I found this post that has Ray and Anton's opinions (19432) .
T1,2,6: 2SK170BL, T3,4: 2SA970, T5,7: 2SC2240.
And Ray suggests a current sink configuration: "replace the 100R resistor (R13) by a LED and insert a 10k resistor from the LED's anode to the +12V. R14 sets the current, it should be around 100R for 10mA to flow through the output buffer."
Have I got this right?
Ben, I am matching using my multimeter which measures hFE or is that just rubbish? I couldn't see matched ones on ebay. Henry
T1,2,6: 2SK170BL, T3,4: 2SA970, T5,7: 2SC2240.
And Ray suggests a current sink configuration: "replace the 100R resistor (R13) by a LED and insert a 10k resistor from the LED's anode to the +12V. R14 sets the current, it should be around 100R for 10mA to flow through the output buffer."
Have I got this right?
Ben, I am matching using my multimeter which measures hFE or is that just rubbish? I couldn't see matched ones on ebay. Henry
Little LM317 Boards ???
Ray or others,
Who's making the little LM317 boards now?
I think the guy from Rays web pages is no longer around.
Is there another source for these little boards?
Ray or others,
Who's making the little LM317 boards now?
I think the guy from Rays web pages is no longer around.
Is there another source for these little boards?
henryyy, I PM'd you an eBay link to matched 2SK170BLs. I don't know how to match them myself, sorry.
Regarding Brent's long lost mods list, The Wayback Machine is your friend.
Regarding Brent's long lost mods list, The Wayback Machine is your friend.
I can see it now, but it's not available in UK. Funny that, the seller in in Israel.
Wow, I hadn't seen this. I will have to spend some time studying
Thanks!!!! Henry
Yes 🙂
You could add another 220n capacitor, just like C5.
I'll update my LM317 page, seems like Mr. Eddy Wang is no longer available, thanks guys.
You could add another 220n capacitor, just like C5.
I'll update my LM317 page, seems like Mr. Eddy Wang is no longer available, thanks guys.
No... not like that! Put the cap in parallel to the LED! You have to pay attention! ;-)
Hooking up both the DOS and the original circuit is not recommended. I don't think the DAC's outputs are able to drive two output circuits.
What you can do, is take as much preparation as possible and put the DOS in the player but without connecting the inputs yet. Then take a good listen with two or three tracks of your favorite music, swap the wiring to connect the DOS and listen again. I'm sure you'll hear the difference 🙂
Hooking up both the DOS and the original circuit is not recommended. I don't think the DAC's outputs are able to drive two output circuits.
What you can do, is take as much preparation as possible and put the DOS in the player but without connecting the inputs yet. Then take a good listen with two or three tracks of your favorite music, swap the wiring to connect the DOS and listen again. I'm sure you'll hear the difference 🙂
I think I need a coffee before attempting mods! Here is the corrected schematic. Henry
Attachments
Hi,
Slightly off topic but as we're discussing DOS...
Anyone successfully tried/managed to hook one up to a TDA1541 dac? If so are there any simple instructions on how to do it?
Regards
Pete
Slightly off topic but as we're discussing DOS...
Anyone successfully tried/managed to hook one up to a TDA1541 dac? If so are there any simple instructions on how to do it?
Regards
Pete
Wondering if you guys could help out with a little diagnostics?
I picked up a second player, a CD63 KI with a nice clock advertised as faulty. It's not playing and just displaying 'disc' without spinning the disc up, so I popped it into service mode and on p01, the disc spins clockwise for a second, then reverses and spins anticlockwise real fast. So the common wisdom as I understand is that there's a laser issue?
So I swapped the entire CD mech, drawer, laser etc over with my working CD63 and in my working CD63, I now get the exact same symptoms and p01 spins the disc quickly anticlockwise, so there's an issue with this mech/laser, BUT, with my working CD mech in this new KI player, I still get the exact same symptoms and the exact same anticlockwise spinning on p01. Does that mean something else is also wrong here? Possibly a servo chip maybe?
What should I be looking for and testing?
thanks guys,
James
I picked up a second player, a CD63 KI with a nice clock advertised as faulty. It's not playing and just displaying 'disc' without spinning the disc up, so I popped it into service mode and on p01, the disc spins clockwise for a second, then reverses and spins anticlockwise real fast. So the common wisdom as I understand is that there's a laser issue?
So I swapped the entire CD mech, drawer, laser etc over with my working CD63 and in my working CD63, I now get the exact same symptoms and p01 spins the disc quickly anticlockwise, so there's an issue with this mech/laser, BUT, with my working CD mech in this new KI player, I still get the exact same symptoms and the exact same anticlockwise spinning on p01. Does that mean something else is also wrong here? Possibly a servo chip maybe?
What should I be looking for and testing?
thanks guys,
James
See my post in #19982, it might help.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ntz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1999.html#post3774978
Just checking - you say you swapped the mech - did the ribbon go with it?
Is the clock the only mod?
Unfortunately, in my experience this behaviour can be caused by a range of problems.
I've had it numerous times with cracked traces on pads.
I would start by getting the service manual and checking voltages at the various test points and on the power pins to each of the chips. Be careful not to short anything.
It's also worth very gently pressing the PCB with your finger in a few places while the disc is spinning to see if the behaviour changes. This can indicate a broken trace somewhere.
Is the clock the only mod?
Unfortunately, in my experience this behaviour can be caused by a range of problems.
I've had it numerous times with cracked traces on pads.
I would start by getting the service manual and checking voltages at the various test points and on the power pins to each of the chips. Be careful not to short anything.
It's also worth very gently pressing the PCB with your finger in a few places while the disc is spinning to see if the behaviour changes. This can indicate a broken trace somewhere.
I've normally found that the disc spinning really quickly is down to the clock signal not being picked up. Not sure the direction of spinning though. In one case it was due to the clock not starting up quickly enough for the player to synch to it and a smaller cap on the clock circuit (it was an audiocom clock) fixed the issue. In other cases it's been due to a faulty clock or a bad connection in the clock signal path.
If you have an aftermarket clock in your new player I'd look at that first.
Regards
Pete
If you have an aftermarket clock in your new player I'd look at that first.
Regards
Pete
Ribbon stayed, but I'll check that
Yeah, just a clock. Otherwise totally stock KI
I suck.... just shorted pins 2 and 3 on Q105 and now I have a buzzing laser jumping up and down 🙄😱
So looks like I need to change some op-amps regardless of what was wrong before...
For the record, the Q106 voltages were:
1 0.03
2 11.8
3 0.02
4 -12.4
5 2.55
6 2.55
7 2.55
8 2.55
9 to 16 -12.4