Line Amp Capable of +35dbu

@jaddie , does that mean that in your experience, these transformers give a reasonably flat response when the primary is driven from the intended impedance and the secondary is loaded with a much higher impedance? That would be nice, as it simplifies things.

I also don't see the point of the whole exercise, although I think sound quality improvements were more something of the first century of audio, or maybe the first 110 years. The quality of at least popular recordings have been in steady decline over the last few decades, the same holds for the equipment most people use to listen to them.

Anyway, I wonder if you won't need even more voltage to drive the transformer in saturation with music. Unless the music is church organ music or synthesizer music with very deep bass, chances are that the number of volt-seconds is smaller than with a 30 Hz sine wave.

By the way, the amplifier is 60 W into 4 ohm when you use it as a stereo amplifier, like Obe1cannoli intends to do.
 
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Assuming you don't need an RC network, the schematic would be like this. I included attenuators to get the output level back to something reasonable.

20220505_103241.jpg
 
If RC networks should be required, it would become something like this. The values of the extra resistors and capacitors may then have to be determined experimentally.

View attachment 1051334

I would drop the 150 ohm resistor to a pair of 33 ohm ones to make a lower impedance balanced source. 1/2 watt carbon composition ones should be fine.

As to the output load capacitors, .022 uF should provide the load at the upper frequencies to prevent ringing. You don’t need to load the secondary across the entire bandwidth to accomplish that. Although trying.01 uF might show more of what is wanted. Switching in a second .01 or even larger across the first one might give a flavor switch to see what is preferred.

Normally the use of this type of distortion is to make the low end stand out more. The increase in distortion is frequency dependent thus emphasizing the LF.

Using diodes or say germanium transistors will give a fuzz box effect which is quite different.
 
Does the dB loss by terminating the transformer with 600R even matter when the point here is to drive the 111C to saturation? Isn't that just determined by the input voltage?

Since I'm still learning about transformers, I was reading that the source impedance has an effect on low end distortion. Maybe a 1-2k rheostat could be used on the input to help "tune" things?
 
Does the dB loss by terminating the transformer with 600R even matter when the point here is to drive the 111C to saturation? Isn't that just determined by the input voltage?

Since I'm still learning about transformers, I was reading that the source impedance has an effect on low end distortion. Maybe a 1-2k rheostat could be used on the input to help "tune" things?

The load resistance will drop the voltage to the transformer as there is a source resistance.
 
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He doesn't need to load the transformer output with a capacitor. It's unnecessary in this application. Most 111C transformers in the world were never loaded with a cap.

You do realize that saturation is a curve, right? Level vs Frequency. And a rather steep one. I posted that curve for a Jensen 123, and the 111C is similar in shape. The target was +30dBu, but frankly, that's way too low if you want to saturate mid-band. Going back to Post #45, if you really want transformer "color", use a different transformer that will saturate at a sane level.

The Samson in question is 60/side into 4, 55/side into 8.

Everybody forgets that saturation, and the audible distortion that results, is a PEAK function, specifically Peak-to-peak. Everybody's calculating RMS levels. Yes, the distortion graphs reference RMS, but the actual distortion mechanism, saturation, happens on peaks, we only measure it at RMS values. It's audible at peak values, and audibility is dependent on the complex combination of frequency of saturation, level, and what else is in the spectrum that might either mask harmonics or be intermodulated. Unless the OP want's horrific amounts of distortion, 120w should be enough.

I don't disagree that the 111C could be wired for 150/600, and the termination resistor could be left off. And that's why you can also forget about the RC compensation net. This is now an "effects" box. All options are open. I'd even suggest a pair of back-to-back diodes and a couple of resistors, if you want so extra crunch.

Might as well say this now: when it comes to tranformer distortion boxes generating "glue", or whatever, I still don't get it. In the last 50+ years of audio technology development one of the primary goals has been to reduce or eliminate distortion of all kinds. We have some excellent examples of the resulting recordings. They didn't need any glue, gunk, or glop to "improve" anything. And with the dizzying array of device-simulating plug-ins that provude the user to a full palette of effects colors that are predictable, repeatable, and even removable, I fail to understand why anyeone would want to introduce deliberate, wild, nonlinearity into a perfectly clean system. I will eventually have my how high-level 111C driver to play with, so perhaps my days of not understand this are coming to a middle.

But hey, it's an effect. A rather permanent one, but never the less. So are back-to-back diodes, but nobody talks about that really cheap distortion generator.
I had mentioned the 60w into 4ohm (peak) thing and asked if that was overlooked and no one answered me. If so, I presume that could change the recommendations by Marcel and Simon.

Your point about peak is very important. This thing will start to distort at low frequencies with peaks. As soon as I hear low end distortion from peaks I will not push it any further, so there will be no need to put any more power into it at that point. Im not going to use this as a send effect where I only send midrange to it or something, that causes delay problems. I'm just going to slap it on the mix bus.
 
If RC networks should be required, it would become something like this. The values of the extra resistors and capacitors may then have to be determined experimentally.

View attachment 1051334
Thank you for taking the time to draw these schematics. I appreciate the time and effort.

I think my plan A will be to go with the simple setup Jaddie suggested as it will not take long at all to put together. I'll rig it up and see how much I can get out of it. If it's not enough, I will start working on the above schematic.
 
The use of OPA551/552 op amps earlier in this thread reminded of Pete Millet's work using op amps to drive tubes. He has a pcb designed for the OPA452/453 here. He measured 0.005% at 20VRMS. It looks like you've found a solution with power amps. But this could be another option.
Thanks for your input. I really wish I had more knowledge with making circuits because it would be much more fun to design my own tailored solution, but I don't. Even though the circuit looked pretty simple in the link you provided, it's still out of my league. The power amp route only requires me to add a couple of resistors to the output, which is something I can handle. Thanks again though!
 
I'm on vacation and a little bored, so I think I'll build the OPA552 circuit I proposed and see how it turns out. The simulation says it can output 39.5Vrms @ 0.016% THD into a 600Ω load before clipping.

Not sure if the PDIP version can handle ~1.3W output though. I also have the DDPAK version that I could attach heat sinks to, but those would be alittle more difficult to work with on a perfboard.

Let's say I build it, it works as planned, and I want to donate it to someone ;). What value output resistor should I use? Something low so the recipient can add more resistance in series if needed?
 
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I'm on vacation and a little bored, so I think I'll build the OPA552 circuit I proposed and see how it turns out. The simulation says it can output 39.5Vrms @ 0.016% THD into a 600Ω load before clipping.

Not sure if the PDIP version can handle ~1.3W output though. I also have the DDPAK version that I could attach heat sinks to, but those would be alittle more difficult to work with on a perfboard.

Let's say I build it, it works as planned, and I want to donate it to someone ;). What value output resistor should I use? Something low so the recipient can add more resistance in series if needed?
I hope you're talking about me lol. If you are, and you're talking about the output resistance that will go to the transformer, I've been keeping everything at 600ohms. If you're not talking about me, then I will look very silly
 
I hope you're talking about me lol.
Hmmmm.
If you are, and you're talking about the output resistance that will go to the transformer, I've been keeping everything at 600ohms. If you're not talking about me, then I will look very silly
I'm still trying to wrap my head around using transformers myself, but I don't think 600R is ideal if the secondary is loaded with 600R. That would cause the low end response to be down -3dB I think. The source output impedance should be at least 10x lower(?). I'll let the pros weigh in on that one though.