Krell KSA 50 PCB

I saw the Rikens' length problem but it isn't too much of a problem - for such as small shortage I usually just bend both legs in a little under the resistor, with only 2mm or so increase per resistor. Otherwise just use Holco's, or perhaps the AudioNote Tantalums which I originally chose but ditched for just being too expensive.
 
There's always this method as well.

Good for heat. PITA to do al the bending though.

-b
 

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Upupa Epops said:
If you are aesthetic, go to the haberdashery and buy there glass beads or small glass tubes. These " devices " are ideal for making perfect distance over PCB. 😉

What about the skin effect and dielectric properties of glass near the resistor? 😉 The next thing we will hear is creating pseudo tone controls from glassbeads and polyester fibre....
 
MPSA42/92

Pinkmouse,

I haven't checked the voltage and current ratings, but assuming those are in line with the 35v rails, I'd bet they'll work.

I'm from the Medway towns myself, though I live in Santa Cruz, Ca now. I'm going to be flying in to visit with family in a month or so, is there anything I can bring/carry? If you have anything in mind you should prolly email me, rather than pollute this thread...

Stuart
 
Re: MPSA42/92

WorkingAtHome said:
Not sure if these are jokes about not tilting the resistors, or about bending the leads. The method used in the pic I posted was only used for resistors that get warm. Regulare mounting was used otherwise.

-b


Stuart Easson said:
Pinkmouse,

I haven't checked the voltage and current ratings, but assuming those are in line with the 35v rails, I'd bet they'll work.

I'm from the Medway towns myself, though I live in Santa Cruz, Ca now. I'm going to be flying in to visit with family in a month or so, is there anything I can bring/carry? If you have anything in mind you should prolly email me, rather than pollute this thread...

Stuart

Gents, I am sure they will work, however with the gain being lower than original components... I will stick with higher hfe components. Also marrying different types of components masks the coloration that occurs from using one type of component.... unless you like that kind of character.


😉
 
Since i'm interested in the minute details..

K-Amps,
What parts will you be using? I'm interested to know now 🙂
I'm using motorola 15030/31's for the drivers for the outputs, i'm yet to source a bias transistor (i'm sure one of the ones i've got will do fine), but how much "difference" realistically would having different chips (other than mpsa) make? What ones will/have you planned to use?
Aaron
 
Re: Since i'm interested in the minute details..

NUTTTR said:
K-Amps,
What parts will you be using? I'm interested to know now 🙂
I'm using motorola 15030/31's for the drivers for the outputs, i'm yet to source a bias transistor (i'm sure one of the ones i've got will do fine), but how much "difference" realistically would having different chips (other than mpsa) make? What ones will/have you planned to use?
Aaron


Will use the MJ15032/33 instead of the older 30/31. It has higher and more linear gain. Also made with different processes. May go for 34/35 but it depends. For OP devices, will go either 21193/4/5/6 or MLJ1302/3281 or even 4302 and 4281.

For inputs will try the MPSA 56 /06 if not the Krell specified ones.

Higher gain devices can be an issue sometimes but sonically I have found them superior in most if not all installations. They have less glare and electronic hash. Sound softer and mellower.