Hello X,
That is some strategic damping placement in the rear most section.
Is that derived from Akabak or measurement and is the length of damping along the line that long because of the taper ratio used?
I built 3 boxes, one is a "test and tune".
Getting there slowly.
I have attached 2 pics of my progress.
18mm Ply.
Crossover will be external.
Rear terminus.
Line length is 47.50 inches with damping along first 33 inches
.
The Blue foam is from Amazon, nothing special, vendor who could deliver to my timetable had Red or Blue, I prefer Blue.
Melamine foam in position as per sim by WAE in post #270
Acousta-Stuf to be inserted in beginning of line when I get to that stage.
Thanks again for all your contributions to DIYAUDIO.
That is some strategic damping placement in the rear most section.
Is that derived from Akabak or measurement and is the length of damping along the line that long because of the taper ratio used?
I built 3 boxes, one is a "test and tune".
Getting there slowly.
I have attached 2 pics of my progress.
18mm Ply.
Crossover will be external.
Rear terminus.
Line length is 47.50 inches with damping along first 33 inches
The Blue foam is from Amazon, nothing special, vendor who could deliver to my timetable had Red or Blue, I prefer Blue.
Melamine foam in position as per sim by WAE in post #270
Acousta-Stuf to be inserted in beginning of line when I get to that stage.
Thanks again for all your contributions to DIYAUDIO.
I try to place driver anywhere from 1/5th to 1/3rd distance from closed end. Those are the best according to simulation for smooth response with least reflection from exit terminus. There are cases where 1/2 works too.So, is position c.) the magical spot?? and what is the science behind that. Of-course this is just the modeling software, but that's what we have until we build and measure.
Ideally it is 1/3rd.
Super work, Andrewbee!
Looks very nice. When you cap off the other side make sure to use lots of glue. You don’t want any air leaks along the channels. It’s like not covering holes on a flute carefully and you won’t hit the low C.
Looks very nice. When you cap off the other side make sure to use lots of glue. You don’t want any air leaks along the channels. It’s like not covering holes on a flute carefully and you won’t hit the low C.
Thanks X,
Yes any leak will be catastrophic. I use P.L. Premium 3X adhesive which is viscous and expands slightly so fingers crossed the enclosure will be well sealed.
Yes any leak will be catastrophic. I use P.L. Premium 3X adhesive which is viscous and expands slightly so fingers crossed the enclosure will be well sealed.
Greetings X,
Both boxes sealed. Those are the pics in the post above.
One crosssover completed and working on the other. I tested both boxes on Saturday with the one crossover and so far so good.
I used a Nuforce DDA 120 and CD into the converter of the DDA 120 (convenient). It makes sound and sounds okay but the Nuforce is not exactly particularly good sounding in my opinion so no "review" yet.
I will say the bass is certainly TL like and not like a reflex box.
You may notice the 0.1mH inductor is not the recommended one but it was what P.E. had available.
Also note the repaired 12.5R resistor which I dropped but luckily the conductor was not broken. Cyanoacrylate glue to the rescue.
Enclosures were about 5 feet from the front wall and about the same from the side walls in a ~700 ft3 room.
Bass output was quite strong (in mono!) even with the Nuforce which I have found to have underwhelming bass so the enclosure works well.
This was just a test to see if the enclosures worked (no leaks) and verify the crossover.
Hopefully will get so more testing done along with the other crossover this weekend.
I would tell you they have output at 20Hz but I still cannot believe it.
I put a 20Hz tone through them while testing for the cutoff and the woofer was dancing away and I don't mean straining to hear it either. Yes its going to be heavily distorted but I have few drivers even significantly larger in size that have any output at all at even 35Hz.
The bad...... These need a lot of power, I would say 50W at a minimum required.
Watch this space
Both boxes sealed. Those are the pics in the post above.
One crosssover completed and working on the other. I tested both boxes on Saturday with the one crossover and so far so good.
I used a Nuforce DDA 120 and CD into the converter of the DDA 120 (convenient). It makes sound and sounds okay but the Nuforce is not exactly particularly good sounding in my opinion so no "review" yet.
I will say the bass is certainly TL like and not like a reflex box.
You may notice the 0.1mH inductor is not the recommended one but it was what P.E. had available.
Also note the repaired 12.5R resistor which I dropped but luckily the conductor was not broken. Cyanoacrylate glue to the rescue.
Enclosures were about 5 feet from the front wall and about the same from the side walls in a ~700 ft3 room.
Bass output was quite strong (in mono!) even with the Nuforce which I have found to have underwhelming bass so the enclosure works well.
This was just a test to see if the enclosures worked (no leaks) and verify the crossover.
Hopefully will get so more testing done along with the other crossover this weekend.
I would tell you they have output at 20Hz but I still cannot believe it.
I put a 20Hz tone through them while testing for the cutoff and the woofer was dancing away and I don't mean straining to hear it either. Yes its going to be heavily distorted but I have few drivers even significantly larger in size that have any output at all at even 35Hz.
The bad...... These need a lot of power, I would say 50W at a minimum required.
Watch this space
Nice work Andrewbee! I see now your fold went out the back for the vent.
I would not have expected anything much at 20Hz. But glad you got some nice bass. They are indeed only about 82.5dB sensitive so 35W to 50W amp is needed.
You can play with the stuffing to get the quality of the bass to suit you. More will be tighter and more cohesive sounding but less in amplitude and not as deep in frequency.
My pre-production TL’s should be arriving by DHL in a few days. I’m looking forward to hearing them.
I would not have expected anything much at 20Hz. But glad you got some nice bass. They are indeed only about 82.5dB sensitive so 35W to 50W amp is needed.
You can play with the stuffing to get the quality of the bass to suit you. More will be tighter and more cohesive sounding but less in amplitude and not as deep in frequency.
My pre-production TL’s should be arriving by DHL in a few days. I’m looking forward to hearing them.
Nice build!Hello X,
That is some strategic damping placement in the rear most section.
Is that derived from Akabak or measurement and is the length of damping along the line that long because of the taper ratio used?
I built 3 boxes, one is a "test and tune".
Getting there slowly.
I have attached 2 pics of my progress.
18mm Ply.
Crossover will be external.
Rear terminus.
Line length is 47.50 inches with damping along first 33 inchesView attachment 1155540View attachment 1155541.
The Blue foam is from Amazon, nothing special, vendor who could deliver to my timetable had Red or Blue, I prefer Blue.
Melamine foam in position as per sim by WAE in post #270
Acousta-Stuf to be inserted in beginning of line when I get to that stage.
Thanks again for all your contributions to DIYAUDIO.
Can you please update the thickness of the blue form?
The bamboo cabinet turned out really nice. Brand new crossover for this speaker. Sounds super - wonderful deep bass and very nice mid range and highs.
Thats absolutely gorgeous X. Any idea on pricing and availability? Its not like I need a pair but .....
Don’t quote me because I am not the marketing department but I think $2k and availability about 4 months.
With the help and support from Mr. XR971, I completed my First TL speaker.
Listening to TL first time in my life...
Thanks, @xrk971, for this lovely design and for answering all queries during the build.
Thanks to @jmascreen and other members for the reference photos.
I have used locally available 5.25" driver specs similar to DC130. This will be two-way active.
Nice bass; I am trying to find the optimal level of stuffing; the cabinet is not closed yet.
Listening to TL first time in my life...
Thanks, @xrk971, for this lovely design and for answering all queries during the build.
Thanks to @jmascreen and other members for the reference photos.
I have used locally available 5.25" driver specs similar to DC130. This will be two-way active.
Nice bass; I am trying to find the optimal level of stuffing; the cabinet is not closed yet.
Attachments
TL with DC130A woofer and RST28F tweeter now mounted - now up and running and sounding great. Very full rich bass.
Printed a binding post panel for the Viborg posts:
Assembled and playing music:
Binding posts attached:
Printed a binding post panel for the Viborg posts:
Assembled and playing music:
Binding posts attached:
If you used RST28F and DC130A-8 with XO for Foamcore homage to LS3/5A, then it’s essentially the same. I am using slightly different values on resistors of 12.5R at both places.
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