anyone tried this shunt? http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=18991#post18991
Ive used it twice and its very similar to the finesse that Fred recommended.
Have finished with cd6000 and still working on cd67se.
Went to http://audioworkshop.com.hk/index_en.htm
AndoOrdered some cheap OSCONS and elnas, some soft recovery diodes and either of their clocks, ones more expensive and claims to be very good.
Anyway, Ive done a few mods now and I think these players can sound amazing for a low cost.
Heres what Ive done.
Bypass Hdam. (cd67se not cd6000)
mute relays (good circuit on this thread but I cant find it anymore)
LM6172 opamps, will try lm4562 soon.
All decoupling caps replaced with OSCONS for digital or Silmics in analog.
3 12 0 0 12 transformers.
One for analog +-12V and +5V dac using LM317 and 337
One for clock and decoder (two separate windings)
One for dac (two separate windings)
All digital used LM7805 and separate bridges of soft recovery diodes, panasonic FC and rubycon ZL from scapped computer kit.
Anyway at first I didnt like the cd6000 but its growing on me. It seems more subdued and laid back. The 67 has more pronounced bass and forward midrange which seems kinda more hifi at first and appealing, but I dont think its as natural as the 6000. 6000 is more like my cd650 (tda1541). I still have alot of work to do on the 67 and suspect rays disrete output and a new clock will rectify most of its short comings. Separate regulated supplies will help too im sure.
Anyway thats all for now, good luck with your mods!
Ive used it twice and its very similar to the finesse that Fred recommended.
Have finished with cd6000 and still working on cd67se.
Went to http://audioworkshop.com.hk/index_en.htm
AndoOrdered some cheap OSCONS and elnas, some soft recovery diodes and either of their clocks, ones more expensive and claims to be very good.
Anyway, Ive done a few mods now and I think these players can sound amazing for a low cost.
Heres what Ive done.
Bypass Hdam. (cd67se not cd6000)
mute relays (good circuit on this thread but I cant find it anymore)
LM6172 opamps, will try lm4562 soon.
All decoupling caps replaced with OSCONS for digital or Silmics in analog.
3 12 0 0 12 transformers.
One for analog +-12V and +5V dac using LM317 and 337
One for clock and decoder (two separate windings)
One for dac (two separate windings)
All digital used LM7805 and separate bridges of soft recovery diodes, panasonic FC and rubycon ZL from scapped computer kit.
Anyway at first I didnt like the cd6000 but its growing on me. It seems more subdued and laid back. The 67 has more pronounced bass and forward midrange which seems kinda more hifi at first and appealing, but I dont think its as natural as the 6000. 6000 is more like my cd650 (tda1541). I still have alot of work to do on the 67 and suspect rays disrete output and a new clock will rectify most of its short comings. Separate regulated supplies will help too im sure.
Anyway thats all for now, good luck with your mods!
martin clark said:TDL - for a cheap'n' easy improvement across the board, try this:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html
</shameless plug>
It cleans-up the supply to the existing clock, and will help whatever you do in future. If you try it and like it, the next thing to do is replace the orange mylar caps in the output stage with the same values in polystyrene or polypropylene caps. After that, give the DAC the three separate 5v regs it needs.
All this can be done for pennies, and helps right across the board, as well as tighten-up the flabby CD63 bass. Easy, and we'll hold your hand if needed
I've got a CD67SE ... but you keep mentioning the CD63.
Does this still work ?
I sortoff understand what you're saying there, my electronics class was years back
In short I have to:
- Add a capacitator (10uF) over pins 2 and 27
- Cut the track between pin 2 and CD02
Another question, if and when I dicide to upgrade the clock, do I have to undo this mod or not ?
Yes it should still work on the CD67. Don't cut the track if the risk of permanent damage worries you, it has only marginal effect.
Yes, you can leave the cap in place if you re-clock later. The added cap across the psu pins still helps this section of the dac, because it is is used to drive the clock signal fan-out to the other chips that depend on it.
Yes, you can leave the cap in place if you re-clock later. The added cap across the psu pins still helps this section of the dac, because it is is used to drive the clock signal fan-out to the other chips that depend on it.
Yes remove R613-R616. Make a note of which resistor has +12V and -12V. Solder both regs into two of the holes (+/-) at the opamp side of the removed resistors. Then once these are in bridge with some wire from one reg to the appropriate spot so the other opamp can recieve the same voltage IE +12v reg soldered into R613 and then bridged to R614 (solder -ve reg into R616). For now you can use the +/- 20V from C803/C804 and maybe upgrade at a later date.
Remove C806 and C805 as these are not used now. Before you switch on I would recommend removing the opamps so when you power it up you can check the voltages with out any damaged caused to them if you have done it wrong. PIN 8 = +12V & PIN 4 = -12V
Simons opamps are fitted with 2X 16V 1000uF BG caps. These were available at the time and were ideal. Its easier to fit four smaller values EG 4X 470uF = 940uF per V rail
Brent
Remove C806 and C805 as these are not used now. Before you switch on I would recommend removing the opamps so when you power it up you can check the voltages with out any damaged caused to them if you have done it wrong. PIN 8 = +12V & PIN 4 = -12V
Simons opamps are fitted with 2X 16V 1000uF BG caps. These were available at the time and were ideal. Its easier to fit four smaller values EG 4X 470uF = 940uF per V rail
Brent
Thanks for that Brent,
Could you explain to me why there is a -12V reg?
Is it there to provide a negative voltage, or is it there just to provide an electrical path away from the opamp and it's just used to reduce noise in the circuit?
Also, I have made a 12V superraygulator, but have had problems building a -12V version. Is the positive reg the most important of the two, or are they equally important?
Thanks,
Simon (Oz)
Could you explain to me why there is a -12V reg?
Is it there to provide a negative voltage, or is it there just to provide an electrical path away from the opamp and it's just used to reduce noise in the circuit?
Also, I have made a 12V superraygulator, but have had problems building a -12V version. Is the positive reg the most important of the two, or are they equally important?
Thanks,
Simon (Oz)
Hi Ozzy Simon
They are equally important. The op amps have no ground reference on the supply rails and are actually running on 24V (across the supply rails). So you need both regs the same to get full benefit.
Also take note that the pin outs of -ve regs are different to +ve regs
+ve = I G O
-ve = I O G
Brent
They are equally important. The op amps have no ground reference on the supply rails and are actually running on 24V (across the supply rails). So you need both regs the same to get full benefit.
Also take note that the pin outs of -ve regs are different to +ve regs
+ve = I G O
-ve = I O G
Brent
Cool thanks,
I'll have to try to make another -12V Raygulator. I fried a transistor on my last attempt. I thought I wired it correctly but obviously not.
In hindsight, if I tried to send +15V through the input maybe that was the problem. Yep, Reviewing Rays specs shows me that I needed to feed it with a negative voltage.
Good things to learn when things arne't yet connected to the CD player.
BTW, I've just ordered a number of BG caps, some for replacements and some for the separate power supply. I also ordered 2 Shinkoh 51ohm resistors to come straight off U210/14 and go straight to the outputs. Should be fun as long as I can get my + and - right
Simon (Oz)
I'll have to try to make another -12V Raygulator. I fried a transistor on my last attempt. I thought I wired it correctly but obviously not.
In hindsight, if I tried to send +15V through the input maybe that was the problem. Yep, Reviewing Rays specs shows me that I needed to feed it with a negative voltage.
Good things to learn when things arne't yet connected to the CD player.
BTW, I've just ordered a number of BG caps, some for replacements and some for the separate power supply. I also ordered 2 Shinkoh 51ohm resistors to come straight off U210/14 and go straight to the outputs. Should be fun as long as I can get my + and - right
Simon (Oz)
Are there any big differences between the different super clocks ?
I found the Tentlabs, Elsa Kwak and the Flea ... any more ?
Btw, I'm going to change the opamps for OPA2134s, good or bad idea ?
I also made to regulater based on the 317/337, installing that tomorrow.
I'll keep you guys posted
I found the Tentlabs, Elsa Kwak and the Flea ... any more ?
Btw, I'm going to change the opamps for OPA2134s, good or bad idea ?
I also made to regulater based on the 317/337, installing that tomorrow.
I'll keep you guys posted
TDLofCC said:Are there any big differences between the different super clocks ?
I found the Tentlabs, Elsa Kwak and the Flea ... any more ?
Btw, I'm going to change the opamps for OPA2134s, good or bad idea ?
I also made to regulater based on the 317/337, installing that tomorrow.
I'll keep you guys posted
Audiocom Superclock. This will be better (but more expensive) than the above. It appears to be more complex. You can buy Superclock mk3 on Ebay for £90.
Simon