I like the monoblock idea. Cool. From transportability standpoint it is nice and lighter weight.
These might be useful safety devices. Use to to trigger a flip flop on an input AC relay. Or worst case it will power cycle on and off to keep temps below limit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3332485703...Y9mcKZ3Rq-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
These might be useful safety devices. Use to to trigger a flip flop on an input AC relay. Or worst case it will power cycle on and off to keep temps below limit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3332485703...Y9mcKZ3Rq-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Thanks, all! Looks like I’ll go with the shoebox monos. It will be a little tricky securing everything, but that is all part of the fun.
There will be opportunity for some kind of babysitter under the heatsinks if needed.
I had started planning this build with a cooling tunnel in mind, but my AliExp order got cancelled, so I moved on from that.
Another idea was to dismantle and repurpose the sinks from this PA chassis…
Never-ending options.
There will be opportunity for some kind of babysitter under the heatsinks if needed.
I had started planning this build with a cooling tunnel in mind, but my AliExp order got cancelled, so I moved on from that.
Another idea was to dismantle and repurpose the sinks from this PA chassis…
Never-ending options.
Attachments
Resolution does not tell the whole story. You also look at uncertainty and noise. Ultimately, if you are just trying to match transistors, cheap power supplies could work just fine. If you want to look at gate leakage of a very low current gate, you would need better performance than a cheap power supply could offer.
I will state unequivocally that the Keithley 2602B is overkill for the average hobbyist. High end audio is rife with examples of overkill in every degree of freedom measureable. I think that reveling in overkill is a requirement if you dabble in high end audio. I enjoy having professional grade tools in pursuits other than transistor curve tracing. My every day acoustic guitar is also one of Paul Simon's favorite guitars.
Here is a link of Paul Simon playing his Gurian Guitar. There may be 5000 of these guitars in existence. I have two of them, a mahogany and a rosewood.
Placing each device in its own plastic bag is simple and is inexpensive. Stickers fall off. Each bag is a few pennies cost. These devices do not seem to be prone to electrostatic destruction. Plastic bags make it simple to see the printout and make matched pairs.
Hi X,
it's time to work on this project 🙂
I'm planning (maybe) to build the version with the single IXTK, and would use one big heatsink for it and another one for the LU. The heatsink is 150x140x130 mm - would it be big enough?
A further question, can I use the boards I bought?
Thanks in advance!
it's time to work on this project 🙂
I'm planning (maybe) to build the version with the single IXTK, and would use one big heatsink for it and another one for the LU. The heatsink is 150x140x130 mm - would it be big enough?
A further question, can I use the boards I bought?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Plott,
What is the W/deg C rating for that heatsink? It might be fine for the IXTK and another one for the LU1014? So 2 of the same ones?
I think this amp dissipates 3A x 28v = 84W. Only about 15W is on the LU1014 so the bulk of it is on the IXYS at about 70W.
A Noctua fan on top of this will certainly let it handle up to 200W.
if you bought the boards already, sure they will work. Those are the latest version.
What is the W/deg C rating for that heatsink? It might be fine for the IXTK and another one for the LU1014? So 2 of the same ones?
I think this amp dissipates 3A x 28v = 84W. Only about 15W is on the LU1014 so the bulk of it is on the IXYS at about 70W.
A Noctua fan on top of this will certainly let it handle up to 200W.
if you bought the boards already, sure they will work. Those are the latest version.
Thanks X, yes, one for the LU and one for the IXTK.
Sadly, no rating available for the heatsink.
Sadly, no rating available for the heatsink.
Okay, thanks, I just wanted to keep things simple (and small), that's why I planned with one IXTK.
Hi,
I just can't let go of the idea of an IXTK. I have never used a fan so I would like to know if an airflow of 74 m3/h (about 2600 cubic feet) would be sufficient? I found a Noctua with only 8dB noise level. Or another with 115 m3/h and 12 dB noise level.
Many thanks in advance.
I just can't let go of the idea of an IXTK. I have never used a fan so I would like to know if an airflow of 74 m3/h (about 2600 cubic feet) would be sufficient? I found a Noctua with only 8dB noise level. Or another with 115 m3/h and 12 dB noise level.
Many thanks in advance.
Get a $5 PWM fan speed controller and set it to lowest air flow rate that cools the amp sufficiently to keep heatsink below 55C. This has a temp sensor you can stick in heatsink air flow and it boosts speed if needed. You will have plenty of airflow at max capacity. The Noctua’s are inaudible at lower speeds and barely audible at their higher speeds. 12dB is inaudible I think as background noise in a normal home when quiet is about 35dB.
Sound pretty good indeed.🙂 Can we just use dual supply for lufo ? More larger resistors as R3. make it more easily adopt our fav LPSs.
LuFo is inherently a single rail amp. SuSyLu is dual single rail and balanced output with DC coupling.
Sadly not alot of reviews for this amp. I am looking for an amp that can replace my Modded Ayima 3255. Has anyone compared the two amps?
Greets Klaus
Greets Klaus
Well, I guess you'd be aware if someone took your modded Ayima to compared it with a LuFo (or anything else).
That said, I am sure I'd enjoy a LuFo much more than a small Class-D amp.
That said, I am sure I'd enjoy a LuFo much more than a small Class-D amp.