)
Malefoda said:
One thing that I've not seen mentioned here, and which may sway you towards the Tent clock, is that it can be configured to give a separate output with 1/2 the clock frequency.
This is not useful for a CD57/67, but for the CD53/63 you could re-clock the servo with this output as it runs at half the frequency of the DAC.
I think Brent and Simon have done this by bolting on divider circuits to their clocks, but it can all be done on the Tent board. Guido is very helpful and will probably supply it like this if you ask, or at the very least tell you what to do.
You should use coax for the long run to the servo and put the clock board near the DAC. If the connection to the DAC is short enough you can use a twisted pair instead of coax, but (I think) you should only ground the servo connection at the clock-circuit end so you don't create a ground loop.
I have a Tent X02 with XO Supply, but in a CD67SE so I have not tried this.
Glenn
Could someone explain how they've hooked up the regs that go next to the opamps.
From pictures I've seen, my guess is the power is taken from C803 to go into a bent reg input pin. R611-14 have been removed. The reg output is connected to 1) R613 & 2) R614 (opamp side).
The reg ground pin is bent and runs back to the now empty spots where Q801 & Q802 used to live.
Is that correct? Do you remove any more parts apart from C805/6?
I notice one picture only has 2 cap between the opamps. Is there a reason for this?
From pictures I've seen, my guess is the power is taken from C803 to go into a bent reg input pin. R611-14 have been removed. The reg output is connected to 1) R613 & 2) R614 (opamp side).
The reg ground pin is bent and runs back to the now empty spots where Q801 & Q802 used to live.
Is that correct? Do you remove any more parts apart from C805/6?
I notice one picture only has 2 cap between the opamps. Is there a reason for this?
avr300 said:
That's not an option
The problem is I don't want to spend time & money where I've no more for CDs!
And WAF is a key to my budget... also the rest of my system needs upgrade... wich is a problem with WAF...
Glenn, Tent's stuff is far more expensive than an Audiocom SC2, I think I'll look for these as it is cheap for a fully mounted clock. I was happy with the idea of a flea and almost done the supply, but I have to be with reality not dream
Does the SC2 deserves a dedicated PSU? Wich voltage?
Here is the cheapest one :
http://www.selectronic.fr/article.asp?article_ref_entier=70.3013-3
http://www.selectronic.fr/upload/produit/fichetechnique/30133.pdf
Maybe go for it.
http://www.selectronic.fr/article.asp?article_ref_entier=70.3013-3
http://www.selectronic.fr/upload/produit/fichetechnique/30133.pdf
Maybe go for it.
YoungSC said:
You don't need bypass caps there. In fact they can do more harm than good. If you really want to use some, I think 1uF/63v polyester is a good compromise between capacity, size and price.
But I think separate psus, regs and using Black Gates next to the chips you are supplying are the key factors in making it sound excellent.
To break it down even further: the psus and regs are a definate must-do. The Black Gates, good as they are, will be a question of taste. I am getting the feeling they will work better in some systems than others, and this will depend on the character and quality of the rest of your hi-fi chain.
Simon (UK)
I've recently acquired a nice CD67SE ... naturally I found this thread ... and now I want to modify it aswell ...
I've already started on the powerchord. But that does nothing for the sound.
I find the bass to be too loud, with what mods (aprt from the clock) can I achieve better bass management en more detailed mid/high ?
And in what order ?
Would bypassing the HDAM (without better opamps) be a good idea ?
I've read that bypassing the HDAM drops a couple of veils when done, does this include the bass ?
(It might be somehwere in this thread, but freaking h*ll its 555 pages long )
I've already started on the powerchord. But that does nothing for the sound.
I find the bass to be too loud, with what mods (aprt from the clock) can I achieve better bass management en more detailed mid/high ?
And in what order ?
Would bypassing the HDAM (without better opamps) be a good idea ?
I've read that bypassing the HDAM drops a couple of veils when done, does this include the bass ?
(It might be somehwere in this thread, but freaking h*ll its 555 pages long
)
TDLofCC said:
Hi,
If the power cord does nothing for the sound a) you didn't upgrade it enough, or b) there is something elsewhere muddying the picture. But that's ok, most mods are more obvious than changing the power lead so you should be able to discern at least some of them.
First of all bypassing the HDAM does indeed drop veils, and it does reduce the apparent bass. It should tighten up.
Even more importantly you must perform two simple mechanical mods 1 - line the lid with bitumen and 2 - remove the stock feet and replace with hard cones. I like oak cones, others will work too. Use three. Don't use soft feet, these will exacerbate the bass problem.
Next you will want to change the op-amps to LM4562, 2 x OPA627, or OPA2134/OPA2132. Or one of the excellent combinations tried by others here. You will want to change the + and - 12v regulators to low noise types.
You will need to reclock the DAC using a good clock, such as the Audiocom Superclock. I haven't heard them but others can recommend many other off-the-shelf upgrades or kits. The clock needs to have it's own good quality regulated power supply. It should ideally be fed from a low noise voltage regulater. These cannot be bought from normal shops. Do a search, there are a few to choose from, such as Audiocom's Super Regulator, Tent Labs' shunt reg, or our own Brent's S Power.
Unless you reclock it, I don't think it will ever sound realistic to be honest. And it won't work to it's fullest potential unless you spend a bit of cash here.
I think those are the main mods that concern the bass of the player, but of course separating the 5v feeds of the many chips so that each is fed by it's own regulator, will reap large rewards. If each of these is in turn fed by a power supply and large transformer the sound will become more solid and the bass will be superb. It will be good if it's good on the CD, really showing amazing variety from disc to disc.
Hope this helps.
Simon
SimontY said:
Cheers, thats one hell of a reply. Helps me alot.
And I wanted to change the 12v with 317/337 thingies I found on raylectronics.nl
And ofcourse the opamps. But since they all require me to buy/order stuff I'd have to wait ... and my fingers are itching
I'm going to do the bypass tonight, I'll post my findings afterwards.
(included is my CD player
)Attachments
Ray, any chance for some really close up pictures of the discrete output conf. onboard the "former" HDAM section of the mainboard. Now it has to be tried.
I know you have done it, and to be honest, I don't wan't to break my head figuring out the component placement.
You may call it laziness - I rather call it pratical
TIA.
I know you have done it, and to be honest, I don't wan't to break my head figuring out the component placement.
You may call it laziness - I rather call it pratical
TIA.
TDL - for a cheap'n' easy improvement across the board, try this:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html
</shameless plug>
It cleans-up the supply to the existing clock, and will help whatever you do in future. If you try it and like it, the next thing to do is replace the orange mylar caps in the output stage with the same values in polystyrene or polypropylene caps. After that, give the DAC the three separate 5v regs it needs.
All this can be done for pennies, and helps right across the board, as well as tighten-up the flabby CD63 bass. Easy, and we'll hold your hand if needed
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html
</shameless plug>
It cleans-up the supply to the existing clock, and will help whatever you do in future. If you try it and like it, the next thing to do is replace the orange mylar caps in the output stage with the same values in polystyrene or polypropylene caps. After that, give the DAC the three separate 5v regs it needs.
All this can be done for pennies, and helps right across the board, as well as tighten-up the flabby CD63 bass. Easy, and we'll hold your hand if needed
Alright ... I did the bypass ... was kinda scary ... my soldering was a little rusty ... but when I was busy it went better and better
Still a little scared I put it to the torch
Quickly close it up to test. Bass is alot better, alot less booming.
Love it already, and this is with the standard opamps. It can only get better now.
One question though, why would Marantz add this, when it apparantly makes the player ... sound worse than without ?
Next up are the 7805 and 7905, replace them with the LM317 and LM337. And the opamps, dunno which ones. I'll have to look into that. And then a clock. Perhaps I will go with the Flea. Any other "cheap' clocks that will do the trick ?
My funds are limited ... unfortunately
Still a little scared I put it to the torch
Quickly close it up to test. Bass is alot better, alot less booming.
Love it already, and this is with the standard opamps. It can only get better now.
One question though, why would Marantz add this, when it apparantly makes the player ... sound worse than without ?
Next up are the 7805 and 7905, replace them with the LM317 and LM337. And the opamps, dunno which ones. I'll have to look into that. And then a clock. Perhaps I will go with the Flea. Any other "cheap' clocks that will do the trick ?
My funds are limited ... unfortunately
avr300 said:Ray, any chance for some really close up pictures of the discrete output conf. onboard the "former" HDAM section of the mainboard. Now it has to be tried.
I know you have done it, and to be honest, I don't wan't to break my head figuring out the component placement.
You may call it laziness - I rather call it pratical
TIA.
Ah, nice! You won't be disappointed. If you send me a PM I can reply and will send you a picture-package. There's some of them on my homepage too, in the CD57-XXL section.
Regards,
Ray
TDLofCC said:
You're welcome. Of course it's only my opinions and feelings about the player. Some people will tell you that upgrading the filter components will do lots of good but I'd rank those quite far down in importance. Cheap though, which is key.
TDLofCC said:
Congratulations on your first successful mod! I'd glad you like it.
Why Marantz would do it... In my opinion it's because it sounds big n ballsy, there's lots of bass. And that helps to cover up the "jittery" vague sound. That's only my guess/opinion! I could well be wrong.
Simon
help!!!!
Got a problem with my CD63KI after doing some mods.
Unfortunately did a few mods together (stupid!!) so I don't know which one is causing the problem.
When I switch on the power the sled tries to move outwards, but as its already at the end of its travel it just sits there clicking (I think it should move towards the centre of the CD?)
It's as if I've changed polarity somewhere but I don't know how to check.
Brent was kind enough to advise me to look around the dac and decoder mods, but as far as I can tell things seem to be OK there. The caps I changed were C509, C512 and C513.
I've changed them round to see if the polarity of them made a difference but didn't.
One thing though the orange lead from the transformer came unsoldered from the board,. It seemed to have come from the C801 hole nearest the tranny. Thats where I put it. Does anyone know if this is right? (It's next to U231). The other orange lead is still at U311.
I've spent hours and hours on it now and I don't really know enough.
Can anyone please help me?
Got a problem with my CD63KI after doing some mods.
Unfortunately did a few mods together (stupid!!) so I don't know which one is causing the problem.
When I switch on the power the sled tries to move outwards, but as its already at the end of its travel it just sits there clicking (I think it should move towards the centre of the CD?)
It's as if I've changed polarity somewhere but I don't know how to check.
Brent was kind enough to advise me to look around the dac and decoder mods, but as far as I can tell things seem to be OK there. The caps I changed were C509, C512 and C513.
I've changed them round to see if the polarity of them made a difference but didn't.
One thing though the orange lead from the transformer came unsoldered from the board,. It seemed to have come from the C801 hole nearest the tranny. Thats where I put it. Does anyone know if this is right? (It's next to U231). The other orange lead is still at U311.
I've spent hours and hours on it now and I don't really know enough.
Can anyone please help me?
I've just been searching this thread for related laser topics (DOH!!) and found some questions by Brent.
I've checked and got the following readings:-
Q501 0/4.92/0
Q502 4.24/4.92/4.88
R505 4.92/5.05
R501 and R502 both 464 ohms
I am also reading +13.4v on pin2 and -13.4v on pin 9 of Q105 and Q106.
Does this mean that Q501 has blown and if so would that give me the symptoms I described?
I've checked and got the following readings:-
Q501 0/4.92/0
Q502 4.24/4.92/4.88
R505 4.92/5.05
R501 and R502 both 464 ohms
I am also reading +13.4v on pin2 and -13.4v on pin 9 of Q105 and Q106.
Does this mean that Q501 has blown and if so would that give me the symptoms I described?