Mark, Pass and Krell make it from different reason : Krell for ( today's ) considerable complicity - one PCB should be very large and Pass for neverending bussines 😀. Personally I don't like constructions, which their author must upgrade and also I don't like any " postgluing " - rather I make quite new machine. If I can sometimes in future upgrade connection, I make it as modul with connectors.
Really, all you need to do is follow Jans list and schematic. It will work just fine. Be sure to pay close attention to his board corrections. You will need to cut and jumper a few traces. This is ALL on Jans site!! You may also wanna e-mail K-Amps to get his spread sheet. Its also very helpful when it comes time to bias the thing up. Just this stiff is all you need. Any further questions please post them here and someone will assist you. really though, you needen't even look here except to tell us how nice the amp works and such or in an emergency.
Mark
Perhaps you have lots o time on your hands. I personally like to make small modifications to my stuff over time. Its fun to hear the differences... or not. As for Pass and the rest its just a practical matter for them and for anyone who buys their equipment to be able to upgrade to present production standards. In the Pass stuff the UGS modules have gone through at least 4 revisions each resulting in better sounding and more stable amplifier. The earlier amps can get this upgrade if they want to. Same with Krell who offers upgrades to current amp circuits if you own an older amplifier of theirs.
In my buisness there would be no working Dolby Digital cinema sound systems were it not an upgradable system! Since parts have becomne obsolete its been very necessaey for Dolby to re-design major sections and produce entirely new PCBs in order to keep the equipment operating and to continue manufacture of the units. In the marketing world this is a very wise strategy.... as your 10K plus amp will not become obsolete and un-repairable.
That wouod be sad and we should give these companies credit for not allowing this to happen.........
Mark
Me thinks it has been common practice for pro audio companies to do upgrades on their models at half-life time for +20, whether MKII or Model *.5
Same as the militaries, or any other part of industry, and customers appreciate it.
For Krell, Pass , and others, it is not an art, it is how they make money.
Nelson Pass often enough states that part of his succes is because he masters the art of business, and i love the candid way he expresses it.
Krell customers will be more pleased when they can bring their product to the dealer after 5 and have a upgrade installed that will make it up to date with the latest edition, instead of having to trade in the old model for the new king on the hill.
For us diy-runts modular building makes it easy to replace parts after a mishap, for tweaking or experimenting, or have more flexibility in constructing.
I agree with Pavel that a 1-board design looks flashy and has the least connections.
Practical it is not, and contemporary connectors are a big step up the ladder.
I dont think most of us would feel pleased having to need complete sets of spare boards or refabricate the entire board if we were to make mods on our diy products.
The thing i love about my Chevy is that i can easilly take off any part and replace it with a new one or a better component, often at little cost.
Making it better is part of the enjoyment, doing it myself the other.
One reason for not desiring a Tifosi car, having to bring it to a pocket-filler every time would seriously tick me off.
I can not imagine anyone here enjoying "no serviceable parts inside" stickers.
If so, please put a "Hit my car and i'll have to buy a New One" sticker on your vehicle and i'll be happy to make contact.
How much is Lettuce in the Congo ?
Same as the militaries, or any other part of industry, and customers appreciate it.
For Krell, Pass , and others, it is not an art, it is how they make money.
Nelson Pass often enough states that part of his succes is because he masters the art of business, and i love the candid way he expresses it.
Krell customers will be more pleased when they can bring their product to the dealer after 5 and have a upgrade installed that will make it up to date with the latest edition, instead of having to trade in the old model for the new king on the hill.
For us diy-runts modular building makes it easy to replace parts after a mishap, for tweaking or experimenting, or have more flexibility in constructing.
I agree with Pavel that a 1-board design looks flashy and has the least connections.
Practical it is not, and contemporary connectors are a big step up the ladder.
I dont think most of us would feel pleased having to need complete sets of spare boards or refabricate the entire board if we were to make mods on our diy products.
The thing i love about my Chevy is that i can easilly take off any part and replace it with a new one or a better component, often at little cost.
Making it better is part of the enjoyment, doing it myself the other.
One reason for not desiring a Tifosi car, having to bring it to a pocket-filler every time would seriously tick me off.
I can not imagine anyone here enjoying "no serviceable parts inside" stickers.
If so, please put a "Hit my car and i'll have to buy a New One" sticker on your vehicle and i'll be happy to make contact.
How much is Lettuce in the Congo ?
Ok, folks I got a quote.
For a quantity of 50, each board, (includes driver board, scored, if split required), to make one channel, the price will be £8 plus delivery. This is PTH on 2oz copper, 1.6mm thick FR4, with a black soldermask and yellow silkscreen, (I couldn't get pink! 😉 ).
If anyone can do significantly better than this, I am quite prepared to hand over the layouts to them so we can get a better price for the group.
Opinions?
For a quantity of 50, each board, (includes driver board, scored, if split required), to make one channel, the price will be £8 plus delivery. This is PTH on 2oz copper, 1.6mm thick FR4, with a black soldermask and yellow silkscreen, (I couldn't get pink! 😉 ).
If anyone can do significantly better than this, I am quite prepared to hand over the layouts to them so we can get a better price for the group.
Opinions?
Well for one I'm looking forward to this new design,much better spaced out and designed,the first krell clone pcb although very good its the 0.5W resistors I like to use that have drove me mad, the resistor leads all stressed and bent back. The problem I have is that I built the boards up with cheap standard parts to get this project off the ground, impressed with the sound though, cymbals sound sh17e. So changing components is a real pain trying to fit 'dales' and the mistake with the pots which we all missed so I can see why some people have had enough. Can't see what the rush was to get the first boards into production though.
I have tried to keep to the original specs its a good project,building an aleph X & 5 next it will be good to compare them.
Class A amps luv em'
I have tried to keep to the original specs its a good project,building an aleph X & 5 next it will be good to compare them.
Class A amps luv em'
First of all I would like to apologize. The Wiki was created just before Easter and I forgot all about it. I will work on documentation this week.
Please feel free to relentlessly and ruthlessly harass me until it is done. Otherwise I will forget again...
Secondly and MOST importantly:
Jan’s design was very good. Some people have finished it and it does work. KEEP IN MIND that he designed his boards to be a single sided board that people could make themselves.
Al is making a new board for two reasons that I am aware of. First, Jan’s boards sold out. Secondly he went double sided with the full intention of manufactured PCB's.
I have 3 sets of boards as does a friend of mine. We will be building/tuning a 2 channel version first then building each a 3 channel version. I have been procrastinating because I haven't built an amp in many years and wanted someone more recent to complete one. Now that that has happened, I will finish mine and document the process for others who may be nervous.
It is a simple project, but to those of us who are out of practice it is a bit nerve racking. I will try to create some assembly documentation.
Please feel free to relentlessly and ruthlessly harass me until it is done. Otherwise I will forget again...
Secondly and MOST importantly:
Jan’s design was very good. Some people have finished it and it does work. KEEP IN MIND that he designed his boards to be a single sided board that people could make themselves.
Al is making a new board for two reasons that I am aware of. First, Jan’s boards sold out. Secondly he went double sided with the full intention of manufactured PCB's.
I have 3 sets of boards as does a friend of mine. We will be building/tuning a 2 channel version first then building each a 3 channel version. I have been procrastinating because I haven't built an amp in many years and wanted someone more recent to complete one. Now that that has happened, I will finish mine and document the process for others who may be nervous.
It is a simple project, but to those of us who are out of practice it is a bit nerve racking. I will try to create some assembly documentation.
pinkmouse
ceck this link...
http://www.mdsrl.it/catalog/default.php/cPath/28/language/en
this is an italian productor...
bye
ceck this link...
http://www.mdsrl.it/catalog/default.php/cPath/28/language/en
this is an italian productor...
bye
Troy used Sunstone Circuits for the previous set of boards. I think everyone was very pleased with them:
http://www.pcbpro.com/pcb-quote.php?src=sunstone
Try emailing Julie: jsalvadore<at>sunstonecircuits<dot>com for a quote. She will need the Gerber files.
Regards,
Rep
If you want, you can email me the info and I can request a quote.
repute<at>hotmail<dot>com
http://www.pcbpro.com/pcb-quote.php?src=sunstone
Try emailing Julie: jsalvadore<at>sunstonecircuits<dot>com for a quote. She will need the Gerber files.
Regards,
Rep
If you want, you can email me the info and I can request a quote.
repute<at>hotmail<dot>com
Just for the record 😉
All physical component sizes are made with reference to good/high quality components, that can be purchaced from e.g. RS Components (my biggest supplier) 😉
All physical component sizes are made with reference to good/high quality components, that can be purchaced from e.g. RS Components (my biggest supplier) 😉
rabstg said:
Not quite! 🙂
The main reason I did my design was to see if I could, as a learning experience. However, it was always in the back of my mind that others might want boards, and as Jan's had sold out, it would give late-comers a second oportunity to have a go.
Thanks guys for the alternative suppliers, I'm just a bit pressed for time to chase things up. In fact, if someone wants to take over the admin for the GB it would be greatly appreciated.
I will sort out gerbers and stuff to post here over the next few days for everyone to have a look at. The first toner transfer board is nearly ready to populate, I just need to drill a few more holes and fire up the soldering iron.
If Troy is able to, I nominate him to drive the 2nd group buy!
Pink, have any pics of your current board progress?
Thanks!
Rep
Pink, have any pics of your current board progress?
Thanks!
Rep
Is it still possible to suggest some changes for the board.
Just had a look at the wiki page and there is still nothing there.
Troy, did you forgot it again???
Cheers
Just had a look at the wiki page and there is still nothing there.
Troy, did you forgot it again???
Cheers
On connector X2: is it possible to swap the traces going to pin 2 and 3.
If needed move R124 more to the left. In this case the (new) trace coming from pin 3 can go strait (almost) down to R130.
Trace from R124 to pin 2 will become a little bit shorter.
Still looking at R102 if there's a chance to move him in such a way that the trace from R130 doesn't have to make that weird curve.
Edit: By rotating C102 and C103 180° it becomes possible to use one 470µF non-polarized BG cap instead of two 1000µF cap's. (the series trace goes to both outside pins) Hope this is clear?
Just some ideas.
If needed move R124 more to the left. In this case the (new) trace coming from pin 3 can go strait (almost) down to R130.
Trace from R124 to pin 2 will become a little bit shorter.
Still looking at R102 if there's a chance to move him in such a way that the trace from R130 doesn't have to make that weird curve.
Edit: By rotating C102 and C103 180° it becomes possible to use one 470µF non-polarized BG cap instead of two 1000µF cap's. (the series trace goes to both outside pins) Hope this is clear?
Just some ideas.
GeWa said:
I see stuff there... Anyone else?
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Building+guide
i've edited
I've started to build mine, have a lot of questions, and have put them into the wiki. please look and review, fill in answers if you know.
I've started to build mine, have a lot of questions, and have put them into the wiki. please look and review, fill in answers if you know.
