Anyway, after looking around a little i've found
http://au.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3278025&N=401
it's 27 ohm, but it's either 27 ohm or 22ohm, i cannot find any 25 ohm resistors (i may be looking in the wrong place though!) in 2w or above... Can someone advise if that's ok? It's cheap (very) so kinda appeals
Aaron
http://au.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3278025&N=401
it's 27 ohm, but it's either 27 ohm or 22ohm, i cannot find any 25 ohm resistors (i may be looking in the wrong place though!) in 2w or above... Can someone advise if that's ok? It's cheap (very) so kinda appeals
Aaron
Coulomb said:
Hello Aaron, it's a line Maxwell Smart used when ever he got caught by Chaos from the TV series "Get Smart"
Anthony
Of course!!!
I love that show!
Got a few copies myself "Would you believe at this very moment there are 50 police cars and 100 police surrounding the building"..."no?"..."how about 2 cars and 4 police officers?"
Classic!
I think i'm going to have to go the 27ohm... it's too hard to get anything else that matches at the right price - someone let me know if i shouldn't before i order tomorrow!!
Aaron
P.S. Has anyone fired up the boards yet to decide if we need a 39pf cap or a 330pf cap? What values will do? 33pf? Someone advised not using ceramics, is there a particular reason? (i know quality of some is shoddy and they go and leak lots of current sometimes... I found polystyrene ones... are they ok?)
27ohms is fine...
The 'exact' value of the driver emitter resistors is not critical, well...unless, that is, you've decided on barely adequate heatsinks for your drivers in which case a little higher value will keep your transistors alive a little longer...me, I'm going for way too much heatsinking...
Stuart
The 'exact' value of the driver emitter resistors is not critical, well...unless, that is, you've decided on barely adequate heatsinks for your drivers in which case a little higher value will keep your transistors alive a little longer...me, I'm going for way too much heatsinking...
Stuart
Re: 27ohms is fine...
You should know me better than that!
I'm still stuck on what heatsinking to use... i was tempted to extend the wiring so it can go on the main heatsink, but then i thought i'd better try and avoid as much wiring as possible to keep things neat...
However i've found some 12c/w ones that fit nice and easily, but i am doubting this will be enough...
Have you calculated how much they will be burning off in heat?
I'm trying to get a "final" parts order together and the farnell website is giving me headaches! Arrrggghhh Better go now, it's 3.30am!
Stuart Easson said:
You should know me better than that!
I'm still stuck on what heatsinking to use... i was tempted to extend the wiring so it can go on the main heatsink, but then i thought i'd better try and avoid as much wiring as possible to keep things neat...
However i've found some 12c/w ones that fit nice and easily, but i am doubting this will be enough...
Have you calculated how much they will be burning off in heat?
I'm trying to get a "final" parts order together and the farnell website is giving me headaches! Arrrggghhh Better go now, it's 3.30am!
putting case together
Recently went to the surplus store. Case needs top and front panels, but only cost $5.00. Will look nice with some wood side panels. Going to use vertical heat tunnel like the original.
I was going to use 3 TO3 output devices per rail but I see that I have enough room for 4...hmm.....
pic attached
Recently went to the surplus store. Case needs top and front panels, but only cost $5.00. Will look nice with some wood side panels. Going to use vertical heat tunnel like the original.
I was going to use 3 TO3 output devices per rail but I see that I have enough room for 4...hmm.....
pic attached
Attachments
Hi All-
And still no reports of damaged/lost boards?
I ordered 20 "extra" boards(10 sets) for lost or damaged shipments. Of those 10 sets, we have had 4 latecomers order/pay for sets so I am down to 6 sets.
I need to know if anyone has any issues with their boards or if I can release these final sets.
Another issue. The final costs of the boards and this GB.. I priced the boards to cover the paypal fees, Jan's set and the PCB cost.
I padded the project to ensure there was ~$100 left to "donate" to the forum so we ALL could contribute to this excellent site.
Well, the boards were $53 dollars higher that expected due to the shipping cost from the factory to me(I'm a moron and didn't factor that in).
Also shipping in the US was $6 and some change each, and out of the US was between $8 and in one case $12.
So after tallying the numbers, this GB is in the red.. But wait!!
Because I ordered a few extra sets in case of shipping issues, I will be selling them off and that will bring the project back in the black and we should be close to the $100 donation to the forum.. Any difference "should hopefully" be minor.
I believe in being up front an honest. I did this GB in the spirit of DIY and to enable all of us to make a great amp at a reasonable price.
I thank JAN so VERY much for designing the boards and helping with the manufacturing issues!! He is a true professional and I am proud to be building “his” Krell klone.
Thank you all for being polite. It was a pleasure to work with all of you.
Now lets build!! And photograph!!
And still no reports of damaged/lost boards?
I ordered 20 "extra" boards(10 sets) for lost or damaged shipments. Of those 10 sets, we have had 4 latecomers order/pay for sets so I am down to 6 sets.
I need to know if anyone has any issues with their boards or if I can release these final sets.
Another issue. The final costs of the boards and this GB.. I priced the boards to cover the paypal fees, Jan's set and the PCB cost.
I padded the project to ensure there was ~$100 left to "donate" to the forum so we ALL could contribute to this excellent site.
Well, the boards were $53 dollars higher that expected due to the shipping cost from the factory to me(I'm a moron and didn't factor that in).
Also shipping in the US was $6 and some change each, and out of the US was between $8 and in one case $12.
So after tallying the numbers, this GB is in the red.. But wait!!
Because I ordered a few extra sets in case of shipping issues, I will be selling them off and that will bring the project back in the black and we should be close to the $100 donation to the forum.. Any difference "should hopefully" be minor.
I believe in being up front an honest. I did this GB in the spirit of DIY and to enable all of us to make a great amp at a reasonable price.
I thank JAN so VERY much for designing the boards and helping with the manufacturing issues!! He is a true professional and I am proud to be building “his” Krell klone.
Thank you all for being polite. It was a pleasure to work with all of you.
Now lets build!! And photograph!!
Troy:
Thanks for all your efforts in this project, and I'm sure that we all hope that the bottom line gets black again
Please note that it was bra who started this thread (and project) and posted the schematics and parts list etc., so he is the one to thanks
I have just been happy to be of some help in cloning this lovely amp
Thanks to all that has participated with updated details etc., and I think we all are looking forward to see the first pictures of some working Krell-Clone amps
Thanks for all your efforts in this project, and I'm sure that we all hope that the bottom line gets black again
Please note that it was bra who started this thread (and project) and posted the schematics and parts list etc., so he is the one to thanks
I have just been happy to be of some help in cloning this lovely amp
Thanks to all that has participated with updated details etc., and I think we all are looking forward to see the first pictures of some working Krell-Clone amps
pinkmouse said:Well done, when can we expect pics?
I'm currently sulking 'cos I lost the ebay auction for some ideal heatsinks. My phone rang at the wrong time, and I typed the wrong amount into the bid window...
Well serves you right for Poaching
Of course, a real pro like myself keeps two windows open, one with my bid amount entered and just waiting for the Submit command, that is one step past Continue page, and the other on the item listing page which I keep refresshing every few seconds.
Regards
Anthony
gonna let you in on a secret...
real ebay bidding pros use auction sniper (www.auctionsniper.com) and don't ponce around actually watching the auction like it's TV...if you are gonna snipe do it with a real gun...
Stuart
real ebay bidding pros use auction sniper (www.auctionsniper.com) and don't ponce around actually watching the auction like it's TV...if you are gonna snipe do it with a real gun...
Stuart