Repute said:
The boards are set for normal single ended phono inputs, as was the original. I will build mine this way, but might add a balanced option later, as I have a nice set of transformer input boards from an Amek studio mixer that need a good home.
As for the other queries, full pdf versions of the layout and BOM will be published as soon as the prototype has been built and checked, though you won't go far wrong by using the BOM on Jens' website to get going, and getting transistors from the pcb layout.
I have no current plans to produce an output board, as I have used hardwired T03s, and everyone's heatsinks and mounting details are different.
You might take a look if AMP has these style connectors instead of Wago.
Silver or Goldplated AMP's are very nice, AMP even has waterproofs.
Silver or Goldplated AMP's are very nice, AMP even has waterproofs.
Pavel,
If I could get all of that stuff on one board I might give it a go, but the free version of Eagle that I'm using for the layout has a maximum board size of 50x100mm.
Now if you wanted to buy me the full version...😉
Walter (GeWa),
If Pavel (Upopa) came up with a design it would be much better than anything I could attempt, his boards are excellent. But until then, you're all stuck with me!
Jacco,
Got a link for those connectors? If they have the same footprint then they should just drop in.
If I could get all of that stuff on one board I might give it a go, but the free version of Eagle that I'm using for the layout has a maximum board size of 50x100mm.
Now if you wanted to buy me the full version...😉
Walter (GeWa),
If Pavel (Upopa) came up with a design it would be much better than anything I could attempt, his boards are excellent. But until then, you're all stuck with me!
Jacco,
Got a link for those connectors? If they have the same footprint then they should just drop in.
If Pavel designed a board Dan (Mr. Krell) himself would buy a pair. 😉
I just don't know how practical it would be to make it a one-board solution since we are using different output devices.
Also since this design has massive output current the pwr supply capacitors and the output devices need really secure mounting and large diameter paths.
Which would be difficult on a single board solution.
I do think that the driver transistors could be added to the main board and bolted down to the mounting surface instead of having a separate heat sink. But since I'm not designing this PCB I will keep my opinions to my self.
I just don't know how practical it would be to make it a one-board solution since we are using different output devices.
Also since this design has massive output current the pwr supply capacitors and the output devices need really secure mounting and large diameter paths.
Which would be difficult on a single board solution.I do think that the driver transistors could be added to the main board and bolted down to the mounting surface instead of having a separate heat sink. But since I'm not designing this PCB I will keep my opinions to my self.
To Al and Troy : Any realy good design can be quite universal in all aspect, must be keeped some limitations. If you can, I may explain, how steps ( in my opinion 😎 ) in desigh is good to make.
Pavel
I would love for you to share your knowledge on pcb manufacture, but I think it is such an important subject that it probably deserves it's own thread, rather than being buried here in amongst 1500 other posts.
So, please yes, but in a new thread! 🙂
I would love for you to share your knowledge on pcb manufacture, but I think it is such an important subject that it probably deserves it's own thread, rather than being buried here in amongst 1500 other posts.
So, please yes, but in a new thread! 🙂
pinkmouse said:
It seems the "student license" is available for non-profit hobbiests. Read more here....
http://www.cadsoft.de/nonprofit.htm
I can't think of a high end manufacturer of solid state amps thats at all serious about what they build and sell that would make it an all one piece board. That makes any later upgrades just about impossible unless you want to do a tack job on the back of the board. Even Krell had seperate boards for input, driver and output stages in the KSA designs. This made it more flexible to use the same circuitry in both mono and stereo models. Pass used modular concept in their amps top allow for upgrading down the road. This is fine perhaps for the likes of QSC and Crown but not in the high end world.
Mark
Also larger PCB's reduce the flexibility of installation. I reckon they are good for automated manufacturing but for DIY, smaller distributed boards have their advantages.
If anyone is interested in buying my Krell KSA 50 boards I will be posting them all on the trading post for sale soon. I thought I would give the original thread followers a chance to get them first, assuming anyone has actually built a succesful amp from these as yet. 🙂
Reason for selling; My Brain just cramps when I attempt to follow this thread anymore is it just me or is it stuffed with endless natter about the cost of lettuce in the Congo? No hard feelings, just lost interest back at page gazillion and four.
Regards
Anthony
Reason for selling; My Brain just cramps when I attempt to follow this thread anymore is it just me or is it stuffed with endless natter about the cost of lettuce in the Congo? No hard feelings, just lost interest back at page gazillion and four.
Regards
Anthony
Anthony, don't give up so easily!
The reason we have all just been meandering is that the amp works really well with the boards you have and the basic parts list from Jens' site. The only issue is that the driver and bias trannies need to be mounted on a bigger or the main heatsink.
Go on- build at least one before you sell the rest! 🙂
The reason we have all just been meandering is that the amp works really well with the boards you have and the basic parts list from Jens' site. The only issue is that the driver and bias trannies need to be mounted on a bigger or the main heatsink.
Go on- build at least one before you sell the rest! 🙂
To throw in the towel is a waste at this point! You will be missing out on a very good amp and a very fun and worthwhile project.
Just mount the drivers and bias device on the main heatsinks and you'll be fine, also foget the stupid current limiting stuff. Mine has been up and running for over a month now. Oh also, forget the hundred plus pages here,just forllow Jan's original list and drawings......... Its very simple really ole chap😎 .
Mark
Just mount the drivers and bias device on the main heatsinks and you'll be fine, also foget the stupid current limiting stuff. Mine has been up and running for over a month now. Oh also, forget the hundred plus pages here,just forllow Jan's original list and drawings......... Its very simple really ole chap😎 .
Mark
Maybe it's time to place some info on the wiki page to clear some things up. Some guidelines to built the amp. Components that can be left out. Correct values and wattage of the resistors on the output board. I think this can beef up the confidence for some of us.
The Wiki Page
The Wiki Page
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:
I know Mark, I agree, I thought this was going to be a nice easy striaght forward project, but you try picking the jewels from the flaxom on this thread.
Regards
Anthony
Get stuck in guys, as I said earlier I don't have much time to help out what with running around keeping an eye on things, building and designing stuff, and renovating my house, but I will keep an eye on your progress.
If you just want to copy and paste technical posts for now, we can sub-edit it later. 😉
If you just want to copy and paste technical posts for now, we can sub-edit it later. 😉