pinkmouse said:Digikey have the 25R 2w jobbies, P/N WNC25RFETR-ND
Min order... 1000 🙁
But no worries I found some others.
Digi-Key Part Number BC27W-2CT-ND
Manufacturer Part Number 5083NW27R00J12AFXBC
Description RES 27 OHM METAL FILM 2W 5%
Quantity Available 2950
Now for those 820's.........

Mouser
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=206341&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=195375&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=213969&e_categoryid=346&e_pcodeid=71002
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=358118&e_categoryid=346&e_pcodeid=02703
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=206341&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=195375&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=213969&e_categoryid=346&e_pcodeid=71002
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=358118&e_categoryid=346&e_pcodeid=02703
Thank you for placing an order with Digi-Key.
Index Quantity Part Number Description Customer Reference Backorder Quantity Unit Price
USD Extended Price
USD
1 200 BC27W-2CT-ND RES 27 OHM METAL FILM 2W 5% 0 0.18060 $36.12
2 200 P820CACT-ND RES METAL FILM 820 OHM 1/4W 1% 0 0.06525 $13.05
Subtotal $49.17
Handling $0.00
Shipping unknown
Sales Tax $0.00
Total unknown
Index Quantity Part Number Description Customer Reference Backorder Quantity Unit Price
USD Extended Price
USD
1 200 BC27W-2CT-ND RES 27 OHM METAL FILM 2W 5% 0 0.18060 $36.12
2 200 P820CACT-ND RES METAL FILM 820 OHM 1/4W 1% 0 0.06525 $13.05
Subtotal $49.17
Handling $0.00
Shipping unknown
Sales Tax $0.00
Total unknown
still4given said:Mouser
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=206341&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=195375&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=213969&e_categoryid=346&e_pcodeid=71002
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=358118&e_categoryid=346&e_pcodeid=02703
I saw those but I was "trying" to stay with the "Dale RN60D" series. But alais it was not possible so I went with 1% from Digi-key
partsconnexion.com has 820R Holco's for $0.45each
I am also sending a note to a retailer on ebay that sells Dale resistors to see if he has any 820's available.
~Brad
EDIT: Sorry missed the post about your purchase 😱 Nice find everyone!
I am also sending a note to a retailer on ebay that sells Dale resistors to see if he has any 820's available.
~Brad
EDIT: Sorry missed the post about your purchase 😱 Nice find everyone!
K-amps said:who knows krell probably used 25ohms becuase perhaps they got a steady and cheap supply line
The ones i used are 22R, 3 watt, 2% metaloxides.
Works fine.
Damn, i am one of the tiny variac people.
jacco vermeulen said:Damn, i am one of the tiny variac people.
I've just got big bulbs...
Jacco, so you're up and running? What do you think of it so far?
pinkmouse said:
I've just got big bulbs...
Jacco, so you're up and running? What do you think of it so far?
pinkmouse
I was thinking about useing my Bulbs, but I don't like the idea of connecting electrodes to them😱
allan
ps I think it's against the Geneva convension

jacco vermeulen said:
.
Damn, i am one of the tiny variac people.
pinkmouse said:
I've just got big bulbs...
Tsk Tsk boys, lets keep it civil, there are minors on the thread.
😉
still4given said:
...... I don't ever use it wihout the ligh bulb in series anymore.
Blessings, Terry
Terry, thats probably one of the best things you can do while playing with amplifiers, variacs alone will not protect as well as a bulb, where else will you get a device for less than a buck that lets you test the amplifier at near full rail voltages, and then continuously varies the voltage based on current draw and saves you $$$ project from becoming an expensive paper weight.
K-amps said:
Terry, thats probably one of the best things you can do while playing with amplifiers, variacs alone will not protect as well as a bulb, where else will you get a device for less than a buck that lets you test the amplifier at near full rail voltages, and then continuously varies the voltage based on current draw and saves you $$$ project from becoming an expensive paper weight.
Hi K,
As a matter of fact, I believe you are one of the guys who told me about it. I made it dual purpose. I used a regular dual wall plug and hooked on up to run in series with the mains and hooked up the other outlet in parallel so I could use the bulb to drain filter caps.. It's been very handy. I've heard that you can control how much current can pass by selecting different wattage bulbs but I never learned how to figure that.
Blessings, Terry
I guess the limitation is it's use in class-A amplifiers. It is usually practical to test the amplifier prior to biasing it class-A because the current draw would be too much for a bulb to keep it to near rail voltages. A class-AB amp does not have this issue as much as a pure class-A amplifier does.
I am not certain and my calcs may be off, but if you wanted to run your Krell close full class-A at 95% rails, you would need a bulb that would not light up despite having about 2.5 amps (120v mains) flowing through it. Not knowing the co-efficients of the filaments involved, I'd guesstimate that to be a 1000w plus lamp at the least.
Me, I have used trial and error along with an amp meter to determine that... for 95% of my needs, a 100w bulb works fine.
cheers,
-Arif
I am not certain and my calcs may be off, but if you wanted to run your Krell close full class-A at 95% rails, you would need a bulb that would not light up despite having about 2.5 amps (120v mains) flowing through it. Not knowing the co-efficients of the filaments involved, I'd guesstimate that to be a 1000w plus lamp at the least.

Me, I have used trial and error along with an amp meter to determine that... for 95% of my needs, a 100w bulb works fine.
cheers,
-Arif
K-amps said:I guess the limitation is it's use in class-A amplifiers. It is usually practical to test the amplifier prior to biasing it class-A because the current draw would be too much for a bulb to keep it to near rail voltages. A class-AB amp does not have this issue as much as a pure class-A amplifier does.
I am not certain and my calcs may be off, but if you wanted to run your Krell close full class-A at 95% rails, you would need a bulb that would not light up despite having about 2.5 amps (120v mains) flowing through it. Not knowing the co-efficients of the filaments involved, I'd guesstimate that to be a 1000w plus lamp at the least.![]()
Me, I have used trial and error along with an amp meter to determine that... for 95% of my needs, a 100w bulb works fine.
cheers,
-Arif
Yes, for the class A amps I have always had to take the bulb out of the circuit when bringing up the bias. It is helpful to determine which way to turn the pot for raising/lowering the bias. I've been using a 150watt bulb but I may lower it if that will allow less current to pass. I have burned up a couple of componants using the 150watt bulb.
Blessings, Terry
ryssen said:Should I isolate the input RCA´s from the chassis,how have you done?
Shoulder washers.
http://www.apexjr.com/images/RCASPEAKERJACKS.jpg
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