equilateral triangle possible under the player. Is that important ?
I don't know what changed something, but the bass I felt I loss when I first put the new feet came back. It now sounds way better
More modding tomorow, but on the amp side, farnell delivery is planned.
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After few days I was very impressed with the improvement of the player. It was much more musical and cleaner sounding. In fact I was enjoying it so much that with hesitation I opened it up again for further mods.
Yesterday I finally got to it and did this:
HDAM & OPAMPS
C611 - C614..................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v
DAC
CD04............................................removed
CD05............................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v + 47n cer.
CD06............................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v + 47n cer.
CD07............................................removed
CD15/CD16.................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v
HF-amp
C504.............................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Decoder
C510/C511...................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Servo & Vref
C120.............................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
C122.............................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
After this mod I dont know what to think. The sound seems a bit lifeless. Maybe it needs more time to burn-in. Does anybody know what is the minimum burn-in time for those Rubycons?
After I put the player together, the display was dead. So I opened the player again to find the cause.
I found that the brown wire of the toroid transformer, feeding the display, had broken loose. Damn thing is hard to solder back. Had to scrape the wire and set the solder station to maximum heat for the thing to get decent contact.
After this the display was working again.
One of the first decent upgrades is to change the opamps for something like lm 4562s or lme 49720ha decouple with rubycon 16v 470uf zlg and bypass the hdam, I used cnc billet phonos standard opamps are pure pants. Fit 8 pin dil sockets for your opamps so you can do some opamp rolling .
cheers alan
cheers alan
Hi Higlander,
I decided to try a couple of OPA-SUN opamps in the player so will order tonight. Are they drop in replacements? For instance will they work given that I will be making the capacitor upgrades in the op amp section from Rays list, remove the current op amps, install sockets and then plug in the OPA-SUNs. Thanks.
I decided to try a couple of OPA-SUN opamps in the player so will order tonight. Are they drop in replacements? For instance will they work given that I will be making the capacitor upgrades in the op amp section from Rays list, remove the current op amps, install sockets and then plug in the OPA-SUNs. Thanks.
I've got several sets Bursons which I've had for years.
One thing is for sure, you are wasting your time with these sorts of opamps unless you sort the power supplies out.
As soon as you use proper low noise regulators and quality local decoupling caps, they will spring into life. The quality of the supplies can either muffle the performance or can really open them up into something quite special.
Dedicated low noise regs like Brent's SPowers are the way forward
One thing is for sure, you are wasting your time with these sorts of opamps unless you sort the power supplies out.
As soon as you use proper low noise regulators and quality local decoupling caps, they will spring into life. The quality of the supplies can either muffle the performance or can really open them up into something quite special.
Dedicated low noise regs like Brent's SPowers are the way forward
I also removed CD05 and CD06 (47n cer.). Put CD04 and CD07 (Rubycon ZLG) in their place. Then I mounted the 47n cer. (I removed earlier from CD05/CD06) across CD04 and CD07 under the board. The rule is to get the caps as close to the pin you are decoupling. You see on the diagram that CD04/CD05 are in parallel, also CD06/CD07.