Hi altsouza,
I purchased several of these boxes about 2 years ago from eBay: 2409H Silver Full Aluminum Enclosure / Mini AMP Case / Preamp Box / PSU Chassis | eBay
Today, I'm not sure if you can get these soon from China.
It is nice enclosure for small remote PSUs and such small setups as Allo USBridge Sig computer. I also use same box for my TT speed controller designed by Pyramid.
I purchased several of these boxes about 2 years ago from eBay: 2409H Silver Full Aluminum Enclosure / Mini AMP Case / Preamp Box / PSU Chassis | eBay
Today, I'm not sure if you can get these soon from China.
It is nice enclosure for small remote PSUs and such small setups as Allo USBridge Sig computer. I also use same box for my TT speed controller designed by Pyramid.
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hello folks.
do I need to use some sort of heat conducting paste between the diodes and sinks? and/or get a nut & bolt to join them tightly?
I plan on using them on a pi3 and a diyinhk xmos multichannel board for which I have ordered a cheap 9v/30VA torroidal trafo - does the serialising of the 115v primaries for UK 230v have any effect on the secondaries? ie. am I still going to get ~2x 1.66A @9v from them?
do I need to use some sort of heat conducting paste between the diodes and sinks? and/or get a nut & bolt to join them tightly?
I plan on using them on a pi3 and a diyinhk xmos multichannel board for which I have ordered a cheap 9v/30VA torroidal trafo - does the serialising of the 115v primaries for UK 230v have any effect on the secondaries? ie. am I still going to get ~2x 1.66A @9v from them?
Hi
You surely need to tighten the semiconductors on the sinks. Don't overdo it. Finger tight force should be enough. M3 size nuts and bolts. Your Pi3 should not command an external heatsinking solution for this PSU. The board level sinks are enough. Because those sinks are not electrically connected between them you may avoid the tedious task of also insulating the semiconductors with Silpads and nylon grommets.
Given you will remember not to allow contact of the on-board live sinks to a metal surface or metal box. Also no wires should be touching them.
No insulation pads when able also means less thermal resistance. Its the builder's evaluation choice if fully safe in his planed circumstances of installation. And yes, a bit of thermal paste on a near center spot behind each semiconductor's tab on a sink is very good to use. As you tight them surfaces together it spreads flat going where it should. Smoothing out micro anomalies of the mating metal surfaces thus boosting heat travel between them.
To serialize the 115V primaries for double mains level between US and Europe has no effect to the power spec of the secondaries.
You surely need to tighten the semiconductors on the sinks. Don't overdo it. Finger tight force should be enough. M3 size nuts and bolts. Your Pi3 should not command an external heatsinking solution for this PSU. The board level sinks are enough. Because those sinks are not electrically connected between them you may avoid the tedious task of also insulating the semiconductors with Silpads and nylon grommets.
Given you will remember not to allow contact of the on-board live sinks to a metal surface or metal box. Also no wires should be touching them.
No insulation pads when able also means less thermal resistance. Its the builder's evaluation choice if fully safe in his planed circumstances of installation. And yes, a bit of thermal paste on a near center spot behind each semiconductor's tab on a sink is very good to use. As you tight them surfaces together it spreads flat going where it should. Smoothing out micro anomalies of the mating metal surfaces thus boosting heat travel between them.
To serialize the 115V primaries for double mains level between US and Europe has no effect to the power spec of the secondaries.
My Rpi running off L-Ad.....only running as ethernet streamer, no wifi...hdd etc...so it is a fairly low demand. Heatsinks on LAd very mildly warm....not remotely hot.
Salas' post #153, page 16, vertical DCG3 board (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/power-supplies/760414d1559459460t-adapter-img_20190511_173034-jpg):
How thick was this aluminium plate?
How thick was this aluminium plate?
Nice
Is it meant to be powering something relatively light? Because I see no bridge diode sinks.
First impressions with the L-Adaptor with the RPi 2, am running with MoOde Audio on it: WOW. The bass extension is evident over the LT3042 LDO module. Music seems to be more effortless and flowing more freely. I like it.
Thanks Salas for your gift to the community.
Thanks Salas for your gift to the community.
Just wanted to write a note of thanks to Salas and Teabag for this fun project. I bought 4 boards from Teabag, ordered a bag of parts from Mouser, and spent an afternoon this past weekend putting them together. I tested them with a small 5v transformer and all of them worked perfectly. Now I just need to get some bigger VA transformers and put them to work.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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Nice work!
Can you post the order number from this heatshink?
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It's in the BOM that Teabag published for the group buy. L-ADAPTER BOM DiyA - Google Sheets
Mouser part # 567-647-15ABPE
Mainly digital endpoints. The first use will be a Sonore Microrendu hooked to a Khadas Toneboard. So delivering ~6-7v at 1.5A. Then I've got a few Raspberry Pi / DAC Hat projects. And one will be given to my brother-in-law for his Pi/Hifiberry.