L-Adapter

[Malefoda]

Aren't there emissivity and reflected temperature controls to calibrate in the camera?

Frankly the interface is sluggish and not made by Apple. But there are many options to play with.
I guess it's all about what you said, as the DAC chip is surrounded by multiple nearby boards if they act like mirrors that's a problem!
A too big toy for a simple user, that confirms that the Fluke 179 is fine for me! Precise instruments are no easy toys...
https://www.distrimesure.com/fr/cam...mera-infrarouge-160-x-120-chauvin-arnoux.html

 

[killie99]

I presume it's ok to put an LED across the DC out to use as an on/off indicator or is there a better place to put the LED?

 

[dewdrop]

I presume it's ok to put an LED across the DC out to use as an on/off indicator or is there a better place to put the LED?

I would tap on the big caps to do that rather than at the output. ZM advises to put a resistor in series with the LED, with a value of 1K per voltage, so roughly 12K for a 12V.

 

[Salas]

Yes, better to avoid adding the LED's small noise to the output.

 

[killie99]

Thanks

 

[Blixa]

Yes, better to avoid adding the LED's small noise to the output.

Hi Salas, thanks for your work, just installed on my circuit, great..
I was wondering if it's possible put on/off led on D11 or if the best choice to avoid noises remains big caps.
The voltage on D11 is 3.2V circa, and it's suitable for blue led without resistor.
Thanks

 

[Salas]

Hi, D11 has surge capability for reverse voltage mishap protection that an LED can't match. Plus its noise would go right across the output transistor. Not a good place for an LED.

 

[Blixa]

Hi, D11 has surge capability for reverse voltage mishap protection that an LED can't match. Plus its noise would go right across the output transistor. Not a good place for an LED.

Thanks Salas, sorry for my low knowledge..

 

[Salas]

No worries. Red, green, yellow, amber LEDs aren't too terrible for noise (blue or white have more) when put across the output if someone absolutely must. Say its an afterthought and much easier to wire there now for some practical reason.

But if you can plan ahead why not powering all possible LED indicators from the raw DC side and avoid messing with the output side. To program an LED's current follow this simple equation If=(Vdc-LedVf)/R.

Example, if 10V is available say on the raw side, for a green Led of 2V forward voltage drop use 8.2k in series. Near 1mA current will result. Not to be much bright if on a panel. Still from the equation you can size the resistor's value lower for more mA thus brighter light.

 

[Blixa]

But if you can plan ahead why not powering all possible LED indicators from the raw DC side and avoid messing with the output side. To program an LED's current follow this simple equation If=(Vdc-LedVf)/R.

About raw DC do you mean from big caps, am i right?
Another option: i've available another 9v secondary, if i used it with an AC DC voltage regulator to connect led? Is it a right way?

Thanks Salas..

 

[Salas]

Right, I mean the "dirty DC" from big reservoir capacitors

No need to create another option for powering indicator LED

 

[Blixa]

Hi all, anyone used L power supply with Project Tube Box S?
I would like to substitute original SMPS with a linear supply, 18V 1A, suggestions?
Thanks

 

[euro21]

I use my Intel NUC (18V, 2-4A) from L-Adapter, so 1A is easy job.
You can use as least 3 times larger transformer as the load power.

 

[Salas]

Depending on what and how post regulators or switching converters inside he could possibly make a good upgrade by replacing an external SMPS for L-Adapter to a phono box. Lets see about his findings.

 

[LaserGecko]

Hi everyone,

Still trying to read through all fifty pages of this thread...

I ought to be able to power my RPi through the 5VDC connector on the HiFiBerry DAC+ Pro, correct?

Datasheet DAC+ Pro | HiFiBerry

Is there any reason to not use a two pin header connector? I have some with beefy wire from a few past Pi projects.

Thanks!

 

[johnm]

If using a wooden or plastic enclosure, and the standard onboard heatsinks as per the official BOM, do any of the four diodes or Q2 require thermal pads, and electrical isolation from the sinks? Cheers.

 

[Salas]

No not needed. Isolation pads are for not shorting diodes together from touching a common metal part be it a group sink or a metal case. But use at least a metal sheet to sit the transformer on and to bolt the mains protective earth near there. For better safety.

 

[johnm]

Brilliant, thanks Salas. It’s just for the testing stage really, I’ll likely get some pads anyway just for a ‘belt and braces’ approach

 

[johnm]

Got her up and running. Seems to be working beautifully. Am running an Rpi4, with SSD connected directly to it. Running an Allo Digione hat. Have set the L-adapter to 5.1V under load. 50VA 2 x 9V transformer, secondaries connected in parallel. Might be expectation bias, but I swear music sounds fuller bodied now, smoother and more ‘analogue’ like. VERY pleased! Will find a suitable case for it now. Thanks for another superb creation Salas!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[Salas]

You are welcome. Nice that you like it.