I saw the Rikens' length problem but it isn't too much of a problem - for such as small shortage I usually just bend both legs in a little under the resistor, with only 2mm or so increase per resistor. Otherwise just use Holco's, or perhaps the AudioNote Tantalums which I originally chose but ditched for just being too expensive.
Hi-
I was looking at the Holco's on Welbourne labs website and saw this:
http://www.welbornelabs.com/holco.htm
Unfortunately none are the sizes we needed for this amp... But if you have other projects....
I was looking at the Holco's on Welbourne labs website and saw this:
http://www.welbornelabs.com/holco.htm
Unfortunately none are the sizes we needed for this amp... But if you have other projects....
Hi all,
I have been away for several days on a business trip, but I'm back now 😉
Just give me some time to catch up on this thread 😉
Troy: Congratulations with the PCB's 😉
I have been away for several days on a business trip, but I'm back now 😉
Just give me some time to catch up on this thread 😉
Troy: Congratulations with the PCB's 😉
If you are aesthetic, go to the haberdashery and buy there glass beads or small glass tubes. These " devices " are ideal for making perfect distance over PCB. 😉
Upupa Epops said:If you are aesthetic, go to the haberdashery and buy there glass beads or small glass tubes. These " devices " are ideal for making perfect distance over PCB. 😉
What about the skin effect and dielectric properties of glass near the resistor? 😉 The next thing we will hear is creating pseudo tone controls from glassbeads and polyester fibre....
Quick question, I have seen MPSA42/92 used in the input stage of similar amps, would they work here,(i.e. Go MPSA throughout)?
At the last time when I saw glass tubes below devices, was in amp made by one most famous american manufacturer, only I don't remember, if it was K. or ML. These guys probably haven't problems with skin effect in insulator 😀 .
Not sure if these are jokes about not tilting the resistors, or about bending the leads. The method used in the pic I posted was only used for resistors that get warm. Regulare mounting was used otherwise.
-b
-b
I find that tilting the resistors in the direction of current flow helps give the sound an increased speed in it's attack at the leading edge of a struck note.
🙄
Anthony
🙄
Anthony
MPSA42/92
Pinkmouse,
I haven't checked the voltage and current ratings, but assuming those are in line with the 35v rails, I'd bet they'll work.
I'm from the Medway towns myself, though I live in Santa Cruz, Ca now. I'm going to be flying in to visit with family in a month or so, is there anything I can bring/carry? If you have anything in mind you should prolly email me, rather than pollute this thread...
Stuart
Pinkmouse,
I haven't checked the voltage and current ratings, but assuming those are in line with the 35v rails, I'd bet they'll work.
I'm from the Medway towns myself, though I live in Santa Cruz, Ca now. I'm going to be flying in to visit with family in a month or so, is there anything I can bring/carry? If you have anything in mind you should prolly email me, rather than pollute this thread...
Stuart
Re: MPSA42/92
Gents, I am sure they will work, however with the gain being lower than original components... I will stick with higher hfe components. Also marrying different types of components masks the coloration that occurs from using one type of component.... unless you like that kind of character.
😉
WorkingAtHome said:Not sure if these are jokes about not tilting the resistors, or about bending the leads. The method used in the pic I posted was only used for resistors that get warm. Regulare mounting was used otherwise.
-b
Stuart Easson said:Pinkmouse,
I haven't checked the voltage and current ratings, but assuming those are in line with the 35v rails, I'd bet they'll work.
I'm from the Medway towns myself, though I live in Santa Cruz, Ca now. I'm going to be flying in to visit with family in a month or so, is there anything I can bring/carry? If you have anything in mind you should prolly email me, rather than pollute this thread...
Stuart
Gents, I am sure they will work, however with the gain being lower than original components... I will stick with higher hfe components. Also marrying different types of components masks the coloration that occurs from using one type of component.... unless you like that kind of character.
😉
WorkingAtHome said:Not sure if these are jokes about not tilting the resistors, or about bending the leads. The method used in the pic I posted was only used for resistors that get warm. Regulare mounting was used otherwise.
-b
But ofcourse, it was in jest.

Gentlemen, are you sure, that you will listen difference between transistor with beta 100 and second one with beta 500 ? That it make " sound coloration " ? I'm personally very " amused to death ".
Maybe it's time for me to participate with a comment 😉
I have to agree with Pavel (Upupa) on that Hfe discussion...
Choose a transistor you like with Hfe between 15 and 400 😉
I have to agree with Pavel (Upupa) on that Hfe discussion...
Choose a transistor you like with Hfe between 15 and 400 😉
Coulomb said:I find that tilting the resistors in the direction of current flow helps give the sound an increased speed in it's attack at the leading edge of a struck note.
🙄
Anthony
LOL Nice one!
Cheers chaps.
I couldn't see a problem, but I thought I'd check with more knowledgable types like you lot! 🙂
Stu, you will have mail shortly, once I've finished sorting out my stash of bits.😉
I couldn't see a problem, but I thought I'd check with more knowledgable types like you lot! 🙂
Stu, you will have mail shortly, once I've finished sorting out my stash of bits.😉
Since i'm interested in the minute details..
K-Amps,
What parts will you be using? I'm interested to know now 🙂
I'm using motorola 15030/31's for the drivers for the outputs, i'm yet to source a bias transistor (i'm sure one of the ones i've got will do fine), but how much "difference" realistically would having different chips (other than mpsa) make? What ones will/have you planned to use?
Aaron
K-Amps,
What parts will you be using? I'm interested to know now 🙂
I'm using motorola 15030/31's for the drivers for the outputs, i'm yet to source a bias transistor (i'm sure one of the ones i've got will do fine), but how much "difference" realistically would having different chips (other than mpsa) make? What ones will/have you planned to use?
Aaron
Re: Since i'm interested in the minute details..
Will use the MJ15032/33 instead of the older 30/31. It has higher and more linear gain. Also made with different processes. May go for 34/35 but it depends. For OP devices, will go either 21193/4/5/6 or MLJ1302/3281 or even 4302 and 4281.
For inputs will try the MPSA 56 /06 if not the Krell specified ones.
Higher gain devices can be an issue sometimes but sonically I have found them superior in most if not all installations. They have less glare and electronic hash. Sound softer and mellower.
NUTTTR said:K-Amps,
What parts will you be using? I'm interested to know now 🙂
I'm using motorola 15030/31's for the drivers for the outputs, i'm yet to source a bias transistor (i'm sure one of the ones i've got will do fine), but how much "difference" realistically would having different chips (other than mpsa) make? What ones will/have you planned to use?
Aaron
Will use the MJ15032/33 instead of the older 30/31. It has higher and more linear gain. Also made with different processes. May go for 34/35 but it depends. For OP devices, will go either 21193/4/5/6 or MLJ1302/3281 or even 4302 and 4281.
For inputs will try the MPSA 56 /06 if not the Krell specified ones.
Higher gain devices can be an issue sometimes but sonically I have found them superior in most if not all installations. They have less glare and electronic hash. Sound softer and mellower.
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