Making panel holes for XLR

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#63
2 subjects my opinion and summary:

I also see absolutely no issues with banana TRS jacks at all, good contacts, cheaper and less panel estate occupying than XLR, simple to drill holes... Does the job for balanced connector or single ended stereo, widely available even not popular in "hi end".
Downsides of TRS are few; it does not connect pin 1 or Sleeve directly to chassis, so that needs to be soldered and it doesn't allow more pins (4 contact TSR is pain to solder, expensive and rare) neither different connections (data, RCA, Speakon, powercon....)
My RME soundcard, 8 analog in and 8 analog out is packed with them, no problem.

Back mounted XLR eases drilling job dramatically and only limit is max 3mm back panel thickness. Not a big deal really, only when mounting at speakers box front mounting is mandatory, but material is then softer to file than metal.
Big benefit of XLR hole size is that allows for all types of connections in same hole size.

As so far I did not see suggestion for easy and massive DIY XLR hole drilling, especially for front mounting, that's fine. I might start use more banana jacks in experimental, and probably also permanent, designs. That's good reminder @markbakk
 
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#64
Agreed. XLRs are fiddly to fit. I use Q-Max chassis punches to make the large hole, but 3mm aluminium is their limit. After that, a selection of good quality files to do the twiddly bits. I find accurate metalbashing to be quite soothing, so I have the appropriate tools. Step drills are useful too. Probably the most useful tool when cutting awkward holes is a light on a gooseneck that can shine from underneath and make your scribed lines easily visible. Sounds obvious, but being able to easily see what you're doing makes all the difference in the world. That, and having a selection of good files easily to hand.

Fitting XLRs to 6mm metal really requires machine tools - boring head on a mill. Or pay someone else to do the job. Anything can be done by hand, but it will take time and require skill and patience.

If you want to feel better about XLRs, fit a 9-pin D-connector for serial data. Yesterday, I used a 2mm cutter on the mill to cut the two long slots and I'll do the short angled bits by hand. It will come out neatly but an XLR is easy by comparison because it has nice big flanges to cover the hole.
 
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#66
Get the panel laser-cut or water jet-cut with whatever openings you need, and then just make one big rectangular opening and screw it on with 4 screws. Or more than 4 screws, if EMI is a major issue and you need a better shield bond.

Alternately, if you don't mind the extra cost and extra labour, and your system is fully DIY, you could go with bayonet-style twin-ax connectors. From a technical perspective they are even better than XLR, but they're practically never used for audio (because they're overkill) 🙂. But, the holes for those connectors are usually round, so that kind of answers your original question...
 
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#67
#68
Drbulj said:
from front of the panel; then they need round hole plus 4 precise slots around that hole.
Click to expand...
Since with a 6mm panel you are forced to use front mounting, I'm not sure about the above statement (bold is mine) as I'm sure that no slot is needed.

If you can do me a favor 😍, please measure with a caliper the maximum diameter of the rear of both the male and female Neutrik sockets and let me know which one it is because I don't remember exactly from memory and I couldn't find :smash: the dozens of DL sockets that I've placed somewhere (and I don't even want to open my amp to do it). Thanks!
 
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#69
Hi,

This is universal Neutrik, 21.5 mm barrel with 4 slots, 3 small ones for centering and one large for release lever
1750925984375.png


If one makes just one 23.6 mm hole (24mm is also ok) XLR can be mounted from back or from front regardless, Pins fall in hole diameter then and have no function, socket is centered by mounting screws only. See black panel below, one socket from front and one from back.
If we make tighter 21.6 mm hole (22 is ok) than slots are needed and XLR is centered. , See gray panel below, on this one someone opened large second vertical slot too to make possible upside down installation as well.
1750926433951.jpeg


I started this short thread to see other experience in making slotted holes, But I see it is not easy for anyone (except ordering whole pre-drilled panel, or whole chassis) and it is not such big deal, but it is very nice to have tight slotted holes... I was wandering if anyone knows where to get dedicated punch or broaching tool for these slots.
But since there is no quick answer, and issue is not fundamental, I would cease discussion about it....

Thanks to all for contribution,

Cheers,
Drazen
 
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#70
It is indeed a compelling question, and depending on the machinery that you have to work with, can be simpler, but it is at the expense of such machinery or the availability of it by someone else. Like you, I often find myself using a file or Dremel carbide bit. A lot of work.
 
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#72
Neutrik.jpg

Well it would be work but if you really want to DIY it with the slots you could make a jig out of one unit:

Knock out the black plastic internals , file off the ribs , drill holes from the back of the flange to indicate the width and depth of the removed rib and cut/mill the case to take a saw or rasp the width of the needed slot. For the wide cutouts you can do the end corners and then cut off the remaining tab at its base with a fine saw .

Then treasure your creation like a Fabergé egg (so it doesn't bend and break because the remaining flange is all that holds it all together ) and use it wherever needed by inserting it into the hole you usually drill, putting the screws in the corners to hold it, and use the desired sized saw blade (or rasp) to cut the slots.

You could also make a sturdier version or have one made from some other material. A good jig/template takes time to make but saves you even more when used. If you can't get the accuracy you want yourself , just get somebody with the right tools to help you out.
Anyway, that's one way you could go.
 
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#74
Hearinspace said:
You could also make a sturdier version or have one made from some other material. A good jig/template takes time to make but saves you even more when used. If you can't get the accuracy you want yourself , just get somebody with the right tools to help you out.
Anyway, that's one way you could go.
Click to expand...
Hi, this is so far best idea IMO. Cast metal flange from Neutrik would not survive many works, but steel (even hardened) template would be used for lifetime drilling!

I can actually envision 2 templates, both for 2 sockets so distance is taken care of too:

1st one with just 2mm holes to mark them, can be of soft metal even hard plastic:
per socket:
1 center hole
2 mounting screw holes
3 small slots holes
2 holes in each corner of big slot

After this is drilled all holes can be opened to right size and screw ones M3 tapered

2nd harder steel template in full shape of Neutrik hole fixed with screws;
Only thing left is to finish release lever large slot with saw, file or dremel bit...
This should be not to hard and will allow precise spacing....
For back mounting or no slots, only 1st template is enough, 3 holes to be drilled and ok.

I think I will make something like this for my tool box

Thanks!

PS, now when I think of what I wrote myself, for pair of XLR's with slots; 8 holes, 3 needs second run so 11. For a pair 22 drilling, 2 times mounting template and use saw - file by hand.
Without slots still one template and min 12 drill passes for pair..... Banana TRS looks better and better every moment 🤣 🤣 🤣
 
#75
Templates are useful. Years ago, I took the time to make a template for IEC mains outlets. It's not sturdy, just aluminium, but it allows me to quickly (and accurately) mark the awkward hole to be cut and filed. I really ought to make another for mains inlets. Similarly, I made a template for door handles. When She Who Must Be Obeyed "requested" replacement door handles, I discovered that the original handles were very badly fitted, with screws going in at all angles and inaccurately positioned (even by woodworking standards, let alone engineering standards). The holes were drilled then plugged with kebab skewers (tapped in with a soft hammer), cut off cleanly with a scalpel, and the template allowed me to position new holes accurately - often part-way across old holes. It took an afternoon to change all the door handles, but the template made it a (fairly) easy job, just tedious.

I'd stick with the XLR rather than TRS jack. There's a reason why XLRs are ubiquitous in professional kit. The place for a TRS jack is on a jackfield, but they still need cleaning and a quick twist each time you plug one in. XLRs just work.
 
#77
Possibly this may have to do with either sources and/or amplifiers having standard XLR already fitted. Any combination with mini XLR would mean dreadful adaptercables and this 2x so in 2 directions.

I stock a few superior Lemo types but also don’t use them for this purpose for the same reason.

Just bring your DIY DAC with BNC inputs to a listening test 😉
 
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#78
czgagi said:
What is the reason that everyone seems to ignore the existence of mini XLR
Click to expand...
Hi, similar as Jean Paul said; I already have piles of XLR sockets, plugs and ready cables, they are everywhere on commercial equipment. Mini XLR's I need to buy and make adapter hybrid cables to connect anything commercial or whatever I built as so far.... It is not bad at all, but it is difficult to change standard, especially when nobody else is using it..
I personally feel sorry that DIN did not took off at the time, good quality gold plated 5 pin DIN would be great if in use.
 
#80
Lemo connectors are indeed great, but to me overkill for audio use. The handling capability is hard to justify where you usually just plug in and leave.
Mini XLR/XLR hybrid cables are readily available.
I understand that changing the standard is not convenient, but after all there are not that much choices to cause great chaos. Just my opinion.
 
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