OPA2210 is an updated version of OPA2209 so that's a sensible substitution. Glad to hear the BOM works!
Getting there.
Just need to work out my GRND.
I thought I would just pop a quick pic here because it will be hard to take a photo when I connect it up.
This is the competition that will be going on.
Edit:
One other thing. Am I being thick?
How do I fit stand offs to the Kubelik regulator?
I am struggling to get a bolt down by the heatsink as the heads don't fit in the gap.
Just need to work out my GRND.
I thought I would just pop a quick pic here because it will be hard to take a photo when I connect it up.
This is the competition that will be going on.
Edit:
One other thing. Am I being thick?
How do I fit stand offs to the Kubelik regulator?
I am struggling to get a bolt down by the heatsink as the heads don't fit in the gap.
Last edited:
Oooops.
lucky I bought more than one 🙂
I have been soooo careful at each step.
Then I got carried away at the end.
Just popped the final cable in from the regulator to the kubelik.
Can't get those the wrong way round.....
I guess I didn't check them before I popped it on.
I just sent 20V into grnd on the kubelik.
I have minimum fizzed a cap.
I also have 30V into my regulator and 30V out of my regulator.
lucky I bought more than one 🙂
I have been soooo careful at each step.
Then I got carried away at the end.
Just popped the final cable in from the regulator to the kubelik.
Can't get those the wrong way round.....
I guess I didn't check them before I popped it on.
I just sent 20V into grnd on the kubelik.
I have minimum fizzed a cap.
I also have 30V into my regulator and 30V out of my regulator.
If I change the cap, and that is all that has gone, and everything is all good again.
Would the TP Voltages be the same as at the end of step 2 even though I have added more components?
Would the TP Voltages be the same as at the end of step 2 even though I have added more components?
You say your regulator is putting out 30V? If so then all bets are off as regards the TP voltages. I can't recommend exposing the DAC to 30V.
OK with 20V list your TPs then I'll run them against the schematic and figure out if anything's broken.
Sorry.
Thank you.
What a wally. I was so looking forward to hearing it.
I changed the obvious cap that sizzled first.
Which was the one right next to TP0.
TP1 1.24
TP2 2.48
TP3 1.75
TP8 2.73
TP6 1.63
TP7 1.56
TP9 1.04
TP10 1.02
Thank you.
What a wally. I was so looking forward to hearing it.
I changed the obvious cap that sizzled first.
Which was the one right next to TP0.
TP1 1.24
TP2 2.48
TP3 1.75
TP8 2.73
TP6 1.63
TP7 1.56
TP9 1.04
TP10 1.02
I removed C1 and tested C1. It came up fine.
I have continuity between GRND and 20V pin.
If it is not an easy diagnose for you, don't worry.
You spend enough time providing us with all of this.
I bought spare.
I have continuity between GRND and 20V pin.
If it is not an easy diagnose for you, don't worry.
You spend enough time providing us with all of this.
I bought spare.
Hi Abraxalito, the output caps in the Kubelik is quite a large value (220uf). What is the lowest i can go without too much sacrifice in the audible performance? i am looking at the possibility of connecting the output to an external board with a few MKP caps in parallel to make up the value needed.
i will need to increase the resistor value 33k that is tied to ground at the output right?
I would love to fix it.
I am entirely reliant on you though, so if you are happy to tell me what to do, I would love it.
Removed both opamps, you are definitely on the right lines. All good apart from the last four TP.
TP1 10.04
TP2 2.47
TP3 2.88
TP8 4.48
TP6 19.8
TP7 19.76
TP9 19.81
TP10 19.81
Does look a lot more promising. So let's have a go at getting sound out without the opamps.
First step is convert the I/V stage to passive rather than active transimpedance. To do this we short together pin 2 and pin 3 of both opamps (U7 and U8). Perhaps a spare very short piece of wire or a 0R resistor between those pins on both opamps will do the trick.
Next remove some parts which get in the way of the new scheme - R41,R61,C24 and C25 are to be desoldered.
Finally patch the output stage to the passive I/V - a wire from pin7 of U7 to R62 on the side away from the opamp. And another wire from pin7 U8 to R40 on the side away from the opamp.
Having done all those steps, measure TP6-TP10 again.
First step is convert the I/V stage to passive rather than active transimpedance. To do this we short together pin 2 and pin 3 of both opamps (U7 and U8). Perhaps a spare very short piece of wire or a 0R resistor between those pins on both opamps will do the trick.
Next remove some parts which get in the way of the new scheme - R41,R61,C24 and C25 are to be desoldered.
Finally patch the output stage to the passive I/V - a wire from pin7 of U7 to R62 on the side away from the opamp. And another wire from pin7 U8 to R40 on the side away from the opamp.
Having done all those steps, measure TP6-TP10 again.