Krill - The little amp that might...

[traderbam]

My interest in this circuit is purely on its operation and what exactly the non switching mechanisn at play here is, not misleading mambo jumbo marketing hype.

Good for you.

Go on Steve, explain your non-switching mechanism...

(not holding my breath)

 

[Steve Dunlap]

Good for you.

Go on Steve, explain your non-switching mechanism...

(not holding my breath)

I have explained it.

 

[ostripper]

Very confused at the dual standard being presented here.
I have read this thread and the other major DIYamp threads,
(DX and Quasi's thread). All 3 men have submitted designs
for the general enthusiast to try and enjoy, but for some
reason Steve's design (being different) has evoked demands
and sarcasm.

In the other 2 threads I have seen "constructive criticism" at
it's best, with a better design as the end result. Also , the
level of respect is where it should be.

Is this because the other 2 topologies are "schoolbook" (better
documented and more easily understood) or do some
just have a "hardon" for steve?

The Krill has 3 things going for it as a OPS.
#1 - it works - 1st time (better than 1/2 of the designs on the web).
#2 - it sounds good (better than 1/2 of the designs I've seen
around here).
#3 - It's creator (steve) has not given up despite all the
unproductive BS and demands.

So instead of demands and ego , why not channel all this
energy into furthering the design so we can
be happy with good sound ?(maybe we can learn more from
each other as well. 🙂 )
OS

 

[SOUND_Rays]

Dear Steve D.

I'm a musician & I Wonder to ask you some questions.
Can you please send me a PM, I'm a newbie here
so I can't contact You right now - I'm under moderation.

Thank You in advance.

Andrew

 

[traderbam]

So instead of demands and ego , why not channel all this
energy into furthering the design so we can
be happy with good sound ?(maybe we can learn more from
each other as well. 🙂 )
OS

Let's have some respect for honesty at DiyAudio.com.

Why not quit with apologizing for other people and act on your own advice?

To improve upon a design requires an intimate knowledge of how it works. So why don't you focus your effort into explaining how this OS avoids switching (or does not)!

 

[mannycc]

To improve upon a design requires an intimate knowledge of how it works. So why don't you focus your effort into explaining how this OS avoids switching (or does not)!

Gentlemen,
If you again receive explanation as you wish you must be thankful. But if not, as a matter of being civilized, believe there is no way you can demand, you have received more than enough. Not demanding? Look again.

Regards,
mannycc

 

[jkeny]

To improve upon a design requires an intimate knowledge of how it works. So why don't you focus your effort into explaining how this OS avoids switching (or does not)!

Hey Traderbarn
To [FONT=arial size=20] criticise[/FONT] a design requires an intimate knowledge of how it works. So why don't you focus your effort into explaining how this OS avoids switching (or does not)!

 

[c2cthomas]

Gentlemen,
If you again receive explanation as you wish you must be thankful. But if not, as a matter of being civilized, believe there is no way you can demand, you have received more than enough. Not demanding? Look again.

Regards,
mannycc

OK - here is a clue - see post # 54 for starts. There are other posts but I'm not going to do all of the work - those that really want to know will take the time to find the posts that pertain to this circuits theory of operation. Some people will find this circuit to be interesting enough to pursue construction of the circuit (a physical construction - not the simulated ones) so that further investigations can be undertaken and their knowledge of circuits and things audio be broadened. I will know soon - the construction of my 50W Krills is almost complete - and I will be posting information as to the test results soon (I hope - heck, the darn things might go up in a cloud of smoke).

 

[tinitus]

I dont want to start a pointless debate
But Steve has left once, and if he leaves again he wont come back
It was very clear that without Steve present here, discussion turned into pointless nonsense
Some care, some dont
I could go on, but think I will leave it at that

Anyway...to improve on a design I suppose starts with building, testing, measurements
Without a working testamp I dont see how to, or even why
Why at all do you think it needs improvements
But if someone really have the skills to do so, I hope he will just build it and show us how
But sure, I dont want to end the debate either 😉

 

[mannycc]

....but for some reason Steve's design (being different) has evoked demands and sarcasm.

Indeed, those are the expert on the field who love to be spoon-fed, who wanted instant result, and complain because the food is not known to them. What a childish behavior... why not grow up and answer their own questions?

Regards,
mannycc

 

[FrankWW]

Go on Steve, explain your non-switching mechanism...

post 32?

 

[ostripper]

by traderbam-Why not quit with apologizing for other people and act on your own advice

I don't apologize for others , I just stated a obvious fact.
(too many posts to count after page 50 or so)

You and Andy C. attempted to explain it's operation back on pages 49 to 53, then a month later come back to the thread to
take "jabs" and spew sarcasm. WTF 🙁

In my opinion the krill does sound better than a "blameless",
maybe that is the diamond at work.I have not built a permanent
pair because I agree it is a little too device dependant .
I have my PCB artwork and fresh FR4 ..so that will change.
OS

 

[c2cthomas]

post 32?

Good going Frank!! That's one - actually the 1st. There are others and some of them are very good. In the end I decided the best way to actually see and understand how this amp really works is to go ahead and build it. 😉

 

[PH104]

Steve --

given adequate heatsinking, how many pairs of 2SA1943/2SC5200 do you think can be driven by a single pair of drivers of the same type?

thanks

Phil

 

[Steve Dunlap]

Steve --

given adequate heatsinking, how many pairs of 2SA1943/2SC5200 do you think can be driven by a single pair of drivers of the same type?

thanks

Phil

I have used 6 pair with excellent results. Do you think that will be enough for your purpose?

 

[PH104]

Perfect. This is a very cool output stage and I'm having a lot of fun with it. It's very versatile as people have suggested. I'll continue to post experimental results in the 100W Krill builder's thread.

Thanks

 

[PH104]

I've started experimenting a little with different types of bias control transistors. I am using a Borbely-designed voltage gain stage with the Krill o/p stage. The output stage is identical to that in Steve's post #1460 (above) but using 4 pairs of output transistors.

I just substituted MJE340/MJE350 for the two bias control transistors (Q8 /Q11). I ran the amp for 30 minutes at 1 kHz, 10W continuous into an 8 ohm load. All worked fine with no problems. The voltage rails for the Krill o/p stage were +/- 56VDC.

I've got a few more pairs of different transistors to try there. I'm curious as to what will work before building the listening prototypes. I have 2SA1111/2SC2591, 2SA1209/2SC2911, and MJE15032/MJE15033 pairs to try out. I haven't checked out the SOA, gain, etc. on these yet but will.

 

[jkeny]

Thanks Phil for these experiments - I for one am following you avidly as I'm sure are lots of future Krill builders.

 

[PH104]

Thanks jkeny. I've settled on the 2SA1943/2SC5220 pairs for the drivers and outputs but curious about what works for Q7/Q10 and Q8/Q11. Although I don't have the ability to measure distortion yet, the circuit works just as Steve has described in terms of bias and offset adjustments. I'm looking forward to finishing both amps for listening.

Phil

 

[jkeny]

Phil,
I too will be using 2SA1943/2SC5220 pairs for the drivers and outputs & like you I'm wondering what the parameters are for the choice for Q7/Q10 and Q8/Q11. I'll be using mine as output stage run from a tube front end.