Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

I've normally found that the disc spinning really quickly is down to the clock signal not being picked up. Not sure the direction of spinning though. In one case it was due to the clock not starting up quickly enough for the player to synch to it and a smaller cap on the clock circuit (it was an audiocom clock) fixed the issue. In other cases it's been due to a faulty clock or a bad connection in the clock signal path.

If you have an aftermarket clock in your new player I'd look at that first.

Regards

Pete
Thanks Pete,
I suspected the same, but I'm not getting any spinning at all if I just turn it on normally and that's what I'd expect if the clock signal was bad.
I only get a quickly spinning anticlockwise disc in service mode P01 and P02
 
Hi,

Slightly off topic but as we're discussing DOS...

Anyone successfully tried/managed to hook one up to a TDA1541 dac? If so are there any simple instructions on how to do it?

Regards

Pete

Hi Pete,

The DOS won't work with the TDA1541. The TDA has a single current output and the DOS is designed to worh with a DAC that has two voltage outputs.

Google hint: you need a discrete I/V converter for the 1541 😉
 
Thanks to Ray and Ben I have hooked up my DOS-CFP board on my CD63, but I am disappointed with the sound: it sounds tinny and non-musical. I just hooked up the left side and left the old analogue on the right side for comparison. The output measured on my scope is about .8V peak to peak (the old output section is about 2V). I took the DOS power from C803/804 (fed by 30VA, 2 X 15V torroid). The voltage measured as it enters the board is -24V/+24V and is 24V between the + and - rails. There is about 4.3V across R5 giving 1.8mA for T3/4. I don't know how to measure the current for T6.

1) Should the output be so low?
2) I have only done the clock and transformers so far - does it just need more modding to bring out the benefits of the DOS CFP?
3) Is there a way to feed a sine wave into the analogue sections for direct comparison of the outputs (record a CD with different tones)?

Henry
 

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Try shorting them out (as long as your pre-amp has DC blocking on its input, otherwise replace.) You need a value 600+ times larger to avoid low frequency roll-off.
2.2uF is probably the minimum, better still 3.3uF
I agree. The input impedance is 25Kohms - so 3.3uF would be good. There is no DC blocking on the amp.
 

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Thanks Ray, I put in 100uF similics and the DOS-CFP is now working nicely. I am thinking of replacing them with Mcap EVO Aluminium Oil Capacitors 3.3uf. I haven't have time to compare to the old analogue but will this afternoon.

Next I will be upgrading the caps in the PSU. I also want to put regs in but there is a confusing array of options. I also don't want to spend a fortune. I have seen these on ebay:

TI TPS7A4700 15V 1A 4.17uVrms Ultra Low Noise LDO Voltage Regulator | eBay
Do you have a suggestion of how to do a minimal regs upgrade that would help realise the potential of my torroid/clock/DOS upgrades?
 
Those eBay regs aren't even that cheap considering they're an unknown quantity. If you want low cost 3-pin replacements then I think Paul Hynes series regs are well worth considering.

I'm very happy with my Jung/Didden super regs, which are DIY and cost-effective, but they take up a lot more space than the 3-pin jobbies.

Fidelity Audio S-Powers and Tentlabs Shunts are more expensive, but they are tried and tested on the DOS by people on here. There may be others.
 
Thanks Ray, I put in 100uF similics and the DOS-CFP is now working nicely. I am thinking of replacing them with Mcap EVO Aluminium Oil Capacitors 3.3uf. I haven't have time to compare to the old analogue but will this afternoon.

Great that it's working now. I have the EVO caps in my SA8400 SACD player and I like them very much. There are better sounding caps, but they cost a lot more. I think they are a very good value! If your budget permits, get the Silver/Gold-Oil! They are more expensive, but they'll last a lifetime and you'll enjoy listening to them every day. I mostly order them at Partsconnexion when they have a discount going, this can save you up to 25%.
 
Those eBay regs aren't even that cheap considering they're an unknown quantity. If you want low cost 3-pin replacements then I think Paul Hynes series regs are well worth considering.

I'm very happy with my Jung/Didden super regs, which are DIY and cost-effective, but they take up a lot more space than the 3-pin jobbies.

Fidelity Audio S-Powers and Tentlabs Shunts are more expensive, but they are tried and tested on the DOS by people on here. There may be others.

Hi Ben, the ebay guy only sells these regs and has already sold >3000 with 100% approval (if you believe the stats). So I am thinking of giving them a try at £16 each. There are other diy audio threads looking at TPS7A4700: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...oise-symmetrical-psu-tps7a4701-tps7a3301.html
Also: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...jects-available-here-bal-bal-se-se-lpuhp.html

The ADM7151 actually looks good but I can't find a PCB for it. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a comparison of either chip to an established super reg in audio circuits😕.

Henry
 
I have been scrolling through past posts to try and get a good idea of which regs are best (thanks for the servo recommendation). If you were to rank which would most benefit the SQ of these what would it be?


Servo (2) (+5v) (R122 & R123)
DAC (3) (+5V) (UD200, RD01 & RD04)
Decoder (2) (+5V) (R508 & R510)
DOS-CFP (2) (+12V/-12V) (Replace LM78/9 on board)

Are there any chips that would benefit from non super
regs (eg using Ray’s LM317)?

What I’ve already done to my CD63:
Clock (Flea) is already on its own torroid as recommended on Ray’s site.
The rest of the power is fed by 30VA 2X15V, 50VA 2X12V and 7VA 2X12 as recommended by Higlander.
It is easy enough to do Ray’s PSU regs (Q801/2 -> LM317/337 and Q811 -> MC805ACT) so I will do those soon.

Henry