2 subjects my opinion and summary:
I also see absolutely no issues with banana TRS jacks at all, good contacts, cheaper and less panel estate occupying than XLR, simple to drill holes... Does the job for balanced connector or single ended stereo, widely available even not popular in "hi end".
Downsides of TRS are few; it does not connect pin 1 or Sleeve directly to chassis, so that needs to be soldered and it doesn't allow more pins (4 contact TSR is pain to solder, expensive and rare) neither different connections (data, RCA, Speakon, powercon....)
My RME soundcard, 8 analog in and 8 analog out is packed with them, no problem.
Back mounted XLR eases drilling job dramatically and only limit is max 3mm back panel thickness. Not a big deal really, only when mounting at speakers box front mounting is mandatory, but material is then softer to file than metal.
Big benefit of XLR hole size is that allows for all types of connections in same hole size.
As so far I did not see suggestion for easy and massive DIY XLR hole drilling, especially for front mounting, that's fine. I might start use more banana jacks in experimental, and probably also permanent, designs. That's good reminder @markbakk
I also see absolutely no issues with banana TRS jacks at all, good contacts, cheaper and less panel estate occupying than XLR, simple to drill holes... Does the job for balanced connector or single ended stereo, widely available even not popular in "hi end".
Downsides of TRS are few; it does not connect pin 1 or Sleeve directly to chassis, so that needs to be soldered and it doesn't allow more pins (4 contact TSR is pain to solder, expensive and rare) neither different connections (data, RCA, Speakon, powercon....)
My RME soundcard, 8 analog in and 8 analog out is packed with them, no problem.
Back mounted XLR eases drilling job dramatically and only limit is max 3mm back panel thickness. Not a big deal really, only when mounting at speakers box front mounting is mandatory, but material is then softer to file than metal.
Big benefit of XLR hole size is that allows for all types of connections in same hole size.
As so far I did not see suggestion for easy and massive DIY XLR hole drilling, especially for front mounting, that's fine. I might start use more banana jacks in experimental, and probably also permanent, designs. That's good reminder @markbakk
Agreed. XLRs are fiddly to fit. I use Q-Max chassis punches to make the large hole, but 3mm aluminium is their limit. After that, a selection of good quality files to do the twiddly bits. I find accurate metalbashing to be quite soothing, so I have the appropriate tools. Step drills are useful too. Probably the most useful tool when cutting awkward holes is a light on a gooseneck that can shine from underneath and make your scribed lines easily visible. Sounds obvious, but being able to easily see what you're doing makes all the difference in the world. That, and having a selection of good files easily to hand.
Fitting XLRs to 6mm metal really requires machine tools - boring head on a mill. Or pay someone else to do the job. Anything can be done by hand, but it will take time and require skill and patience.
If you want to feel better about XLRs, fit a 9-pin D-connector for serial data. Yesterday, I used a 2mm cutter on the mill to cut the two long slots and I'll do the short angled bits by hand. It will come out neatly but an XLR is easy by comparison because it has nice big flanges to cover the hole.
Fitting XLRs to 6mm metal really requires machine tools - boring head on a mill. Or pay someone else to do the job. Anything can be done by hand, but it will take time and require skill and patience.
If you want to feel better about XLRs, fit a 9-pin D-connector for serial data. Yesterday, I used a 2mm cutter on the mill to cut the two long slots and I'll do the short angled bits by hand. It will come out neatly but an XLR is easy by comparison because it has nice big flanges to cover the hole.
Get the panel laser-cut or water jet-cut with whatever openings you need, and then just make one big rectangular opening and screw it on with 4 screws. Or more than 4 screws, if EMI is a major issue and you need a better shield bond.
Alternately, if you don't mind the extra cost and extra labour, and your system is fully DIY, you could go with bayonet-style twin-ax connectors. From a technical perspective they are even better than XLR, but they're practically never used for audio (because they're overkill) 🙂. But, the holes for those connectors are usually round, so that kind of answers your original question...
Alternately, if you don't mind the extra cost and extra labour, and your system is fully DIY, you could go with bayonet-style twin-ax connectors. From a technical perspective they are even better than XLR, but they're practically never used for audio (because they're overkill) 🙂. But, the holes for those connectors are usually round, so that kind of answers your original question...
I use all Neutriks, DL series mainly.
Funny, now when looking at catalogue, Neutrik doesn't even specify complicated opening for front mounting, Page 30 of enclosed shows only back mounting 🤔 🤣
https://www.neutrik.com/media/10098...n XLR Connectors PG EN 202202-V23_opt.pdf?v=7
Since with a 6mm panel you are forced to use front mounting, I'm not sure about the above statement (bold is mine) as I'm sure that no slot is needed.
If you can do me a favor 😍, please measure with a caliper the maximum diameter of the rear of both the male and female Neutrik sockets and let me know which one it is because I don't remember exactly from memory and I couldn't find
the dozens of DL sockets that I've placed somewhere (and I don't even want to open my amp to do it). Thanks!Hi,
This is universal Neutrik, 21.5 mm barrel with 4 slots, 3 small ones for centering and one large for release lever
If one makes just one 23.6 mm hole (24mm is also ok) XLR can be mounted from back or from front regardless, Pins fall in hole diameter then and have no function, socket is centered by mounting screws only. See black panel below, one socket from front and one from back.
If we make tighter 21.6 mm hole (22 is ok) than slots are needed and XLR is centered. , See gray panel below, on this one someone opened large second vertical slot too to make possible upside down installation as well.
I started this short thread to see other experience in making slotted holes, But I see it is not easy for anyone (except ordering whole pre-drilled panel, or whole chassis) and it is not such big deal, but it is very nice to have tight slotted holes... I was wandering if anyone knows where to get dedicated punch or broaching tool for these slots.
But since there is no quick answer, and issue is not fundamental, I would cease discussion about it....
Thanks to all for contribution,
Cheers,
Drazen
This is universal Neutrik, 21.5 mm barrel with 4 slots, 3 small ones for centering and one large for release lever
If one makes just one 23.6 mm hole (24mm is also ok) XLR can be mounted from back or from front regardless, Pins fall in hole diameter then and have no function, socket is centered by mounting screws only. See black panel below, one socket from front and one from back.
If we make tighter 21.6 mm hole (22 is ok) than slots are needed and XLR is centered. , See gray panel below, on this one someone opened large second vertical slot too to make possible upside down installation as well.
I started this short thread to see other experience in making slotted holes, But I see it is not easy for anyone (except ordering whole pre-drilled panel, or whole chassis) and it is not such big deal, but it is very nice to have tight slotted holes... I was wandering if anyone knows where to get dedicated punch or broaching tool for these slots.
But since there is no quick answer, and issue is not fundamental, I would cease discussion about it....
Thanks to all for contribution,
Cheers,
Drazen