Do you know if original CD/laser mechs can still be sourced for these?
See a load on ebay from Germany but seem too cheap.
Tom
See a load on ebay from Germany but seem too cheap.
Tom
No, I don't think so. Some of them are advertised as CDM12.1, but that's just for reference. They are all the same cheap VAM1202 clones. You can even buy some 'original' Philips units. They have a nice Philips sticker, but it's all the same units.
No, I haven't noticed any difference. But I did get a dud or two... Those were the cheapo ones from China-bay. But the price is so low, I just order one extra 🙂
Maybe someone here can help me. I'm looking for a simple, affordable +5V regulator for a TDA1541 DAC in a CD player but I just can't figure it out.
Maybe a shunt reg from Ebay? Any suggestions?
Only other options I can think of are LM7805 or LM317 based reg but I need something better that's still cheap and not too time consuming to put together.
Maybe a shunt reg from Ebay? Any suggestions?
Only other options I can think of are LM7805 or LM317 based reg but I need something better that's still cheap and not too time consuming to put together.
That sounds good. Is there a schematic of this? Do I only put a BC547 before the LM317 or do I need to add a resistor and decoupling cap to the BC547 as well?
edit: so 10k resistor and 3.3uF cap as well? Can I use something cheaper and smaller than a huge film cap?
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The configuration of the BC547 is a common capacitor amplification circuit. Just google for a schematic....
If you want to apply such a circuit before the LM317, mind the restricted current capabilities (and power handling) of the BC547.. You might want to use an other transistor or darlington.
BC547 is fine for the TDA but not for the SAA7220 filter. Is 2N2222 a good enough substitute? I want to use a tracking preregulator with 2 LM317s for the SAA though. Should I put the gyrator before the prereg or after?
Hi,
I used a flea for +5V regulator in my TDA1541 player, if you buy the parts from ray it's about 25euro iirc.
It was a big improvement but having good +/- 15v regs was also a big improvement.
Regards
Pete
Regards
Pete
Sorry, I forgot. If you use a flea for the 5v you need to add/change some bits to up the current output. I can't remember where I got the info but I guess it was the flea forum on the pink fish site.
Yes, good suggestion! I can recommend it as well. Almost forgot about them, I have four of them in my ezDAC and they made a world of difference compared to the original LM317/337's that were in there.
Can I find one somewhere for <€50 including all the parts and shipping to Belgium? If not, a Tentlabs shunt regulator may be the way to go.
I also really want to try the Flea clock upgrade but the cost of a Tentlabs XO module is kinda holding me back.
I don't think so, but if you get a bare PCB you can build it yourself and that will be cheaper. It will take some time sourcing all the parts though.
As for the Flea, you could put a 5x7mm SMD oscillator on it, from Crystek for example. They also have good low-jitter specs and are less expensive. It can be a bit problematic finding the odd CD frequency, but some manufacturers issue free samples if you ask them nicely 🙂
Regards,
Ray
As for the Flea, you could put a 5x7mm SMD oscillator on it, from Crystek for example. They also have good low-jitter specs and are less expensive. It can be a bit problematic finding the odd CD frequency, but some manufacturers issue free samples if you ask them nicely 🙂
Regards,
Ray
The SAA7220 draws about 200mA. Don't bother with the emitter-follower for such a reg - just use CRC before the tracking prereg. Something like 1000 / 4.7ohm, 2W resistor / 1000uF will do the same job with only 1v drop-out. make it 2200uF if you like. Simple, brute-force and effective filtering 🙂
bigger chassis
As things seem to have gone quiet thought I would post a partially complete drawing of a larger chassis I have been working on for the CD63.
The largest piece being 3mm steel which I have yet to get copper plated and the lid 1.2mm stainless steel.
I would rather have a one box player than a separate box for transformers.
not sure I have uploaded the picture correctly till I post.
As things seem to have gone quiet thought I would post a partially complete drawing of a larger chassis I have been working on for the CD63.
The largest piece being 3mm steel which I have yet to get copper plated and the lid 1.2mm stainless steel.
I would rather have a one box player than a separate box for transformers.
not sure I have uploaded the picture correctly till I post.
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