Hi Jim, Take the mecanic out of the box and wash it carefully with soap ... everywhere in the optical area.. (just done twice on a CD43 and a CD67) wait 1 day of drying and ... good luck
Can't do any harm to try this but don't forget to wash the soap off with clean water.
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Took the tray out to do the above although I had noted how smooth it ran....whilst looking to fathom how to get all the electronics off the sled I noticed the wires to one of the motors was badly soldered. I guess whomever swapped out the laser to the later VAM did a bad job here.
All working again and I lined the chassis with bitumen while it was apart .
Also changed the cap on the small PCB on the sled as I had a Pana FC handy.
What are opinions on this player nowadays....does it still cut it.?
I have a CA Dacmagic (Wolfson wm8740 dual dacs) that I think sounds quite nice. I have fed the CD67 into this for now.
Should I concentrate on the DM as DAc and just modify the correct parts of the CD67 and leave alone the output stage etc....or could the CD67 DAC and output be better than tur Dacmagic?
All working again and I lined the chassis with bitumen while it was apart .
Also changed the cap on the small PCB on the sled as I had a Pana FC handy.
What are opinions on this player nowadays....does it still cut it.?
I have a CA Dacmagic (Wolfson wm8740 dual dacs) that I think sounds quite nice. I have fed the CD67 into this for now.
Should I concentrate on the DM as DAc and just modify the correct parts of the CD67 and leave alone the output stage etc....or could the CD67 DAC and output be better than tur Dacmagic?
You can do both - and compare the results. It all depends on the time and will that you have got for this hobby.
There is a video on youtube showing internals of modified DM 100. After having watched it - what the guy says there is that you have to use a better power supply and replace opamps in its output stage to get good sound out of it.
So if you run on a stock DM then there are chances that a modified CD-67 with a tuned output stage may sound better.
I admit that I have practically no technical knowledge about the quality and specialties of the dac chips used in these devices so I cannot comment if the output of DM dac chip is audibly better than the CD-67 one or not.
Hi gang, just checking in as I haven't posted in a while.
I buy a lot more music on vinyl these days and discover new music on Spotify Premium via Chromecast Audio, but my CD63KI is still working and sounding wonderful.
I haven't felt the need to crack it open for YEARS now, but recently the display has been getting gradually dimmer so I suspect a loose connection somewhere. I may dive in again soon, but I've lost a lot of the knowledge and courage required to muck around in there.
For those who don't remember me, my CD63KI has a DOS CPF with the best quality components I could find (Black Gate FKs, boutique high-tolerance resistors, matched transistors, etc.). It's powered by two Super Regulators with a dedicated big VA Nuvotem toroidal transformer. I'm running dual Flea XO clocks for DAC and servo. All caps are either Black Gate FK, N or 1% silver mica, except the PSU smoothers, which are 22,000uF Mundorfs. All chips have their own dedicated PSU, and each input has its own reg direct at the pin (LM317 with the LED hack to reduce noise). DC blocking is with Mundorf Silver/Oil. Power is via a Furutech IEC socket. My only regrets are a few broken traces from repeated soldering as I moved through the ranks of LM4562 to DOS, a lack of 'exotic' regs, and general spaghetti inside due to it having something like 9 PSUs!
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgjzIjcL-FMAqItVZ_2eGrB5oTuNxw
I buy a lot more music on vinyl these days and discover new music on Spotify Premium via Chromecast Audio, but my CD63KI is still working and sounding wonderful.
I haven't felt the need to crack it open for YEARS now, but recently the display has been getting gradually dimmer so I suspect a loose connection somewhere. I may dive in again soon, but I've lost a lot of the knowledge and courage required to muck around in there.
For those who don't remember me, my CD63KI has a DOS CPF with the best quality components I could find (Black Gate FKs, boutique high-tolerance resistors, matched transistors, etc.). It's powered by two Super Regulators with a dedicated big VA Nuvotem toroidal transformer. I'm running dual Flea XO clocks for DAC and servo. All caps are either Black Gate FK, N or 1% silver mica, except the PSU smoothers, which are 22,000uF Mundorfs. All chips have their own dedicated PSU, and each input has its own reg direct at the pin (LM317 with the LED hack to reduce noise). DC blocking is with Mundorf Silver/Oil. Power is via a Furutech IEC socket. My only regrets are a few broken traces from repeated soldering as I moved through the ranks of LM4562 to DOS, a lack of 'exotic' regs, and general spaghetti inside due to it having something like 9 PSUs!
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgjzIjcL-FMAqItVZ_2eGrB5oTuNxw
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Hello Ben,
the display may be just reaching the time of its own "retirement".
If it is getting gradually dimmer then it is unlikely to be a matter of loose connection. But look at the bright side - you can possibly purchase cheaply a CD-63 with a broken laser and take the front panel board from there. Then you just disconnect and reconnect one ribbon cable and done you are
Regarding music on vinyl (I am "Back2Black" already for five years now) - if the set on the linked photo is yours and the amplifier is unmodified then I can assure you that you have actually more hidden potential for improvement there than when moving from stock CD-63 to your modified player
But that discussion is for another thread ...
the display may be just reaching the time of its own "retirement".
If it is getting gradually dimmer then it is unlikely to be a matter of loose connection. But look at the bright side - you can possibly purchase cheaply a CD-63 with a broken laser and take the front panel board from there. Then you just disconnect and reconnect one ribbon cable and done you are
Regarding music on vinyl (I am "Back2Black" already for five years now) - if the set on the linked photo is yours and the amplifier is unmodified then I can assure you that you have actually more hidden potential for improvement there than when moving from stock CD-63 to your modified player
But that discussion is for another thread ...
Thanks for the input.
I am reading my way through the many pages of this thread. I have ordered some 22k uf caps and op amps. I'm not sure how far to go with it due to having the dacmagic also and have also a pioneer sacd to play with.
It is a shame not of the pictures are no longer hosted as they would be very helpful, and also the guide Brent did is no longer there....I think he started doing this as a commercial venture.
Ben.....your comments about spotify and chromecast.....I too use these methods .....do you feed the CCA into a DAC?
I do it this way...convenient but I am interested in your thought on SQ, especially compared to your Marantz.?
I am reading my way through the many pages of this thread. I have ordered some 22k uf caps and op amps. I'm not sure how far to go with it due to having the dacmagic also and have also a pioneer sacd to play with.
It is a shame not of the pictures are no longer hosted as they would be very helpful, and also the guide Brent did is no longer there....I think he started doing this as a commercial venture.
Ben.....your comments about spotify and chromecast.....I too use these methods .....do you feed the CCA into a DAC?
I do it this way...convenient but I am interested in your thought on SQ, especially compared to your Marantz.?
If the concept of using external dac and having the players in the role of the transport is ok with you then it would be logical to start with modifying the external dac.
If however the external dac "keeps blocking the walkways" in the audio rack then it would perhaps be better to modify the player(s) and get rid of it.
The possible analogue output stage mods may be similar for both kinds of devices.
Yep, my PM66KI is modified pretty extensively too, based largely on Brent's mod list from back in the day. It has two transformers, IEC, schottky diodes, all Black Gate and silver mica caps, and (most importantly) the tape loop / source direct circuit is fully bypassed with Kimber wire. Oh and the phono stage op-amp is upgraded to LM4462HA. I'm still rocking the original volume pot and binding posts for now, but I'll upgrade those one day.
I use the CC Audio's own DAC. I was very disappointed when I first heard it, until A: I plumped for Spotify Premium for the higher bit rate, and B: enabled High Dynamic Range in the settings. I think it sounds pretty good now, although it does seem susceptible to picking up a bit of noise sometimes. It's difficult to compare the sound quality directly because the volume levels are different. If I own the CD, it's going on the Marantz for sure, but these days I'm increasingly likely to prefer searching out something new to eventually buy on vinyl!
I use the CC Audio's own DAC. I was very disappointed when I first heard it, until A: I plumped for Spotify Premium for the higher bit rate, and B: enabled High Dynamic Range in the settings. I think it sounds pretty good now, although it does seem susceptible to picking up a bit of noise sometimes. It's difficult to compare the sound quality directly because the volume levels are different. If I own the CD, it's going on the Marantz for sure, but these days I'm increasingly likely to prefer searching out something new to eventually buy on vinyl!
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Hopefully you have reduced C453 and C459 - but yet, this is a discussion for another thread
And just to add to the mix I just bagged a Cd5000 for 25quid....with the tda1549.
But today I have added 2x 22000 to the main smoothing caps and also 22000 to C814.
Also opamps changed for LM4562NA. My first dip8 swap.....solder wick works wonders!
First impressions...well it still works! Bass seems better. But it is more sibilant. Maybe just pushing the limits of other elements so perhaps HDAM bypass is required , though I do read this can emphasise the highs and lose some lows.
Other thing is the 12v regs are really warm. But I never checked them before to be honest. Have hashed on some sinks for now but they're a bit wonky
Edit...all regs are pretty hot.
But today I have added 2x 22000 to the main smoothing caps and also 22000 to C814.
Also opamps changed for LM4562NA. My first dip8 swap.....solder wick works wonders!
First impressions...well it still works! Bass seems better. But it is more sibilant. Maybe just pushing the limits of other elements so perhaps HDAM bypass is required , though I do read this can emphasise the highs and lose some lows.
Other thing is the 12v regs are really warm. But I never checked them before to be honest. Have hashed on some sinks for now but they're a bit wonky
Edit...all regs are pretty hot.
When putting in faster opamps you should "fix" their power lines first - inductors, ferrite beads, bypass capacitor over power pins.
You should also measure the offset voltage at HDAM output to determine if you can bypass the output caps.
The regs do get pretty warm - if my memory serves me correct then I could keep my finfertip on them for a couple of seconds.
Whether to bypass or not (in the beginning) the HDAM - experiment and listen to the results.
I did another round of mods today basically from Rays list of mods for the 67mk2.
Only did the simple cap swap and removal around hdam, dac and also muting transistors and link wires etc removed.
So now I have no music and 2.3 - 2.4 v DC at the outputs.
Measures this same voltage at pin 7 OP amp output. I have ran a wire from the old jumper pad downstream of the hdam straight to new RCA plugs. I picked up a ground from the hdam casing.
Any ideas what I may have cocked up?
Only did the simple cap swap and removal around hdam, dac and also muting transistors and link wires etc removed.
So now I have no music and 2.3 - 2.4 v DC at the outputs.
Measures this same voltage at pin 7 OP amp output. I have ran a wire from the old jumper pad downstream of the hdam straight to new RCA plugs. I picked up a ground from the hdam casing.
Any ideas what I may have cocked up?
I'm not sure those reservoir caps sitting on top of and next to live mains is a good idea tbh.
The resistance and inductance of the cable also seriously impairs the overall ESR and makes the cap much less effective at filtering HF than it would otherwise be.
If a mod has gone wrong then retrace what you did and if necessary reinstate it back to original state and see if the problem remains or not.
The resistance and inductance of the cable also seriously impairs the overall ESR and makes the cap much less effective at filtering HF than it would otherwise be.
If a mod has gone wrong then retrace what you did and if necessary reinstate it back to original state and see if the problem remains or not.
Looks like you've bypassed a few too many bits - see the photos in posts 11 and 39 and you can see better how it should be done. You need R661/662 (100K to ground) and at least some series resistance from pin 7 to RCA, Ray recommends 27R IIRC. I've always left C659/660 (100p) in circuit as well, though I think I upgraded it to polystyrene. Restore those bits and see what happens - you'll need to pull QN05-7, C655-8, basically what's on Ray's mod list.
The U221 jumper can also be taken out and is a much better place to pick up ground, shorter loop area = less chance of interference
If you haven't already got a service manual from Ray's Audio Page, download one and study the circuit and board layout, bypassing bits not on Ray's list can cause grief! Good luck!
.The U221 jumper can also be taken out and is a much better place to pick up ground, shorter loop area = less chance of interference
If you haven't already got a service manual from Ray's Audio Page, download one and study the circuit and board layout, bypassing bits not on Ray's list can cause grief! Good luck!
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