Then the connectors could not be mounted as the holes would be as large as the outside of the connectors.
2 subjects my opinion and summary:
I also see absolutely no issues with banana TRS jacks at all, good contacts, cheaper and less panel estate occupying than XLR, simple to drill holes... Does the job for balanced connector or single ended stereo, widely available even not popular in "hi end".
Downsides of TRS are few; it does not connect pin 1 or Sleeve directly to chassis, so that needs to be soldered and it doesn't allow more pins (4 contact TSR is pain to solder, expensive and rare) neither different connections (data, RCA, Speakon, powercon....)
My RME soundcard, 8 analog in and 8 analog out is packed with them, no problem.
Back mounted XLR eases drilling job dramatically and only limit is max 3mm back panel thickness. Not a big deal really, only when mounting at speakers box front mounting is mandatory, but material is then softer to file than metal.
Big benefit of XLR hole size is that allows for all types of connections in same hole size.
As so far I did not see suggestion for easy and massive DIY XLR hole drilling, especially for front mounting, that's fine. I might start use more banana jacks in experimental, and probably also permanent, designs. That's good reminder @markbakk
I also see absolutely no issues with banana TRS jacks at all, good contacts, cheaper and less panel estate occupying than XLR, simple to drill holes... Does the job for balanced connector or single ended stereo, widely available even not popular in "hi end".
Downsides of TRS are few; it does not connect pin 1 or Sleeve directly to chassis, so that needs to be soldered and it doesn't allow more pins (4 contact TSR is pain to solder, expensive and rare) neither different connections (data, RCA, Speakon, powercon....)
My RME soundcard, 8 analog in and 8 analog out is packed with them, no problem.
Back mounted XLR eases drilling job dramatically and only limit is max 3mm back panel thickness. Not a big deal really, only when mounting at speakers box front mounting is mandatory, but material is then softer to file than metal.
Big benefit of XLR hole size is that allows for all types of connections in same hole size.
As so far I did not see suggestion for easy and massive DIY XLR hole drilling, especially for front mounting, that's fine. I might start use more banana jacks in experimental, and probably also permanent, designs. That's good reminder @markbakk
Agreed. XLRs are fiddly to fit. I use Q-Max chassis punches to make the large hole, but 3mm aluminium is their limit. After that, a selection of good quality files to do the twiddly bits. I find accurate metalbashing to be quite soothing, so I have the appropriate tools. Step drills are useful too. Probably the most useful tool when cutting awkward holes is a light on a gooseneck that can shine from underneath and make your scribed lines easily visible. Sounds obvious, but being able to easily see what you're doing makes all the difference in the world. That, and having a selection of good files easily to hand.
Fitting XLRs to 6mm metal really requires machine tools - boring head on a mill. Or pay someone else to do the job. Anything can be done by hand, but it will take time and require skill and patience.
If you want to feel better about XLRs, fit a 9-pin D-connector for serial data. Yesterday, I used a 2mm cutter on the mill to cut the two long slots and I'll do the short angled bits by hand. It will come out neatly but an XLR is easy by comparison because it has nice big flanges to cover the hole.
Fitting XLRs to 6mm metal really requires machine tools - boring head on a mill. Or pay someone else to do the job. Anything can be done by hand, but it will take time and require skill and patience.
If you want to feel better about XLRs, fit a 9-pin D-connector for serial data. Yesterday, I used a 2mm cutter on the mill to cut the two long slots and I'll do the short angled bits by hand. It will come out neatly but an XLR is easy by comparison because it has nice big flanges to cover the hole.
Get the panel laser-cut or water jet-cut with whatever openings you need, and then just make one big rectangular opening and screw it on with 4 screws. Or more than 4 screws, if EMI is a major issue and you need a better shield bond.
Alternately, if you don't mind the extra cost and extra labour, and your system is fully DIY, you could go with bayonet-style twin-ax connectors. From a technical perspective they are even better than XLR, but they're practically never used for audio (because they're overkill) 🙂. But, the holes for those connectors are usually round, so that kind of answers your original question...
Alternately, if you don't mind the extra cost and extra labour, and your system is fully DIY, you could go with bayonet-style twin-ax connectors. From a technical perspective they are even better than XLR, but they're practically never used for audio (because they're overkill) 🙂. But, the holes for those connectors are usually round, so that kind of answers your original question...